Oh, btw, all of my XJ's and MJ's have always still had their cats installed. Just gutted and with a straight pipe running through the center.

And somehow, they still passed emissions sniffer tests as well as plug in tests. And ran great.

 

I don't see where the OP mentions anything about an O2 sensor, if that's gone too, well...

 

Did you read the post? He did not state it like that.

 

Yes, he did.

GTFO.

 

Okay some big questions for you:

1. What did you do in the rebuild?
2. Did you set timing? Which directions were followed?
3. Did you change all of those sensors during your rebuild or have you been troubleshooting with your wallet instead of your brain? Are they Mopar sensors or Duralast?
4. Is the vacuum hose to the MAP intact?


As mentioned discussion of cat removal is banned on this site. You can find it listed in the rules, and a sticky at the top of the OEM Tech section. When you get your Jeep running again consider a high flow cat from performance-curve.com, dude's here on the forum and it's only like $35 to be compliant with environmental legislation and not be a complete douchebag to everyone breathing your exhaust.

 

The only thing I know for sure about them is that there was a really bad problem with ****heads running around with saws and stealing them five or six years ago. They appear to be a cash-cow for various, nefarious entities we have to put up with and cars in my experience designed to have them run like smashed turd without them.

 

not tryna thread jack but since you recently rebuilt your engine I will ask....


what are the torq specs on the motor I mainly need the following


main caps
rods
head

 

people will buy them cause the old ones actually contain small amounts of platinum and gold(not 100% on the gold but im sure about the platinum) now the newer cats may not

 

GOOGLE

 

^^^ why you gotta be a douche?


the guys just did it and its a heluva lot easier for me to ask some one who has recently done it than it is to dig through the trash you get when web searching stuff like this

 

I know why they were being stolen. We even had one guy run over in a mall parking lot because he was under a car and the lady exited the mall, entered her vehicle, started it up and took off and felt a big WHUMP and this guy hollerin'.

Good...

Good.

 

Like Salad says, I'd check the MAP tube. Easy enough! ;There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it won't run right.

 

Why you gotta be lazy?

Get a damn FSM.





And you guys are all throwing out illogical options and opinions.



First things first....are you 100% positive that you put all of the connecting rod and main caps on the correct direction?


If not sure, but think so, skip to next step.

Is distributor timed to TDC number 1 correctly, or is it off by 1 tooth? That would be the ONLY thing that could cause this.


If this is right, THEN check all sensors and vacuum tubes.

I'd that is all good, then you will need to put a ratchet on the harmonic balancer bolt and see how easy it turns by hand with the trans in neutral and ebrake on or wheels chocked, If it turns hard, time to pull the oil pan, replace all rod and main bearings, and install the caps correctly.


The reason for this order is simple...you just rebuilt the engine, so the distributor was obviously removed. Since that's the case, you could very easily have screwed up the indexing and not ever have known it.

 

^^^ Like he said. FSM should be mandatory.

 

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html