Downinthewell

Looked through a lot of the threads, and the 101 thread for front end suspension component replacement/installation tips - but wanted to know if there was a recommended/preferred order to perform these replacements in (if addressing all at once). '00 cherokee sport 4wd, basic OME lift i did two years back (2" i believe, nothing serious)

Plan to do Upper/Lower control arms, Tie Rods, Sway Bar and Sway bar links, Upper and Lower Ball joints - any thoughts or tricks that might come in handy as to when to address each so as to take advantage of something being out of place/uninstalled allowing better reach or accessibility? Just attack it piece by piece? one entire side at a time? just looking for best advice to avoid any redundancies

Happy to take links to already established threads that discuss this - haven't seen it yet

Thanks!

RockyMtn96XJ

It shouldnt be too bad unless you are taking out the track bar. That was a pain to get back in because you have to shift the axle side to side... up and down.... I used ratchet straps to help "pull" it into place. All your other stuff should be able to be replaced whenever you want. The control arms might give some headache, but just try to remove and install the lowers at the same time. then uppers. or maybe visa versa is easier, doing top first... i cant remember to be exact.

Remember to make sure your steering wheel is perfectly centered before you remove things or your steering wheel might be turned sideways as you drive straight down the road after you put it together. An alignment will prolly be necessary also.

SimpleDad

I took everything off from front to back so it was easy to get to the upper control arms, then worked my way back out.

Those upper control arms might be red loctite'd. There was no way I was going to get mine off. I ended up having to get a torch and heating them up. They came right off with heat. If you are replacing the upper control arm bushing on the axel side, well, god bless brother, because that is a miserable experience. Watch some Youtube videos of that process. It was probably most frustrating experience working on a vehicle I have ever had. Had to slowly drill out the bushing material. But my XJ handles really nice now it's worth it.

If you are doing quick release sway bar end links that's another pain trying to get the original mounting posts pressed out. I ended up having to get a ball joint press to push them out but it was still a pain (no level parallel surface on the axel for the press). I broke two cheap HF pullers prior to going the press route.

Are you doing the upgraded tie rods? That is nice simple upgrade to do since you are already planning on replacing them. 2 MOOG ES3096L, 1 MOOG DS1312, 2 MOOG ES2079S, 1 MOOG DS1238. Don't forget a new steering damper too. I went with the $20 Monroe off Rock Auto. I also replaced the boot on the DS1312 with a urethane one since it didn't come attached to the unit. I just went to Oriellys showed them the one that came with the DS1312 and asked for a urethane match.

I did a Metal Cloak track bar that required drilling the holes out. I had a heck of a time getting that done too, went through 3 bits. I would recommend going another route even though I do like the final results. It plus Metal Cloak control arms are a pretty nice ride. If I could have afforded OME springs/shocks instead of Zones springs/Rancho shocks I bet it would be even better but as is my XJ is riding surprisingly great (even with 10ply tires).

I held off doing the ball joints/axel u-joints because the lift burnt me out but they don't really touch on anything that impacts the rest of what you are doing.

Edit: Like RockyMtn96XJ said you are going to want to factor in the price of an alignment as well.

RockyMtn96XJ

I bought one $18 Diablo carbide sawz-all blade to get some of my control arm bolts out. Was able to slide the blade in there and it took care of the bolts in about 3 minutes each. Only minor scratches to the inside of the mount.

awg

The UCA bolts 100% need heat to get them off, my butane torch did it easily. I felt stupid for struggling with them, and lost a 15mm impact socket down into the frame, and only recently recovered it

To get the UCA axles bushes out, same tool, butane torch, burn the ****ers out. Takes a fair while and you have to be careful

I replaced mine with poly, which leaves the outer metal shell in place. Otherwise, to need to very carefully use a hacksaw to make a slight groove, then punch or chisel them out

In my opinion, the trackbar must be done, it has huge force on it that chews the bush, and the bolt hole can get wallowed. I also use a poly bush from Rock Auto there

One issue with these poly bushes, is you kind of need a spare, as a standard one wont go in when steel sleeves are/are no removed

Poly bushes can split apart

Downinthewell

Ok i am doing the track bar as well (forgot to include in initial list) - in your experience would it be best to save that til last/pull first so everything is already aligned to avoid having to do the axel shimmy - or is that inevitable once the track back comes off? I went with dorman tie rod ends from rock auto - i think a bit of an upgrade from OEM, should be good as i don't do a significant amount of recreational off road driving, but it must be mountain road capable for work. Gonna get to work this weekend i believe, will try and keep my wits about me on these Upper Control Arms/bushings

Thank you for all the feedback - definitely falling asleep to a youtube playlist of people pulling these things to let it sink into my bones.

awg

when doing the trackbar, the vehicles wheels should definitely be on the ground, in this instance it is easy to R&R

If the wheels are off the ground, it can displace sideways and be a ***** to get back in

If it does displace, using a jack under some part of the suspension (i forget where) helps

also, my special trick for drawing items together (or apart), make a loop from (telco or climbing rope), twist this loop with a spanner, ancient tech, saved my backside a few times

RockyMtn96XJ

Yeap good info awg. I didn't plan well when I did mine, just started tearing things off and putting things on, hence the pain.

Downinthewell

Passenger side upper bushing came out and went in with zero issues or difficulty - literally just popped out, and popped the new one in by hand.

Drivers side - took me all day - insane amount of effort to get this thing out - and had a really tough time getting the new axle side bushing started, and i think i may have bottomed out the press and over pressed the bushing. does this look toast? does it need to come out and replaced? this thing is a literal nightmare ​​​​​​​

awg

I cant quite tell from the pics

I do believe the original items in mine, one had a displacement from the housing that was offset... but I dont think it was that much, maybe 1/4", but yours looks like ~1/2" ??

solid poly no sleeve items went in so I cant check

One idea is to type "Jeep Cherokee XJ LCA bush" or similar into Google, images, and scroll through some pics

Actually I could check my spare XJ , it would have original LCA

SimpleDad

I don't think you should be able to pop the passenger side in by hand. The bushing is what the control arm mounts to so you can't have the bushing move or else you will have your axel 'floating' if the bushing isn't firmly held to the axel. Yes you have three other control arms holding the axel but IDK I wouldn't be comfortable with that. I diffinate had to press mine in, and put something in-between the space in the bracket to prevent it from getting collapsed. Has it been replaced before and the previous job just not pressed it in completely and now you are assuming that is how it should be? I'd take a look at other XJs and how far in they are pressed. I can post a picture of mine later if needed.

The driver side looks like mine, it gets pressed in to that lip on the bushing housing. Don't think you can over press it unless you deform the inner sleeve or something.

Downinthewell

I will say passenger side went in and out suspiciously smooth, not at all what the driver side took - it looks flush against the mount, i will likely pop that arm off and take another look before torquing it down. Not sure if it's been replaced before, bushings weren't in terrible shape so it is possible it had been replaced prior to me owning, and wasn't pressed properly. (pic of removed passenger side axle bushing below)

i think it may be that the sleeve compressed a bit? or possible that the pressing plate on the ball joint press had nestled slightly into the receiving end of the bushing mount - i definitely cranked it down hard with a little breaker bar before i realized it wasn't inching any further, and i feel like the plate may have been pressing up against the sleeve rather than just the mounting bracket. Measured the rubber and it's under a 1/2" exposed - just over a quarter i guess, it just seems excessive and i assumed it was toast. Do i need to work on reversing this process, pressing that bushing out and replacing? Arm goes right in, ironically enough. Just want to make sure that bushing is safe - i may be able to try and reconfigure the press a bit to get in further - but didn't want to work on pressing it in if i needed to replaced it already because it is compromised.

Wanted to ask as well: i've heard conflicting info about putting lubricant on the sleeve to make inserting easier - i always thought you're not supposed to grease something like a control arm bushing, but i am seeing quite a few folks doing it to make the install go smoother?

Thank you all for the feedback here, this has been very helpful

SimpleDad

Looks like I lied. You can see where the old one was seated and your new one isn't in far enough. Seeing as it is flush with the other side I'm guessing your press was in the way of it going further because things rarely just magically line up that perfect. Try a larger diameter on your press (remember when I said it's a pain getting the press to stay? If it wasn't fighting you and sat flush on the axle mount I'm guessing you were using too small of an adapter in it).

Here's mine. The lip got a little bent up pressing it in.

5-Speed

That bushing definitely needs to go further in. I bet it was actually an oversized bushing that was purchased. I did the same a while back and that’s all it would go. Looked up the part number again and saw it was wrong… got the correct one and it went right in.

edit - if my notes are correct I used Clevite 61332

Downinthewell

Whoa!!! night and day! ok that's pressed even further than the old one - so this is good to see at least how the finished product is supposed to look

I guess my thought is: let's assume i can keep pressing with the right alignment on that bushing housing (minus the possibility it is the wrong size entirely - i'm running Moog here, so i'll double check, but passenger side was identical i believe and went right in - if i'm not mistaken they're both the same item? (K3128 on the box))
if that rubber doesn't squeeze back into the sleeve a bit - this bushing is shot, right? i shouldn't be considering running that as is if i were able to press the sleeve in another .5" regardless?

I'm gonna practice a push out with the press again on one of the old control arms to see if i can get a more effective and efficient push out method if i have to replace this one - beating on it with a chisel and hammer for six hours was torture.

appreciate everyone weighing in here - they aren't lying about this being a tough job, i'm looking forward to having it over with.