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Which Reman Head

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Old 03-28-2016, 01:59 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Desertfox1023
Water Pump, T-stat ect. are all new. I replaced them with the radiator in September.
My 4.0 only has a 115K miles on it so I'm going to leave the harmonic balancer and timing chain alone.


The local machine shop said if all I'm pulling the head for is to extract the bolt, they would do that, pressure check the head, check flatness and if everything is OK then I'll only have $110.

If I want to have the head rebuilt he'll do everything above, clean it, three angle valve job, shim springs if needed, replace valve stems the works for $275

So $110 or $275?

Keep in mind this isn't a DD or a power built jeep just a budget friendly crawler
no brainer.. the $275 is the way to go.. no use going through all that and not do a valve job and all. i'm sure at 100,000 it could use one. do it right the first time and be done with it..


if you weren't going to rebuild the head then why pull it off in the first place??


.
Old 03-28-2016, 04:01 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by abodyjoe
no brainer.. the $275 is the way to go.. no use going through all that and not do a valve job and all. i'm sure at 100,000 it could use one. do it right the first time and be done with it..


if you weren't going to rebuild the head then why pull it off in the first place??


.
Originally Posted by Desertfox1023
I know my head is "fine" , however there is an exhaust stud broke off in the head.
Pulling the head is the only way to extract the rear exhaust stud.
There are already plenty of threads out there on that topic of all kinds of tricks people have tried to avoid doing it and nothing worked.

It's been broke for 2 years but I recently failed inspection and that is why...
Old 03-28-2016, 04:04 PM
  #18  
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After 100,000 I'm sure it could use a valve job and maybe a guide here or there. It would be stupid not to have it completely rebuilt while off and at the machine shop in my opinion.
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