where did you end up getting your engine?

 

I purchased the engine from AutoZone. They use a rebuilder named "Surefire." It was $1500 + $280 core. I paid no shipping as they shipped it to the store. 3 year warranty.

I put it all together last night, and have a leaky injector. I'll fix that tonight if I have time.

Man those fuel lines are a pain. The book says "o-ring plus spacer plus o-ring" but I couldn't get them on without one of the o-rings getting pinched or cut. Using only 1 o-ring plus the spacer is a super tight fit. Am I not holding my mouth right?

I'm going to try and replace the injector without disconnecting the fuel lines. I'll see if 1 o-ring is enough.

 

split pin was for replacing the one where throw out bearing gets held on with small clip as for fuel lines both orings should be used....

 

Well, is the split pin worth dropping the tranny to put it in?

On the fuel line, I've got 1 O-ring and no leaks so far. I'm going to order two of those kits for putting them in.

Now... On with the show...

My harmonic balancer didn't go in all the way. So the belt is not lined up. I removed the front bumper to get at the bolt, and the bolt is not lined up with the big hole that I assumed was for that purpose. I think I'm going to have to remove the bolt, pull the balancer, make sure the key didn't shift back or something, and reinstall the balancer. Any tips on this?

The engine idles fine. Bringing RPMs to 1200 causes a miss. And at 1500 RPM I get the beginnings of a backfire. My mechanic buddy says perhaps the distributor is off 1 tooth, and a good idle with bad running above means the timing is too far advanced. So I pulled the distributor and went back 1 tooth. Now it won't start. Should I try going back to the original spot + 1 forward and see what happens? I'm just hoping the timing gears aren't off 1 tooth.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Update:

Distributor:
I adjusted the distributor again and all seems to be well. If my calculations were correct, the timing was too far retarded, not advanced. I simply redid what the book said to do and it seems to be running better. I couldn't run it more than a few seconds, as my water pump isn't running because of what is below:

Harmonic Balancer:
I removed the harmonic balancer using a puller, made sure the crankshaft and balancer mating surfaces were clean, and attempted to reinstall. I didn't get far before the threads in the crank were toast.

Today I purchased a 1/2" 20 bolt, along with the same tap, to attempt to clean up the damaged threads. I hope there's enough left.

My mechanic friend says to never use the bolt to press on the harmonic balancer. Instead, I should heat the balancer and tap it on with a hammer. Some threads I read say never hit the balancer with a hammer. Any suggestions from you guys?

 

The factory HB bolt is too short to be used to "press" the HB back on. I used a longer bolt with a very thick flat washer to push the HB on about half way, then I used the factory bolt to bring it home.

Do no use a hammer on the HB, it will break very easily. If you're reusing the orginal HB make sure you check it for cracks and that the rubber is not dry rotted.

 

I was having the same issue and ultimately ended up going 0-ring, 0-ring, spacer, with the spacer acting as a guide for the stem on the fuel rail. So far it's worked, but I plan on getting more Viton o-rings and trying to make it work the way it's supposed to, just need to wait for a day with more patience.

 

Pretty cheap strokers:
http://titanengines.com/remanufactured-engines/jeep

 

See link;
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/199...8/#post1760903

 

Thanks for the link. The tank looks good, but can't see more info as it looks like the site is having some trouble. The Moroso tank looks to be cheaper, but it is not an exact match, so I'd have to figure out mounting brackets and such. So I'll have to weigh the time and trouble versus the money. Great find... Thanks!

 

Yeah, there's a problem with their website. You have to reload the page until it works.