98 XJ 4.0L

I have a hanyes manual to follow and have done a lot of engine work in the past, But its been over ten years and not on a jeep. Besides the normal stuff, what all tools,equipment,hardware and parts etc. will i need to do the job (remove the head). I know PB will be a must,
Thanks

 

Its not bad at all. Unbolt the exhaust from the exhaust manifold, unhook all your sensors, fuel lines, ect... unbolt the power steering pump, uhnook cooland lines to the water neck. Un bolt and remove the coil pack. Past that its just undo the headbolts and pull it off. Get a friend as its a heavy sucker. But i found it better to remove the intake/exhaust manifolds with the head.

The rear most drivers side headbolt will have to stay in the head when youpull it off. We used a zip tie to hold it above the block so the threads didnt snag. On the way back in cut the top threaded stud on that bolt so you have enough thread to bolt the ground strap back on that way you can just drop the bolt in once the new head is on.

 

Hi Warthog.. check your PM's...Tj

 

Got it
Thanks

 

The OEM ground strap will also reach forward to the rear mounting screw on the fuel rail (in most cases,) which is far easier to reach and just as effective a ground. Probably moreso - it's (electrically) closer to the sensors for fuel management anyhow!

Inspect the head screws as they come out. Per FSM, they may only be reused once, and then discarded. If they have paint marks on them, throw them in the bin. If they don't have paint marks on them, mark them with a bright colour of paint after you torque them.

Use PTFE paste (common plumber's "Pipe Dope" will work neatly) on the driver's side front screw threads - torque that one to merely 100 pound-feet (the rest go to 110.) I like to do five stages when torquing the head down - 25/50/75/100/110. It's more than the manual sez to do, but I've modified quite a few things done in the manual, and haven't had any problems.

You may want to go ahead and service the manifold gasket once you have the head off - replace those screws as well. I prefer bronze, but use SAE5 carbon steel if you can't find bronze. Yes, you want to keep those bowl-shaped washers, they're there for a good reason! New studs may be cut from threaded rod (I use brass,) and make sure you get replacement nuts as well if you cut new studs (the OEM nuts are 3/8"-24, the "cut" stud will be 3/8"-16. Brass or SAE5.)

Why do I like brass or bronze for exhaust hardware? Unlike steel, copper alloys are incrementally hardened by heat-soaking and allowing them to cool. Steel will lose strength over time, while brass & bronze will gain strength. Whatever screws you use, use the bowl washers with them. Use Loctite #271 (or equivalent) or nothing on these screws! LT271 is formulated for exhaust heat, everything else will break down immediately.

Apply a thin, even coat of RTV copper to both sides of the manifold gasket. USE NO SEALER for the head gasket.

The only adjustment the valvetrain needs will be torquing the rocker arm pivot screws to 19 pound-feet - it's best if you turn the engine until both valves are closed before you do this. There is no other lash adjustment necessary. Use Loctite #242 (or equivalent) on these screws

I've gone into replacing the valve cover around here with the procedure that works for me, so I won't do it again at the moment. Pillage around.

And, unless you're a big guy, get help (a buddy or a hoist.) Figure that casting is a bit over two feet long, and it will weigh about 80-90# with the manifolds and all on it! I can lift it out lone-handed (done it before...) but I have a hoist now. You can safely suspend the head by threading into the holes for the rocker arm pivot screws without any trouble - turn the screws in by hand until they bottom, then back them off 180-360* before you lift. Support and guide it by hand while you're hoisting. Eighty to ninety pounds doesn't sound like a lot - but it's a damned awkward position, and back injuries royally suck! If you have to lift it off by hand, you can get a good handle by removing the thermostat and its housing, and/or fasten a chain across the top using the rocker pivot screw holes (as for the hoist.) If you're picking it up by hand using a chain, get a big rubber hose to put over the chain as a "handle" - it will make it easier on your paws.

 

Thank yall for the Info, I will print this page out and use it as a refrence when i do the job.
Thanks Again

I might have some more questions when i start to break it all down

 

You know how to find us!

RECOMMENDATION - Ditch that Haynes manual and get yourself at least a Chilton's - if not an FSM (with a little pillaging on eBay, you can usually find them secondhand for a decent price. But, even if you have to pay the full hundred bucks or so, they're worth it!)

I have a Haynes manual. I thumbed through it, and now it's relegated to shimming up the hole under a leg of my workbench (more useful there.)

 

Ha Ha,
I know what you mean, It has left me in the dark a couple times. I will look in to buying a paper version FSM. I have it on a CD and I have never seen a book with so much info. I will also try and take pics thru out the whole process. I can;t guarantee anything though. Once i get started on something, I don't like to stop.

 

My FSM tells me once the valve cover is off to remove the capscrews, bridge, pivot assemblies and rocker arms, Then remove the push rods before i remove the head. Is this nessesary? i have never heard of doing this.

 

It makes it easier to remove the head if you don't have to keep track of the small parts.

You can loosen the screws enough to pivot the rocker arms slightly and pull the pushrods that way, but you'll want to get them out of your way somehow or another...

 

Ok thanks, Just thought that once all the stuff is out of the way, All i had to do was remove the head bolts and it would come out

 

You do this because the head weights like 90 lbs and it a pain to move. You cant come strait up with it because of the fire wall and if the push rods are there you will bend them. I would leave the bridges on to give you something to hold onto and get a buddy or you will hurt your back

idk if this was said but tape up the rear head bolt on the driver side, it cant be pulled out due to the fire wall. If you dont tape it up, its a pain because you have to lift the head strait up to clear that bolt from the block.

 

Awesome, thank you. I have read about the tape and will deffinetly do that