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Removing a rusted on rear wheel......

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Old 01-01-2010 | 02:33 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Long Island XJ
that is just plain old bad advise.
Actually it worked great on my Jeep. You dont have to drive fast or anything just swerve a few times at about 10-15mph and youll hear a "clunk" when you hear it stop and tighten the lugs and go home.
Old 01-01-2010 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 96Cherokee113
Wow. And I thought my friends and I were the only ones who called it a BFH. This is what ours looks like http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...keyword=hammer . And as for getting it off, a couple of swift kicks should knock it right off. Just make sure the it is on jack stands and/or secure on the jack.
I'm pretty sure BFH is the technical term for it. That's what we call it in our shop and my uncles call it that in their body shop. It will remove a stuck wheel guaranteed. Granted we have a lift to put the car on.
Old 01-01-2010 | 10:30 AM
  #18  
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It must be the technical term! Everybody here knows what it means, but when we have a newbie with us while we're working and say "Get me the BFH" they go "What's a B-F-H?". Kids these days, no common sense. When you have a 48 oz. Craftsman hammer it should hit you instantly what BFH means.
Old 01-01-2010 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Long Island XJ
that is just plain old bad advise.


Like I said, it wasn't the best idea, but it works. Probably should have mentioned at the time I did this, I knew I needed to replace the drums and all the brake hardware at the time.
It was a "last resort" option for me.
Old 01-02-2010 | 08:13 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by yorkite


Like I said, it wasn't the best idea, but it works. Probably should have mentioned at the time I did this, I knew I needed to replace the drums and all the brake hardware at the time.
It was a "last resort" option for me.
hey what ever works right

Did you inspect the studs after doing so? Thats where my gripe starts. loss of treads, bent or broken? Or damage to the rim itself.
Old 01-02-2010 | 08:59 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Mike1998XJ
"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils...."
That's an interesting report. I was taking my '47 CJ2 down to the frame and was snapping 8 out of 10 bolts even with WD40 and Liquid Wrench. I started using PB Blaster and was only breaking 2 out of 10. I swear by it now!

I had a rim stuck on my '70 truck, was soaking it with PB Blaster and beating it with a 10# sledge for a couple hours, Lowered the rigs weight onto the tire without lugs & even resorted to beating the steal rim... After a few hours i was giving up and going to get the lugs to put back on and it "Fell off" all on it's own...
Old 01-02-2010 | 09:59 AM
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sometimes if we get one like that, to get to two bigest guys in the shop. one to kick the inside of the tire and one to kick the outside ( this works very well )

and if that doesint work BFH x2, same two guys, and give it hell
Old 01-03-2010 | 04:15 PM
  #23  
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Well I took the PB Blaster too it. I'm not sure how much it will actuality penetrate. Where else should i be spraying? inside of the wheel? I just sprayed the front side. I'm going to let it sit for 5 hours and give her a try. I feel like i'm going to break something taking the BFH to it....

Last edited by kitsapfreerider; 01-03-2010 at 04:21 PM.
Old 01-04-2010 | 10:48 PM
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I'm just guessing that because of the difficulty i'm having the PO never did rotate the wheels...

Well I let it sit over night and went at it tonight...nothing... didn't budge. I soaked them for the third time and i'll try later. It's just the rear wheels... why not the front?

Maybe i'll pick up some acetone.
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Old 01-04-2010 | 10:53 PM
  #25  
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How about if you take a 2x4 or something long to pry with and jam it in behind the tire and pry like hel*.
If it were me I'd be pissed by now. I'd take a piece of wood, protect the tire and bump my plow truck into the darn tire.

Get mad!
Your not trying hard enough!
Old 01-05-2010 | 07:17 AM
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I agree at this point I'd be so pi$$ed off I'd say to he!! with the wheel and be hitting it with a Dead Blow BFH. If it's just an OEM steel wheel I'd find 2 more real quick (which is easier than getting that one off) and have at it on the wheel. One thing that works for us in the shop with stuck metal is PB Blaster and then heat it up with a torch. Just be careful not to burn anything you shouldn't.
Old 01-05-2010 | 08:12 AM
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I see the problem, you need to take those lug nuts off.


Sorry, man, couldn't resist.

As stated above, I'd try heat. You want to try to heat just the wheel, not the drum or hub, so that it will expand enough to come off. Good luck!
Old 01-05-2010 | 02:44 PM
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seafoam deep creep works pretty good...and when mine were stuck i lifted it got behind it with a short handled drilling hammer hit a couple times turned it and hit it some more times then slowly lowered the jeep onto it and it popped right off never a problem since
Old 01-05-2010 | 02:48 PM
  #29  
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paint your drums.... I avoided a lot of hassle and it seals the rear drums WELL...
Old 01-05-2010 | 05:06 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by 00xj-classic
paint your drums.... I avoided a lot of hassle and it seals the rear drums WELL...
I called up the PO and he said he did paint them. It doesn't really matter in the rust belt though. 2010's need PB blaster were I live.....

Really you have to remove the lug nuts????? hahaha that helps thanks guys... hahahaha. I but the acetone ATF mix on there and i'll try the OA torch after letting it sit this week.



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