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Renix 4.0 tuning questions

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Old 05-30-2013, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Jakers
In regards to Cruisers Renix Tips:
Looking at your list it seems like alot of stuff to do and they don't seem like important fixes. But after reading around on this forum (and doing the fixes myself) I can see how something as simple as just clenaing contacts can make a huge difference. It all takes time going through and doing all of the basic stuff but like you said I'm a VERY happy Jeep owner knowing that these things are being done. I think the most time consuming part of the splices was re-wrapping everything with electrical tape and split loom. I wasn't going to do the Renix tips because they seemed pretty insignificant but after going through the entire list I found some parts that needed to be replaced/repaired and the Jeep has since improved!
It is VERY important to go through all of his tips, message him if you have any questions he usually gets back within a few hours, I think the longest delay I had was overnight...

This wasn't directed directly to you bobblyx but more so every Renix user out there.
I couldn't agree more. I've used a handful of his guides and tips already with great success. That's how I swapped a 96 4.0 into my 87. I brought my DVM to work with me today so I'm going to check the TPS on my lunch break. I also have my tools so I'll be check exhaust bolts as well.
I have noticed that replacing the O2 sensor helped more than I realized. It's still a bit sluggish but I have found it's warming up faster and my heater warms up quicker. Also, once it's warmed up the idle seems much smoother than before. I have no idea why an o2 sensor would help with warm up, but if it works I can live with not knowing..
Old 05-30-2013, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by bobbylx
I couldn't agree more. I've used a handful of his guides and tips already with great success. That's how I swapped a 96 4.0 into my 87. I brought my DVM to work with me today so I'm going to check the TPS on my lunch break. I also have my tools so I'll be check exhaust bolts as well.
I have noticed that replacing the O2 sensor helped more than I realized. It's still a bit sluggish but I have found it's warming up faster and my heater warms up quicker. Also, once it's warmed up the idle seems much smoother than before. I have no idea why an o2 sensor would help with warm up, but if it works I can live with not knowing..
Reason for quicker warm up is simple

As 02 sensors fail the computer defaults to a rich fuel mixture to prevent from leaning out and blowing up the motor.

With the new sensor it has a perfect mixture,so there's no extra fuel in the combustion chamber.

Evaporating fluid has a cooling effect,so It takes longer to warm up.
Old 05-30-2013, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by bobbylx
it's warming up faster and my heater warms up quicker. Also, once it's warmed up the idle seems much smoother than before.
Old 05-30-2013, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 123456bmx
Reason for quicker warm up is simple

As 02 sensors fail the computer defaults to a rich fuel mixture to prevent from leaning out and blowing up the motor.

With the new sensor it has a perfect mixture,so there's no extra fuel in the combustion chamber.

Evaporating fluid has a cooling effect,so It takes longer to warm up.
Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense to me.

So I went outside just now and started the TPS adjustment. Per Cruisers first step I checked the ground. My resistance at the plug was 2.8ohms, so yeah, that's the first thing I've got to fix. I PMed Cruiser for the ground fix per his TPS adjustment thread. Hopefully once I fix the ground and get the TPS adjusted it will smooth out even more.

And for what it's worth, I measured all the other ground points I could get to and all were 0.1ohms.

Last edited by bobbylx; 05-30-2013 at 12:20 PM.
Old 05-30-2013, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by bobbylx
Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense to me.

So I went outside just now and started the TPS adjustment. Per Cruisers first step I checked the ground. My resistance at the plug was 2.8ohms, so yeah, that's the first thing I've got to fix. I PMed Cruiser for the ground fix per his TPS adjustment thread. Hopefully once I fix the ground and get the TPS adjusted it will smooth out even more.

And for what it's worth, I measured all the other ground points I could get to and all were 0.1ohms.
It's Post #6 in the "pink link" of my signature below.
Old 05-30-2013, 05:46 PM
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You are checking the ground resistance with the ignition off? Btw I did mention being over rich cooling it in the link in post #12. Same principal as fridges and AC's use, liquid to vapor sucks heat.

Anyway, if you are still runnen the stock injectors you might save $ with an upgrade to 4 hole injectors.
Old 05-30-2013, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
It's Post #6 in the "pink link" of my signature below.
Hah, thank you sir. It was right there in front of me..

And DFlintstone, yep, ignition off while checking the ground. I using the injectors from the new 96 engine. Better injectors are definitely on the list of things to do.
Old 05-30-2013, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by bobbylx
Better injectors are definitely on the list of things to do.
Cool. Just maken sure. Ign. on, changes the readings. I guess I did see earlier you are using the higher flow injectors. Within parameters in closed loop. There is debate. (I'm alone really), but me thinks being rich on default pulse width in open loop delays closed loop. Others say "nah".

My injector "trip" (again, a long thread) > https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/199...r-swap-163105/
Old 06-03-2013, 12:23 PM
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Well, sorted out the ground and got a nice 0.1ohm reading. Proceeded to adjust the TPS. Incoming was 4.91 and output was .6. I adjusted the output to the 17% mark, which was about .834. I haven't driven it yet but the idle seems about the same, maybe slightly better.
At this point, I'm just going to pull it into the garage over the weekend and check all bolts, ie, exhaust, intake again, and give her a complete tune up as well as checking the vacuum. I'll update if I find a 100% solution. Thanks for all the suggestions and help so far.
Old 06-03-2013, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by bobbylx
Well, sorted out the ground and got a nice 0.1ohm reading. Proceeded to adjust the TPS. Incoming was 4.91 and output was .6. I adjusted the output to the 17% mark, which was about .834. I haven't driven it yet but the idle seems about the same, maybe slightly better.
At this point, I'm just going to pull it into the garage over the weekend and check all bolts, ie, exhaust, intake again, and give her a complete tune up as well as checking the vacuum. I'll update if I find a 100% solution. Thanks for all the suggestions and help so far.
Excellent work and excellent plan.
Old 06-12-2013, 01:39 PM
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Just a small update for those who've helped me here. This past weekend I did a good tune up, went through and check tightness on all bolts, and lastly did the C101 delete. Between the 3 of those this thing is running great! It still has a very slight amount of hesitation when getting into the throttle, but I think an injector upgrade will cure that. I'm heading the pick and pull this weekend as my fathers day "get away from everyone" trip so I plan to pick up some injectors along with a bunch of other things. Thanks again for all the help.
Old 06-13-2013, 01:11 AM
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MMMM Thanks...were any bolts very loose? were the plugs at .055? (instead of .035) I don't have a c-101....

I don't have it down right off which Volvo's, but I found thees do work great.

Bosch 280 155 746 injectors.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/199...r-swap-163105/

I adjust that "kick-down" cable with almost no play. There is a button on top of where the housing comes out. Having a "finger nail" between the cable/ stop will help throttle response.

Old 06-13-2013, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
MMMM Thanks...were any bolts very loose? were the plugs at .055? (instead of .035) I don't have a c-101....

I don't have it down right off which Volvo's, but I found thees do work great.

Bosch 280 155 746 injectors.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/199...r-swap-163105/

I adjust that "kick-down" cable with almost no play. There is a button on top of where the housing comes out. Having a "finger nail" between the cable/ stop will help throttle response.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/199...r-swap-163105/
Yeah, I found out searching the forum that people increase the gap. There were a couple bolts that I got 1/4 turn on, that
might have helped.
I really think the c101 delete did wonders. It could be my imagination, but it seems like everything works better after that, even my windows seem to roll down faster.

I also read through your injector thread. Those Volvo injectors are what I was going to look for. If I cant find them, I'm already watching some on eBay from that seller you bought from.
Old 06-13-2013, 06:56 AM
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Use your old cap and do the distributor indexing while you're farting around.

#13 in my "pink link", with photos.
Old 06-13-2013, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Use your old cap and do the distributor indexing while you're farting around.

#13 in my "pink link", with photos.
Crap! I knew there was something I was forgetting. When I was working on it the other day, I stood there looking at the engine bay thinking to myself "what else was I planning on doing?"

I already have a cap with the hole cut in it from my original install, so I'll do that one night this week.

On a side note, after the tune up I filled up with gas and reset my trip counter. I am currently 1 line above 3/4 tank and have put 98 miles on it. If I keep going at that rate I could average about ~350 miles per tank, which would be pretty darn good. Next fill up I'll get calculate my mpg and see how it's doing.


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