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Renix Bouncing rpms, idle?

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Old 07-06-2015 | 03:29 PM
  #16  
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o2 sensor harness is good and has not come in contact with the exhaust manifold and the plastic harness protector is still good.

Also I had to drive about 35 miles to a doctors appointment this morning and it ran horribly on the way down then when i got to the parking lot i opened the hood to see if i could check voltages of random things while its running bad and voila it runs perfect. Tried everything to get it to start bouncing again. Drove it home with 5 or 6 stops and it started and ran perfect every time. I know it will come back because i didn't do anything to fix it so i still need to track the problem down next time it starts again.
Old 07-06-2015 | 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ljobbins
i opened the hood to see if i could check voltages of random things while its running bad and voila it runs perfect.
Maybe check that the POS battery post isn't touching the hood....(or anything else)
Old 07-08-2015 | 11:48 AM
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I will check that but i also wanted to check the fuel pressure at the rail when its bouncing hard. What pressure should it be for start and running? thanks
Old 07-08-2015 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ljobbins
I will check that but i also wanted to check the fuel pressure at the rail when its bouncing hard. What pressure should it be for start and running? thanks
31 PSI. 39 PSI with the vacuum line disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator.
Old 07-15-2015 | 06:48 PM
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check that fuel pressure and use carb cleaner to check for vacuum leaks at the throttle body, especially where the MAP vacuum tube attaches.
Old 07-16-2015 | 10:52 AM
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So I checked the fuel pressure and it was good even when it was bouncing. So my buddy's dad who is a mechanic finally had time to check out my car and while inspecting it he watched the iac and said it wasn't moving right and sticking and stuff. It was clean and tested ok with resistance and voltage but I guess the motor was bad and the plunger wasn't moving right. So I got a new one and it's running perfect right now. So thanks to cruiser and everyone else. I definitely am a firm believer in spending time to check every possibility before replacing expensive parts.
Old 11-07-2015 | 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
First, have you done any of my Tips? If so, which ones?

For the Renix years, 87-90, the O2 sensor has 3 wires, 2 black and 1 orange. The orange wire (largest gauge of the 3) is the 12-14 volt power that comes from the O2 sensor heater relay on the passenger side firewall, and that powers the internal heater in the sensor so that the sensor can work at idle, and almost immediately after start up. Loss of that power will hurt gas mileage even with a good O2 sensor.

One of the black wires is a common ground for the heater power and O2 signal to the ECU, so a poor ground will give a voltage feedback from the heater power input, to the ECU causing poor mileage even with a good O2 sensor.

The third wire, also black is a voltage feed wire, 5 volts, from the ECU to the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is an O2 concentration sensitive variable resistor. At optimal O2 concentration the 5 volt input feed to the O2 sensor drops to 2.45 volts due to losses across the O2 sensor to ground. That same wire if disconnected from the O2 sensor will read 5 volts constant to ground.

At idle that voltage should read 1-4 volts oscillating quickly back and forth roughly once every second. At 2000 rpm it should run between 2 and 3 volts max, and is optimally running between 2.3 and 2.6 volts at 2000 rpm (in park). A digital meter can NOT be used for reading the O2 sensor voltage, but it can be used to test the ground and the 12-14 volts to the heater and the 5 volt feed from the ECU with power on and engine off. You must use an old style analog meter with the needle gauge on the display to see the voltage swing back and forth with the engine runing.

If the O2 sensor readings are not right, say they read 4 volts or 1 volt steady, you have a problem. BUT before you blame the O2 sensor make sure it has good wiring, and make sure the proper voltage is feeding it, by turning power on, engine off to read the engine off voltage feeds (12-14 volts on the orange wire, and 5 volts on one of the two black wires), and ensure the ground wire (power off) reads less than 1 ohm to the battery negative post.

A leaky exhaust system or leaky fuel injector(s), or bad compression, bad rings or leaky valves, bad plugs, wires, cap, rotor, HV coil, and so on, or combination of these, can also cause a lean or rich condition that gives you high or low O2 sensor readings that are not the O2 sensors fault, so try and verify those other items also before buying parts like an O2 sensor to fix your problem.
What a great answer! I'm going to test mine. Thanks Cruiser!
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