Glad you got it figured, man. And thanks for keeping us updated!

 

@basslicks and dude that fawkin vice was just about the closest Ive ever come to feeling like I was in a cartoon IRL Haha. Your garage is a dojo worthy of the Karate Kid himself. Thanks again man.

 

Hahaha!!!! I'll never forget that, man.


[POP]
"What was that?"
"Probably just the u-joint moving... keep tightening it"
[POP]
"I don't know man, doesn't seem like it's doing anything"
[crumble]
"..."
"That did NOT just happen!"
""
""

 

Anyone know about the Renix 4.0 with a crank position sensor on the FRONT of the engine? I bought this 4.0 for my CJ7 in 2005 from a buddy who helped me install, believe it is 87-91. The harness was connected to the CPS and I haven't thought about it as no issues. But I'm getting same symptom as this post; it will start and run 3-4 miles (or when heats up) and engine just dies. I can usually disconnect plug to the front CPS for 10-15 min, plug back in, and it starts. Fuel pump pressure is fine. Mainly just curious if anyone knows about this setup with CPS up front since I'm not sure what I have in the Franken-Jeep here. Photo attached

 

HESCO made a kit like that. I'm not sure I'm convinced it's a CPS issue.

 

Glad you thought of Hesco! This must be from an aftermarket EFI kit from them. This engine is a combination of parts but runs great most of the time. I'll go through the rest of the troubleshooting in here and on your other thread. What else would you suspect for this? Could it be the sync signal generator inside the distributor? I think I replaced the distributor a few years back it still looks pretty new. Thanks!

 

You can unplug the sync generator and not notice much difference.

Do you have the fuel pump ballast resistor?

Ever checked fuel pressure exactly when it fails?

 

I think fuel is fine I can hear the pump and saw 30 psi at the fuel rail during one of the "non-starting" episodes. I also tested starter fluid in the intake no reaction so think my problem is electronic. I don't think this has the fuel pump ballast resistor but will look for it to be certain. thanks

 

If it didn't start with starting fluid, don't worry about the resistor.

The CPS can be tested, but most frequently it's failure is "crank, no start".

Ever refreshed the coil/ICM connectors?

 

The CPS will defeat the ignition spark if it isn't seeing engine rotation. I found that out the hard way. I replaced it with a cheapo from Rock Auto and got exactly 2.5 miles away from where it first broke down before the RA sensor also went bad. My point is even though your 1st post shows you changing the CPS, do you know if it's working? I remember the old points/condenser ignition days and infrequently getting a bad condenser with a new points kit. Stuff happens.