I wonder if you are getting inaccurate numbers. You multiply the reference voltage by .17 on the engine side and by.83 on the trans side. You don't divide it.

 

My apologies. I thought you divide it. Thank you. I hope you have been well. Thank you for your help.

 

No sweat. Reset it using the 3 pin flat connector.

 

Do I use the three pin for an automatic transmission? Or the four pin?

 

I tested the three prong And I got 4.93. 4.93 x .17 = .83. I set it to .83 and it had the high rev. So I shut it off. Loosened torx,started it up, turned it clockwise and adjusted it back to .83. Now the idle fluctuates. Should I take it on a test drive?

 

Give it a run and a few key cycles.

 

It ran really good. But now it is jerking when shifting. Does that mean I do the four pin connector next?

 

You can CHECK the trans side connector if you want.
It drives good, idles good?
How long since you changed trans fluid?

Have you ever adjusted the throttle valve cable?

Is the TRANS switch in Power or Comfort?

 

Second trip out and it is still sputtering at light acceleration. No longer back firing. I keep it in comfort. I only use power for up hill. I haven’t changed the trans fluid since I got it. I know I’m going to hell. I planned on doing so soon. I bought shift solenoids and trans filter.

 

Sorry for two messages I couldn’t remember everything you asked. I have only adjusted the kick down. Do you think I should get a new one? It’s bound to have stretched over thirty years

 

Keep it in Power mode or do this:THE HISTORY OF THE 4.0

BYPASSING THE POWER/COMFORT SWITCH

AUGUST 6, 2016 CRUISER54 42 COMMENTS EDITEven though the indicator lights up in your Power/Comfort switch, that does not mean the switch is working and putting the Transmission Control Unit into Power mode.

The switches had a high failure rate.

Remove and unplug the switch. In the harness are 3 wires. One has a stripe, one is tan, and the other wire is black.

Make a 4″ jumper wire with a male spade at each end.

Plug one end of the jumper wire in the cavity for the tan wire and the other in the cavity for the striped wire of the harness and you’ll be in permanent Power mode.

Stuff the harness back in and reinstall the switch for looks if you want.

Make sure the 7.5 amp “Trans” fuse in the fusebox is good.

If you happen to have a 91 or 92 XJ/MJ and it has the Power/Comfort switch, just jumper the Tan and Blue wires in the harness plug.

NEVER include the black wire when jumpering!!!

TV cable adjustment makes up for stretch. Ya don't need a new one.

ONLY change the trans fluid. The filter/screen never needs replacing. Leave the solenoids alone for now.

There's a drain plug on the trans pan. Drain and refill the trans. Drive it. Pick up a gallon of Dex/Merc trans fluid to have for when you do the job. NOTHING ELSE!!!

 

Your awesome man! I truly appreciate your help. I am going to do the throttle cable adjustment tomorrow, the switch jumper and change my trans fluid.

 

Let us know the results!!!!

 

So the accelerator cable definitely benefited from adjusting it. I have power on demand. Which may be from jumping the switch. But it feels a lot more responsive now. I still have the sputtering and back firing though.

 

Good. Now read about this.CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

DISTRIBUTOR INDEXING

OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 67 COMMENTS EDIT

1. Remove the distributor cap and cut a “window” into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The “window” should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.
2. Use Tip 12 first to guarantee you’re on #1 TDC.
3. Install a ¾” wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the “0” degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.
4. Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.
5. Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.
6. Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.
7. If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o’clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block. A little tip here. Rather than use a dizzy gasket, use an o ring instead. NAPA #727-2024.
8. Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.
9. Turn the rotor to the 4 o’clock position.
10. Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o’clock position.
11. Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout “window”. Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .
12. Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.
13. Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.

HERE’S WHY DISTRIBUTOR INDEXING IS SO IMPORTANT:

Distributor indexing explained:

For clarification though, that’s not a cam sensor inside the Renix dizzy. It’s there to fire the injectors sequentially with the firing order. You’ll never notice if it went bad because the ECU will try to “guess” where it is and does a heck of a job at it.

As for the “timing”, it is controlled by the ECU. Ever notice how wide the tip of the rotor is? Try and wrap your head around this:

When the ECU yells “Fire” to the ignition control module, where is the rotor in relationship to the dizzy terminal? Not to the terminal yet? Past the terminal too far?

What happens to the spark/secondary ignition strength when it has to jump the Grand Canyon in comparison to shooting from a rotor tip? Poor ignition performance, bucking, jerking, longer crank times.

The factory was aware of this and issued a Technical Service Bulletin on it. This Tip, #13, is a condensed version of that factory TSB. You wouldn’t believe how many we found out of whack when I worked at the dealership. Yours is probably messed up also. RARELY did we find one set accurately.

Use Tip 12 first to guarantee you’re on #1 TDC.