It's always nice to have new, clean parts, I know here at my place here, and in Cuba that is not always the case. Since you shouldn't need to touch it again, just get it set so the butterfly is not touching/digging in to the TB, with no space. I might use a narrow strip of paper to check it. I haven't done it but saw somewhere about striking the plug that conceals the head of the screw off center with a punch to tip it so you can get it out. I don't know there. I've drilled similar, dodgy business.

 

Yeah right now If I hold my hand over the butterfly there is soooo much suction so I think it needs the screw backed out a bit to close the butterfly. What I read was that at idle your I AC is what supposed to let all the air in, then when you press throttle the butterfly opens. But idk what is right.

 

For $35, I'd grab the whole throttle body with the TPS and IAC and have spares.

As for OPTIMAL TPS adjustment, it isn't a certain number. It's a percentage of the input voltage that you calculate using my instructions. And, even that calculation isn't worth a hoot if the throttle butterfly is leaking air past it because some moron screwed it up..

 

Well guys I feel dumb because I have been throwing money into it for different sensors and what not, I did what cruiser said and backed the factory set idle screw down. Slowly backed it up until I could barely see a sliver of light through the butterfly when closed and reinstalled. Re-adjusted the Tps then put all my tools away and hoped for the best. Started the truck up and it is purring at about 750rpms. I am so relieved that all the headaches will be gone for that portion of things. Here's what I think....... after cleaning the huge layer of gunk off it from the previous owner I opened the gap on the butterfly from where the.gunk was and that was my issue. I appreciate all the help and thanks cruiser for the good write up on that.

 

Now to fix my exhaust leak and rear freeze plug that's leaking on back of engine inside the bell housing.

 

Congratulations.

 

Cruiser do you have a write or suggestions on removing old intake/exhaust Mani gasket to replace. Now that my idles pretty well down to nothing I'd like to fix my loud leak. Especially since emissions is coming up and I doubt I'll pass with the leak I've got.

 

That's one I don't have. Sorry.

Here's an outline of the ones I've done and the ones I'm hoping to do in the future though.




　
Revised 04-18-2012
* means instructions have been written.
　
1-Ground refreshing, adding engine bay grounds, link to Kelleys WIP*
1a-Improving the instrument panel ground*
2- Checking sensor grounds*
2a- Repairing sensor grounds*

3-C101 Connector Refreshing*
4-Connector and relay /receptacle refreshing*
5-Coil/ICM contacts*

6- Snugging up intake manifold bolts
7-Throttle body and IAC cleaning
8-TPS testing and adjusting*
9-CPS testing and adjusting*
10-CPS wiring bypass
11-ECU connector refreshing
12-Distributor indexing
13-O2 sensor diagnostics
14-Setting base idle
15-Valve cover mod*
16-Sensor ground upgrade*
17-CPS Timing Advance Mod*
18-Headlight Harness Installation*
19-Trans Plug Connector Refreshing*
20- Rear Main Seal Diagnosis*
21-Vacuum Test For Exhaust Restriction*
22-Restoring Throttle Body Adjustment
　

 

What is the valve cover mod?

 

To take off the manifold you have to take out all the upper and lower bolts holding it in. Be careful not to break any, I heard they tend to stick. It could also just be that some rattled loose and need to be tightened. It's a big job since there's a ton of stuff above the manifold. When you get it off, just scrape the gasket off the block and the manifold with a normal scraper or chisel, making sure not to scratch any of the metal up. If needed, take some paint thinner to clean it up more. Watch to make sure nothing goes inside the block anywhere. Apply the new gasket along with some of that brush on sealer (cant remember the name at the moment) and put everything back into place. I've been meaning to do that but I don't really have a leak or time to do it. I read about it on here though.

 

Well I checked my upper bolts with a swivel and they were solid not even budging. So I don't think that my leaks coming from any of the uppers. I'm not sure if my header is cracked but its a loud leak at the back of block. At a drive thru fast food I can see smooe coming from the engine bay from how bad it leaks. Its the unburned gas my o2 is forcing in there for the leak I think.

 

Check the actual o2 sensor on the downpipe. That might be the source of the leak.

 

You can get to it from underneath.

 

If you have stock injectors and smell gas you should see if they are leaking. Don't wanna make the news with a fire.They often leak where the metal is crimped.

 

I'm not leaking gas anywhere, its just my very bad exhaust leak. It sounds like its got a hole in it. From what I understand with an exhaust leak as bad as mine it will tell the o2 that it's not getting enough gas so the o2 tells the CPU to put in more fuel