Renix Missfire over 2k rpm/hitting a cutoff at 2k rpm
#31
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Well... it's not a fuel pump, or fuel injectors, or a new tank of gas...
I had a new distributer show up today, I've never replaced more than a cap/rotor before, so I'm a bit nervous to do it, but nothing I've done has changed anything, so willing to try. also willing to take any other suggestions. Still not able to rev over 2k rpm.
I had a new distributer show up today, I've never replaced more than a cap/rotor before, so I'm a bit nervous to do it, but nothing I've done has changed anything, so willing to try. also willing to take any other suggestions. Still not able to rev over 2k rpm.
#32
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,765
Received 470 Likes
on
384 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I did mine a few moths ago. Hardest part was sawing off the tab on the housing.
Here's the direct link to Cruiser54's site.
http://cruiser54.com/?p=68
Here's the direct link to Cruiser54's site.
http://cruiser54.com/?p=68
#34
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,765
Received 470 Likes
on
384 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Well, the knock sensor generates a small electrical signal when it senses knocking. The stronger the intensity, the higher the voltage generated. Once the ECU detects the knock, it will retard the timing until it stops.
I broke mine some years ago jacking up the engine to replace a motor mount. I drove it for years without the sensor until a sharp eyed smog inspector noticed.
I broke mine some years ago jacking up the engine to replace a motor mount. I drove it for years without the sensor until a sharp eyed smog inspector noticed.
#35
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Gave up and dropped it off at a shop, Owner owns 5 XJs himself... so I felt confident that he at least kinda understand what he's doing.
#36
Seasoned Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 468
Received 90 Likes
on
77 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I am really interested in what your problem turned out to be. I could make the same video of my instrument cluster. It is currently doing the exact same thing.
#37
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
shop had it for 4 months and didn’t hardly touch it, so figured nothing out, I’ve messed with it more and still have no clue. It got hot on me, so I gave up till we cool down a bit. I’m still open to ideas, next is timing.
#38
Seasoned Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 468
Received 90 Likes
on
77 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I sent an update to the troubleshooting I've done on my Jeep earlier today. It was moved to its own thread by the moderators. The thread is titled "Won't Rev"
#39
Seasoned Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 468
Received 90 Likes
on
77 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I was looking at the values on your second video and two things stand out in relation to the normal values Nick has in his quick start guide. 1st, your ST is low. Ideal is 128. As I understand it, there is not an error that occurs with low ST - just high. There is a post (that I can not locate again) in which Ecomike is trying to resolve a low ST issue with similar symptoms, but not rev limited. 2nd, the IAC value is explained in the latest online quick start manual. Essentially below 128 the IAC is closing (decreasing idle speed), above 128 the IAC is opening (increasing idle speed). I would assume 0 is not an ideal indication. Although I have similar symptoms as you, I have high ST, >255, which does cause a fault.
#40
Seasoned Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 468
Received 90 Likes
on
77 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Engine miss above 2000 RPM - NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association
Found the post in my history.
Found the post in my history.
#43
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Engine miss above 2000 RPM - NAXJA Forums -::- North American XJ Association
Found the post in my history.
Found the post in my history.
Hmmm... seems like their issue was swapping spark plug wires. and while possible, I don't think that's my issue, I've had spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributer cap, even the cylinder head on and off so many times, I think at some point i would have figured out I had them on wrong and corrected it. and I do follow cruiser's tips.
If I was off one plug all the way around, would it even run?
#44
Hmmm... seems like their issue was swapping spark plug wires. and while possible, I don't think that's my issue, I've had spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributer cap, even the cylinder head on and off so many times, I think at some point i would have figured out I had them on wrong and corrected it. and I do follow cruiser's tips.
If I was off one plug all the way around, would it even run?
If I was off one plug all the way around, would it even run?
#45
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
So......... I was out messing with my jeep just now, and something strange happened... the reading from the TPS went to 0 on my R.E.M., It's basically brand new, but could I have a bad one? it was adjusted correctly, but could it be giving a bad reading to the engine? that wouldn't make sense since it was replaced BECAUSE of this issue. What happens with a bad TPS?