Renix oxy.sensor...
#1
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Year: 1990
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Renix oxy.sensor...
Looking online today for a new 02 sensor. Came across 'Herko" brand...anybody have experience with this brand? Also, Delphi and Denso sensors if any one has any input on those as well that would be cool. Pretty sure mine hasn't been changed its whole life thus far.
Thanks for your time.
Thanks for your time.
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Year: 1999
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I wouldn't be hesitant to use a Bosch on an 87-90. They were the OEM supplier so you would be getting the exact same sensor.
But I recommend NTK on 91-01.
But I recommend NTK on 91-01.
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He speaketh and therefore it shall be law!
#7
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Just did mine last week with a Walker. Exact match. Did a basic DIY YouTube video as well;
http://youtu.be/TExI8YnNWzs
http://youtu.be/TExI8YnNWzs
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#8
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
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I install 15122 Bosch sensor on all cars, it is about $20. I cut wires and use old connector.
I even installed it on 01 Saturn, which had 2 wire sensor. you just need to know which wires to use.
research O2 sensor wire colors
I even installed it on 01 Saturn, which had 2 wire sensor. you just need to know which wires to use.
research O2 sensor wire colors
Last edited by car5car; 08-14-2012 at 08:42 PM.
#9
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
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Looking online today for a new 02 sensor. Came across 'Herko" brand...anybody have experience with this brand? Also, Delphi and Denso sensors if any one has any input on those as well that would be cool. Pretty sure mine hasn't been changed its whole life thus far.
Thanks for your time.
Thanks for your time.
Nota Bene - the RENIX HEGO sensor differs in operation from most other HEGO sensors used, it is a variable resistance used to divide a reference voltage instead of an "air battery" used to generate a voltage signal. Ergo, most other HEGO sensors will not work with RENIX. I don't think anything will be blown - you'll just be stuck in rich trim from never getting out of open loop, and your fuel economy will suck.
Also, I don't like using "universal" HEGO sensors, as they require cutting the OEM connector off of the old sensor and reusing it. Given the operating environment, that connector should be renewed anyhow - and every time you add a connection in an electrical circuit, you add another potential point of failure.
#10
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Year: 1990
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ok. Thanks everyone for the input! i'll try the bosch (i won't try to reinvent the wheel this time). it is the cheapest locally @ $57 + tax vs. $94 for the denso.
cheers
cheers
#11
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
Just curious...Hows your idle? Also, you might want to check the heater power, guess you know that though....
To make it easy, I had my left front hanging with the wheel off, came from the front and chopped the wires so a 7/8 box would fit.
To make it easy, I had my left front hanging with the wheel off, came from the front and chopped the wires so a 7/8 box would fit.
#12
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i've got o2 sensor sockets. they work ok, although on some tougher ones, it seems they spread the socket pretty easy (rounded off one on a nissan once grrr)
#13
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Hey, Bingo! That's what i was hoping to hear. I don't really get that cycle. Maybe being rich it loads up until the idle drops off enough for the puter' to open the IAC and hence the little surge. Just a guess. Then being back on the correct mix with the new 02 sensor it will smooth out for you. (also I hope). Another pleasant surprise for me was my heat coming on hot about twice as fast.
Now I need to sell my (8), 703's, and pick up some 4 hole 18.6 #(+--) injectors so I'm not running so rich in default/open loop. (taking longer to warm up to closed loop)
Now I need to sell my (8), 703's, and pick up some 4 hole 18.6 #(+--) injectors so I'm not running so rich in default/open loop. (taking longer to warm up to closed loop)
#14
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ya after my factory injectors popped, i put in the ford yellows (19 lbs), i thought i would see a major difference, but it was very minimal. And btw, when my idle goes up, it takes a REALLY long time for it to come down on its own...I 'make' it come down by stabbin the brake and letting out the clutch ever so slightly till the rpms drop to about 300-500 then let off and it usually stays. Its not a 'hunting' type idle, it just wants to rev higher when things are pretty hot under there...takes a long time to heat up though too...hmmm
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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ya after my factory injectors popped, i put in the ford yellows (19 lbs), i thought i would see a major difference, but it was very minimal. And btw, when my idle goes up, it takes a REALLY long time for it to come down on its own...I 'make' it come down by stabbin the brake and letting out the clutch ever so slightly till the rpms drop to about 300-500 then let off and it usually stays. Its not a 'hunting' type idle, it just wants to rev higher when things are pretty hot under there...takes a long time to heat up though too...hmmm