Actually, it is suppose to close. (just not touch, rub a groove). The IAC provides the idle air.

I only get 4 TV channels, you are usually more amusing than what I can see there on my breaks.

Or stock works also. What do you mean by the "bottom" went out? And I wonder why the tape. It might be fine without it! It doesn't seal on the threads, it seals where the lip hits the gasket in the cap. (allot of guys don't get that, unions, flare fittings, all sorts of things don't seal at the threads) The tape might be preventing it going on all the way.

 

I'm glad I can amuse someone! Lol without the tape the cap just spins and never actually get tight. The tape was to get it tight enough I suppose. With the new bottle all is better kinda, I think I still have air in the system. I just ordered one from oreillys, same one but alot nicer.

 

the screw had been messed with, i backed it out a bit, pliers method.since i cant move it, so far so good on idle! fingers crossed***

 

Flintstone's full of it that the stock cap works good. They don't. He's just pissed because he gorilla'd one of the 703-1396 caps and blames the cap......

 

i really want to go to the open system, but that will be a few months from now!

 

Cruiser’s Renix Throttle Body Butterfly Adjustment

Okay. Let's start from scratch. First off, that's not an idle adjustment screw. It's a throttle butterfly stop screw. It's purpose is to allow the butterfly to be as close to completely closed as it can be without binding or wearing into the throttle body. It was never intended to be adjusted in the field. But, Uncle Bob didn’t know that, did he?

Engine off. Back off the butterfly stop screw with a 3/32” allen wrench until the butterfly is completely closed. Now. turn the screw in until the FAINTEST movement of the butterfly opening is detected. This can be done more easily with the throttle body removed. If you remove the throttle body, be sure to replace the gasket underneath it after thoroughly cleaning the old one off.

Revised 07/07/2012

 

Get a new bottle and the 703-1396 cap for it. Take the cap that comes in the box with the bottle and throw it as far as you can.

 

so far so good, with all the new parts. Only thing that gets me is the first start up yesterday it didn't want to start. Started right up on the second. I did notice the first start up I have low idle if it starts then after that its fine... Hmmm

 

sound familiar to anyone?

 

Yes. Try this:

Turn the key to ON at the first start of the day. Then Off and On, then Off and On, all without going to Start. Then turn to start. Is it better?

 

True enough, but it was you who told me to tighten it more when it leaked!

 

You do know Renix starts tad different than most? It will about never start with just a touch if the key. It needs nearly two seconds to complete a rev or two and reach 300 RPM before it will fire.

If it stumbles, runs a little rough for a second, maybe coughs a little black smoke, a leaky injector or two might be your issue. (mine did that with the old injectors) Sitting it would flood a cylinder or two.


Cruiser is suggesting trying "the poor man's prime". If the check valve in the fuel pump fails it takes linger for fuel pressure to come up after it's been sitting a while. Just turning it to ignition and back off a couple times primes it.

 

well I did the prime you talked about. It did start after that. It help the low rpms are always first start up of the day.... After that the rpms are fine. Have not seen black smoke yet
.. L

 

I did notice with the prime, that the first rotation of the key primes, seconds does not, third primes again... Shouldn't it hold pressure from the prime. Time to pressure test my fuel

 

Well, I looked and didn't find the spec. Yes. it's suppose to hold pressure when you turn it off. Might be it shouldn't drop more than 20# in 1/2 an hr. In any case the check-valve is IN the fuel pump. Few of us are going to change the pump just for that. I had thought mine was bad, but it started starting fine when I up-graded injectors. I suppose I was loosing pressure with leaking there, not the check valve.