YES!

 

Now this is good news! I might even have to give the wife a hug do to this good news!

I did test the map line and there's not a spot to leak on it though. Still, i want to do away with that crap line. Give it one more hour to cool and i'll fire her up to see if this band aid solves it. In the mean time, could the computer be a factor?

 

Okay to run without air intake hooked up, but hard to see the IAC. Flooding can be caused by the vac hose to MAP being bad like Flintstone says.

 

Yea, I asked Cruiser the same question once, any manifold Vac is fine. I do wonder, they went to some trouble to put it in the TB. On mine I heated and bent remnants of my old line, and spliced them with new rubber tube. Wanted the "L" at the TB, and the "Z" back on the firewall. Came out OK. (had to use an extractor to get the broken stub out of the rubber plug. (a screw would work))
I guess these ecu's are pretty hearty. Myself I'd be sure to rule out sensors and wires first unless I had another I could just stick in to check. Course Cruisers one who would know better.

 

What would cause it to only flood in open loop? What would also cause the open loop to remain running all the way up to 210? The only way to disable it is to shut the engine off and restart. I can always take the computer out, open her up and have a look see. I build wireless moduals at work all day long. I'm sure I have caps, resisters and various other fun stuff :-)

 

Well, I just started it and it was *fine*. At cold it idles at 700 and warm it idles at 1000. Just like it did before i fine tuned the TB. The butterfly is ever so cracked open getting little air into her. I know that map hose is fine although I am going to replace it and plug it after work tomorrow. I will fine tune the TB again and see if I still have the same results. I'm still thinking computer for some reason. The TPS is fine, the new CTS is testing great. The MAT is old but is testing out ok *remember my old CTS tested fine but was bad* Could the MAT cause it to run like crap in open loop and not go into closed loop mode? I am tempted for S&Gs to take my new O2 sensor *bosch* back. Warranty it out for an NGK. Would an O2 sensor be an issue?

 

Get the TB butterfly and the TPS set. For S&Gs, remove the ECU and look inside since that's your cup of tea. But, that's also a good time to clean the ECU connector and tweak the terminals to grasp the pins a bit tighter.

 

Sounds like you're thinking about the computer now. A stator wouldn't cause the issue would you think? I unplugged it to test and the only difference it makes is a longer crank time.

 

Stator is not it. I really don't "suspect" the ECU but with your experience gandering at that stuff, it's not a stone to leave unturned. Besides, I've seen a dirty connector at the eCU cause issues, so why not? You're gonna have skinned knuckles and cuss getting it out!! I only use 2 of the 3 bolts upon re-install.

 

Might want to pull the map tube off the map and feel for vac, in-case somehow it ended up plugged. Forget if that's been done...sometimes this feels like trying to tie your shoes with chopsticks!

 

Mr. Flinestone, I'm just going to plug that line and do away with it. No since in keeping it! Hey Crusier, what do you think of this mess? Please tell me all of these wires arn't stock. Now this is an older picture. I've replaced bad fuses.





Some of those hanging wires have empty spots for fuses. Should I pop a fuse in one? Is all of that normal?

 

Ecu only uses the o2 sensor in closed loop...matting the pedal while cranking means you're telling the ecu you've flooded it so it shuts down the injectors for a moment to clear, then energizes them again...right?

 

I'm still a newb when it comes to the renix, but it sounds like your injector pulse width correction factor is incorrect. The ecu defaults to open loop if this is the case. Bad o2 sensor/circuit, too high fuel pressure, or map problems...and I literally just read all this from the manual.

 

I saw that floored it will assume it's flooded, and not provide fuel until it senses 400 RPM.

^ Yea, lol. I'm "catching up" on 25 year old technology myself.

 

Well, I blocked off the MAP line, and built a Tee into my HVAC line. I replaced the spark plugs with Champion copper plugs *old ones were Champion platinum*. No avail. I tightened my manifold bolts maybe 1000 miles ago. Could the intake and manifold gasket be bad? Would that cause these issues? I know when it's doing the issue, you can smell fuel out the exhaust but, it doesn't run pig rich. Maybe a bad fuel injector? I took a vacuum line, held one end up to my ear and the other on every injector. I heard tick tick tick on them all. I do notice a hiss coming around the area of the number 6 injector. I would think a vacuum leak would cause a lean condition though. Not a rich.