I have this issue exactly. If I just leave my Jeep alone idling for about 15 minutes, I can drive it and never have this issue...until I turn it off and start it back up again. I have to wait about another 15 minutes for it to not try to die on me when I accelerate. Funny thing is, it doesn't always die during that first 15 minutes. Sometimes it'll behave!

Any ideas? Desperate. After a new TPS+adjustment (old one was bad), new IAC (seal on old one was bad, just bought a new one anyway), butterfly-valve re-adjust to 0.003", complete throttle-body cleaning, all new vacuum harness(es) (old lines were all removed). tightening of every intake-manifold bolt, my idle also much lower than I think it should be. Probably 200? Maybe 350 in Park. Battery is beefy, fully charged. 150AH 850CCA 1000CA.

Small note: Previous owner ran the Jeep out of oil once. It was stolen from them, ran into the ground (also quite literally, and without oil again). I now have it.

 

what year?

 

1990 XJ 4.0. My brain has forgotten anything else at the moment, a bit awestruck that you yourself are responding. I've been following your tips and book as much as I can, pure gold and very much appreciated.

 

I thought you might have been to the site when you mentioned .003" butterfly adjustment.

Now, let's get specific.

EXACTLY which tips have you completed?

 

Tips 1, 3, 5 (as best I could), 8 (although I was a little confused by which 'side' you meant), 11, 12, 14, 19, 22, 37 (already done for me).

Will be doing 31 soon. It artificially helped the situation and it was a bonehead move on my part, but I plead desperation.

 

Describe "best I could".

Those are very important tips.

 

That was relevant to tip 8, my bad. For Tip 8, I wasn't entirely certain on which connector ends to test. The Jeep is an automatic, so I tried at the 4-pin square connector. I could only get a reference of about 4.68V and I'm not sure why it isn't closer to 5V. Testing before the TPS yields 5V though. I set it for 3.88V (4.68*0.83).

 

That could be your issue. Don't worry about what the reference voltage is, as long as it's in the high 4s. Only set the TPS using the instructions for the flat connector.

 

About adjusting the TPS...I didn't quite understand the page in that it mentions to adjust the TPS for ECU and TCU issues...by rotating the TPS which affects both. I'm not sure how I can achieve adjustments on both if they change one another. I was setting the TPS by TCU-side.

I just noticed the comments-section on your site, specifically this post about sticking to ECU-side. I was setting by TCU-side and measuring on TCU-side.

This is what I have measured for this Automatic:
Using the 3-pin connector to the TPS, I measured pin B to battery at 1.1Ω, but no fluctuations even after jiggling/wiggling all harnesses.
Measuring (back-probing) voltage from pin A to B comes in at 4.923V.
Measuring (back-probing) voltage from pin C to B adjusted to 0.837V.

*Edit*

I adjusted via TCU-side... Seemed okay, stalled once in driveway but it is a rough driveway, thought it was me. Went up town and filled up on gas. Tried leaving, same issue. Stalled on acceleration out of a gas station and on a round-about with cars coming, yikes! Cranked and floored it out of the way. When I pulled into my driveway, it went up around 3K-RPMs and wouldn't come back down. Turned off, back on, up to 3K.

 

Use the flat connector, not the square one.
Shoot for .83v.
If after a few key cycles/starts, the idle is high, set it to .75 and see if that helps.

 

I uploaded a lack YouTube video of it idling, with and without A/C, and a second-half video showing its behavior. Somewhat managed to catch the moment it wants to keel over. I did readjust TPS to 0.83V, and tried 0.75V...still problematic. See YouTube description for more information.

 

Video no bueno por nada.

 

Figured but eh, no clue how to help others in hopes they might know what is wrong. I've tried adjusting the TPS, double-checking the wiring on it and the IAC, vacuum leaks, all I can think of but I don't know.

 

EGR valve hanging open?

 

I've never touched the EGR, now that I think about it. Will try tip 21.

*Edit* Failed Opening Test, but manually depressing it did lower RPM and kill engine if I didn't let up. EGR diaphragm is clogged, entirely, every port. Diaphragm is rusting and falling apart.

*Edit* I cleaned out the ports that feed the EGR and just clamped the hoses off for now, including the vacuum hose from the EGR solenoid. It hasn't stalled at all today. Still low idle, 300. 500 with A/C on. Intend to replace the EGR in time.

*Edit* Following up to call the stalling issue fixed.