Yup. Upon further inspection and cleaning of wires... The blue and yellow wires are crossed. Fixing this issue now. Also charged the a/c. At least now I know the e-fan is working with the a/c. Already put in two cans. Its emptying the cans and then pulling a vacuum on them. Normally I charge weak systems, not dry systems. I'm guessing this is normal?

How do you post images?

 

I got the wires repaired. Those damned butt connectors were an eyesore. Why do they still make those? Anyways I rechecked the tps voltage and pin C was still 0.09VDC. Decided I would fix that. Pin A was 4.94VDC so 17% is 0.84VDC. Closest I could get was 0.87VDC. seems to be running at a smooth 750 RPMs. I went ahead and pinned the accelerator to the floor in the driveway and the ecu is still holding up. That's not to say it'll blow up when I try to pin it on a test drive. First I'll finish servicing the a/c, then I'll test drive it. I'll update when complete.

 

Your TPS is probably bad if you can't get it into the range.

Did they do any handywork on the trans side of the TPS?

 

Fixing those wires did the trick. I didn't see any handy work on the trans side. It runs real good now. The trans even downshifts at half and full pedal. Fuel mileage has dropped substantially. I'm pretty certain its because I was blowing the cobwebs out of it. Cruiser and flintstone, I would like to thank both of you for being patient with me and this issue. Now I guess we know what switching those two wires will do. Now I'm scratching my head over the cruise control system. I had done some wiring repairs under the dash (brake switch connections) and fixed the vacuum line I broke. I've tried two different cruise computers. No luck with any of this. I also probed the system and have 12vdc going to the cruise computer. I couldn't get a voltage reading at the module, but figure I wouldn't unless I'm driving it. Could the vacuum module be bad? I dunno if this happens or not.

 

You'r welcome, good job! Are you familiar with the vacuum ball behind your front bumper? (on the right). There's diagram of (similar) in my signature. Vacuum to your cruse, (& heater controls) comes from there, and they crack/fall off.

 

Vac diagram

 

I have a good vacuum connection. The blend doors work perfect except under heavy acceleration. I need to replace the check valve at the intake side of the vacuum line. Had the same problem on my 99. Is there a light in the idiot cluster that indicates the cruise is on? If so, its not lighting up.

 

The vents switching is an indication of a leaking vacuum system.
No cruise light.

 

Before I tried everything I jerry rigged my brake bleeder to the vac lines one at a time. I had a huge vac leak when I initially purchased it.. I pulled a 5bar vac on each line for about a minute each. Turns out my brake booster has a hole rusted through the bottom of it. This test is another indication of a good vac seal. Like I said there is a check valve on the cruise/vent vac line I need to replace. My 99 used bleed off under heavy accel and the vents would slowly go back to park/defrost. Changed the check valve and haven't had them switch since. This is a symptom and fix I know all too well. I'm still leaning towards an electrical issue or a actual hard part failure.

 

Just to make sure I tried to pull another vacuum to test. Somehow I have another leak. I'll be hunting this down now. The vents still work normal but they do try to switch to park under heavy accel. I guess I'll be digging that ball out from the bumper. This jeep is almost unmolested so moving the splash guard will be a pain. Cruiser I know your image shows one vac line running from intake to ball with a couple Tee's in it, but do you know exactly what is supposed to tee off from it. Mine has a tee going to a tee then to the vents and cruise. Further down the line it looks to tee again into a red vac line. Emissions or 4wd maybe?

 

That image probably doesn't work for EVERY XJ. The lines from the ball, behind the battery, tend to disintegrate after decades of use. I always relocate the reservoir to the underside of the coolant bottle bracket and magically the issues disappear.

 

I have yet to find the vac leak. I did however dig into the wiring on the multi switch and was only able to ohm out the r/a part of the switch. I'm assuming the on and set switches are dead. I think to make this easier I will replace the entire vac line to the vents and cruise. I will hook up one system at a time to narrow down the leak location, if it happens to be in a component, by the good old process of elimination.

 

You can get a little hand operated vacuum pump with a gauge for around $10, I think.

 

Called a Mighty-Vac. Not $10 though.

 

Its about $25. Have one of those. That's what I've been using. Takes a while to pump up but works.