Replace (junk?) Putco relays on Plug/play H4 Headlight upgrade? Or use RJM harness?
#61
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 HO
Those square extractors were completely useless. I'll be throwing them in the garbage and getting the other kind that look like screws.
I tried a drill bit. Doesn't work. That was a dead end also. It just made a big divot in the screw head, but did not destroy the screw head enough to remove the light. I had to use a dremel and even that didn't really work. I have no idea how people can get flush to the screw head. This stuff takes serious experience.
#62
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Got this job done today!
Special thanks to carbuff, salad, dmill89, F1addict for their patience and explanations.
Only a few hiccups.
1) I am not sure where to secure the relays.
2) I don't know if the driver's light is grounded to a correct bolt.
Here is my write-up.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hea...inners-182360/
Special thanks to carbuff, salad, dmill89, F1addict for their patience and explanations.
Only a few hiccups.
1) I am not sure where to secure the relays.
2) I don't know if the driver's light is grounded to a correct bolt.
Here is my write-up.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hea...inners-182360/
#63
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: And then some!
Yes, thats basically it. Also you need to connect the 2 ground wires to ground. If you have been running the upgraded lights on the stock harness for 2 years and are having problems with the headlight switch, its possible that it is bad, possibly melted. Mine was bad. I replaced it with a new one from ebay, around $15.
#64
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Got this job done today!
Special thanks to carbuff, salad, dmill89, F1addict for their patience and explanations.
Only a few hiccups.
1) I am not sure where to secure the relays.
2) I don't know if the driver's light is grounded to a correct bolt.
Here is my write-up.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hea...inners-182360/
Special thanks to carbuff, salad, dmill89, F1addict for their patience and explanations.
Only a few hiccups.
1) I am not sure where to secure the relays.
2) I don't know if the driver's light is grounded to a correct bolt.
Here is my write-up.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/hea...inners-182360/
#65
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
carbuff,
I've never drilled a hole for a screw to go in.
How do you match screws to the hole you drilled?
Do sheet metal screws come designated with a size that matches a drill bit? (1/8")
Do you use a special drill bit that creates a thread for a screw?
I am going to leave my grounds since the lights seem to be working.
I've never drilled a hole for a screw to go in.
How do you match screws to the hole you drilled?
Do sheet metal screws come designated with a size that matches a drill bit? (1/8")
Do you use a special drill bit that creates a thread for a screw?
I am going to leave my grounds since the lights seem to be working.
#66
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Engine: 4.0
Self-drilling screws are great for grounding. Just make sure you know what's behind whatever you're drilling into!
http://www.grainger.com/category/sel...ecatalog/N-8n3
http://www.grainger.com/category/sel...ecatalog/N-8n3
#69
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Year: 1990
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#70
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Engine: 4.0
"Self-drilling".
That's what they're called. That's what they do.
Self-tapping screws are not the same as self-drilling screws.
Self-drilling screws drill their own hole. Just put a drill on it, with the appropriate bit. The tip is shaped like a drill bit, and it drills its own hole, and threads right in. That's why it's called "self-drilling".
A self tapping screw needs to have a hole drilled. Then it taps its own threads. That's why it's called "self-tapping".
Some people can't seem to understand they are different, but there's a reason they have different names.
Self-drilling screws are very easy to use. Just don't get a 2" screw and run it through a radiator or brake line or wiring harness.
1/2" is fine for grounding.
#71
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
carbuff,
I've never drilled a hole for a screw to go in.
How do you match screws to the hole you drilled?
Do sheet metal screws come designated with a size that matches a drill bit? (1/8")
Do you use a special drill bit that creates a thread for a screw?
I am going to leave my grounds since the lights seem to be working.
I've never drilled a hole for a screw to go in.
How do you match screws to the hole you drilled?
Do sheet metal screws come designated with a size that matches a drill bit? (1/8")
Do you use a special drill bit that creates a thread for a screw?
I am going to leave my grounds since the lights seem to be working.
I drilled very small pilot holes and then forced the screws in while I turned them just enough to get them started. Id say the bit needs to be half the diameter of the screw or less. Just enough to get the tip started. Once youve got them snug there is no need to crank them down. These are the screws I used. I always have a pack of these in the house. I use them for lots of fixes and stuff.
#72
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Putting the relays in front of that cavity is not a problem, I guess. I was almost tempted to just tuck the relays INTO that cavity. I'll try that location. Any deeper into the engine bay, and there was no room, b/c of the horn-like thing.
#75
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee