I need to replace my engine mounts Again. This time I'm doing the trans mount as well, but this is where ide like some advice on which order to do these in.

I do have a TC drop on my 99 auto. The Bdog motor mounts are tilted down because the rubber is splitting, completely from the tc drop, other wise ide think they would still be fine.

I also plan on removing the TC drop while doing this.

should I do the trans mount first and somewhat hope it levels the engine, or support the rear half of the drive train and then proceed with the motor mounts first? My concern is getting everything to fit while removing the angle from the tc drop.

thanks for any ideas

 

do trans mount first.

that way, when the engine/trans droops down to change the trans mount, if it tears the engine mounts up, so what.

 

I just did my trans and motor mounts. I did my trans mount first and torqued the bolts down to spec.
When I lifted the motor to do the motor mounts it was putting way too much pressure on the trans mount studs. I actually thought they were going to snap.

I would highly recommend first removing the cross member, t-case drop, and the trans. mount.
After that install the new trans mount (top bolts only), then install the cross member.
Put the nuts on the transmission mount studs less than half way. That way the trans can pivot, but the studs wont slip off of the cross member.

Then completely do the motor mounts
Then go back and torque the lower trans mount bolts.

 

Yes, you should always loosen the transmission mounting bolts/nuts before changing out the motor mounts so the engine/transmission has some room to move.

I agree with the others, tranny mount first then motor mounts. Give yourself enough time to do all three in the same sitting so you only get your hands dirty once.

 

Ok, I know this thread is pretty old but, seems like the right place.
So I messed up and did the engine mounts first. I still have a clunking sound somewhere
and I'm headed to do the trans mount next before further investigation.
My question here is, does it make sense to loosen the engine mounts before
I start in on the tans mount?

Many thanks,
Andy

 

You shouldn't have to loosen the motor mounts, the engine should rotate up/down a bit on them by design which is what you're looking for when replacing the transmission mount.

Just make sure you're supporting the transmission safely and correctly and you will be fine.

Take a peek at your exhaust pipe where it comes over the cross-member. This is a notorious source of clunking on these vehicles.

 

many thanks PatHenry!

 

Anytime! You may be aware of this already, but make sure you buy a decent quality transmission mount. They vary greatly in terms of quality (at least, that's how it was a few years back) and the cheapo ones would fail quickly and were too short (so the exhaust would clunk). Avoid Anchor brand, Napa brand was good.

 

On additional note, take attention to the way your trans mount is installed. These are offset mounting and can easily be installed "backwards" kicking the trans one way-vs the other. You will catch it if you look at the new one prior

 

Thanks Jeep Guy, I bought it some time ago but, it was either from nappa or rock auto. I found it last night still wrapped in plastic and smelling like a new tire. Pretty sure I got a decent one and was sure to buy the offset. But, I didn't realize you could still put that on wrong!

Many thanks,
Andy

 

Totally correct...mark it with nail polish (or something)

I forgot, and of course put it in backwards

a few minutes of swearing before I realize, the x-member is heavy at the end of the job and is just gagging to whack you in the face as you try to work out why the holes dont line up

The 18mm bolts that retain the mount to trans should have blue loctite, so that was doubly annoying

No need to loosen engine mounts at all. just support trans with wood under jack, only needs lowering about 1"

 

Thanks for that awg, do you mean that it did not have loctite and that made it more difficult? I read somewhere else to use anti-seize - so do I want to lock down the 18mm or make sure I can break em loose at a later date?
I know this sounds very newbie but, I'd hope to get it right!

Many thanks,
Andy

 

The rod going through the mount for the front pipe is welded wrong on the replacement exhausts, letting the pipe bang on the crossmember, especially if the rubber on the mount is worn. I moved the exhaust up by hammering a bolt in alongside the front pipe mount rod. Replacing the no longer available rubber insert or bending the rod on the pipe would be a more permanent solution.