Good gravy, this took all day and I still messed it up. It is cobbled together like a YouTuber rig.

Confirmed, 4 AWG positives, not 2 AWG. They just look bigger when they unravel.



Old



Old different angle.


New

I am going to have to redo my cables in the spring or so. I do like those compression connectors from Del City. However, I ended up using a 4 AWG connector on the negative but pretty sure those are 6 and 8 AWG. 4 AWG still fit it. Instead of testing my luck by using the 2 AWG terminals on the positives, I used a 4 AWG and had a spare 4 crimp on copper.

So the starter cable has a big hefty 4 AWG screw down compression lug and the power block has the crimp on copper 4 AWG. The crimped copper has a hole that is too small for my military style terminals. And my drill bits seem to have walked off with my 1/2" Craftsman ratchet and my 3/8" too. So, from the old cruddy terminals I robbed a smaller terminal bolt and used it for the clamping bolt on the new terminals, and attached the crimped terminal to that. Wanted to use it for the terminal side, but it was too short.

Thus, the temporary mess you see above.

Edit: No codes (other than 12), so my catalytic converter is clean again!

 

Nice job,

 

I went back in today and tried to open up the hole on that copper 4 AWG terminal. Of course, did not stick it against a block of wood and broke it. Went to O'Reilly and got a replacement cable, all they had was black with plain terminals on the ends, so stuck some shrink tube over it and installed.

Going to replace the cables next year sometime. The stock ones look like really good wire, but they have gotten pretty stiff.

Looking at the starter wire, it seems that could be routed better than the way the factory did it. Maybe not. Just seems like it would be better if it came up from the starter and went along the inner fender panel, under the PDC, and to the battery. Use a nylon holder to anchor it along the way to an existing bolt.

Right now (still factory routing) it runs under the oil filter and adapter, up over and behind the motor mount.

 

I cut the ends off the wire going to the starter at the top and bottom of the loom and ran a 51" new 4AWG wire my own way. If it works for you,try it.

 

When I get back to this I'm probably doing that with 2 AWG.

Wondering if this boot will fit over the starter cable grommet clean, or if it just going to be a mess in the way.

http://www.bestboatwire.com/lug-or-r...to-2-0-awg-red

Edit: If you used 51" it is a good thing that I figured 5' of red 2 AWG for the starter and the PDC. Maybe I should add another foot for mistakes and practice.

 

Now that is a funny line!

 

These individuals who sell battery cables on this site and others I believe cut it fine when dealing with length. I did about 5 Jeep XJ's replacing battery cables. I made sure I had enough length. Unless you want the engine compartment to look real pretty, what difference does a little extra length of wire mean or an extra wire in a loom that has the ends cut off??

 

OK, this settles it. Sticking with my hammer crimper and not bothering with the other stuff when I make new cables.

 

We make battery cables at the store. But we solder not crimp.
I went back and forth trying to research what is better.
Decided to go with crimping.
That was the one of the videos I watched trying to get a handle on crimping.
And even though I went with the Harbor Freight crimper was amazed at how well the hammer crimper seemed work.

 

If you are looking for a good 2 gauge cable when you do the replacement, I got some 2 gauge ultra flex welding cable from weldingsupply.com. I used this when I added the aux battery to my pickup. I got 100 feet of it, and only used about 50 feet for the battery and used the other 50 feet to make a set of jumper cables. I did crimp them, and then added some solder into the end. This cable is extremely flexible (2700 strands of copper). It's been about 7 years with no problems