replaced rear shocks; broke upper bolts
#1
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Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
replaced rear shocks; broke upper bolts
as the title states, i replaced my rear shocks and broke all 4 of the upper bolts.
right or wrong, here was my remedy:
using a punch...i drove the remainer of the bolt out, unfortunately taking the thread insert with it.
fished in grade 8 flange bolts through the triangle shaped cutout on the underside of the body. i used a magnet to feed the bolt in and a very small straight screwdriver to grab the bolt through the hole and flip it upright/make it available to grab with my fingers, then i just pulled it down flush. i used grade 8 lock nuts, not the ones with plastic on them. these were the ones that the holes look oblong shaped and were a real pita to get tightened down in this particular instance. i used the open end of a long wrench to hold the head of the bolt while tightening the nut with a 3/8 ratchet and a couple extensions (1/2" socket).
tools i used:
clear safety goggles
hammer
punch
3/8 drive ratchet with a couple extensions
3/8 drive socket - 1/2" size (upper bolts)
1/2" drive ratchet and corresponding 18mm socket (big lower nut on)
1/2" open end wrench
magnet - i had 2. a short(er), thin one that had one joint in it, maybe 6" total length. and a larger one with a screwdriver type handle and bendable shank that was maybe 18" long. i had the most success with the large one.
total time: 75 minutes
did the driver's side first - did this simply laying on the ground. gathering tools, figuring out approach to fishing bolts in. straight forward removal/install. *the distance from the opening in the body and the bolt holes is greater on the driver side.* this side took me about 50 mins total.
passenger side - because the exhaust and ebrake cable were kind of in the way i increased the work area by the top of the shock by jacking up the rear of the jeep using the rear dif. i put one stand on the driver's side of the axle tube and one stand on the pass side along the "frame" right in front of the rear tire. when i let down the dif the pass side of the axle hung lower giving a lot more room to work. because i had already done the driver's side bolt removal/new bolt install this side didn't take very long at all. got that **** figured out! roughly 25 mins total including the time to get out the jack and stands, jack it up etc then removal and putting all of the tools away.
the old shocks wouldn't even decompress once i pushed them together. pretty sure they were the factory ones. both showed evidence of leakage. i also swapped out my steering stabilizer, as it showed signs of leakage, as well.
all i have left to do are the front shocks and i'll prob do those next weekend. just thought i'd share. i wasn't in the picture taking mood as i had water dripping on me the whole time (it's raining here and i drove the jeep before working on it) and everytime i hit the punch a large amount of dirt, dust, rocks, rust, general crap would fall on me.
right or wrong, here was my remedy:
using a punch...i drove the remainer of the bolt out, unfortunately taking the thread insert with it.
fished in grade 8 flange bolts through the triangle shaped cutout on the underside of the body. i used a magnet to feed the bolt in and a very small straight screwdriver to grab the bolt through the hole and flip it upright/make it available to grab with my fingers, then i just pulled it down flush. i used grade 8 lock nuts, not the ones with plastic on them. these were the ones that the holes look oblong shaped and were a real pita to get tightened down in this particular instance. i used the open end of a long wrench to hold the head of the bolt while tightening the nut with a 3/8 ratchet and a couple extensions (1/2" socket).
tools i used:
clear safety goggles
hammer
punch
3/8 drive ratchet with a couple extensions
3/8 drive socket - 1/2" size (upper bolts)
1/2" drive ratchet and corresponding 18mm socket (big lower nut on)
1/2" open end wrench
magnet - i had 2. a short(er), thin one that had one joint in it, maybe 6" total length. and a larger one with a screwdriver type handle and bendable shank that was maybe 18" long. i had the most success with the large one.
total time: 75 minutes
did the driver's side first - did this simply laying on the ground. gathering tools, figuring out approach to fishing bolts in. straight forward removal/install. *the distance from the opening in the body and the bolt holes is greater on the driver side.* this side took me about 50 mins total.
passenger side - because the exhaust and ebrake cable were kind of in the way i increased the work area by the top of the shock by jacking up the rear of the jeep using the rear dif. i put one stand on the driver's side of the axle tube and one stand on the pass side along the "frame" right in front of the rear tire. when i let down the dif the pass side of the axle hung lower giving a lot more room to work. because i had already done the driver's side bolt removal/new bolt install this side didn't take very long at all. got that **** figured out! roughly 25 mins total including the time to get out the jack and stands, jack it up etc then removal and putting all of the tools away.
the old shocks wouldn't even decompress once i pushed them together. pretty sure they were the factory ones. both showed evidence of leakage. i also swapped out my steering stabilizer, as it showed signs of leakage, as well.
all i have left to do are the front shocks and i'll prob do those next weekend. just thought i'd share. i wasn't in the picture taking mood as i had water dripping on me the whole time (it's raining here and i drove the jeep before working on it) and everytime i hit the punch a large amount of dirt, dust, rocks, rust, general crap would fall on me.
#3
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Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 5.0
It's standard operating procedure. It's quicker and nicer than cutting holes in the floor too. I also did the bar pin eliminators even tho the bolts oddly enough came out on my 86.
#4
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Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
damn those bar pin eliminators look nice. wish I had seen that. I didn't read anything first though. I took to working and dealt with the issue as quickly as it started.
#5
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
These are a terrific option too. It's what I used on mine.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CHEROKEE-XJ-REAR-SHOCK-MOUNT-PLATES-HEAVY-DUTY-/190579652607?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5f6eb7ff&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEEP-CHEROKEE-XJ-REAR-SHOCK-MOUNT-PLATES-HEAVY-DUTY-/190579652607?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5f6eb7ff&vxp=mtr
#6
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Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
well the deed is done and when they need replaced again i'll just do what I did this time if they don't cooperate.
must say, it rides a LOT better now. it doesn't feel like I have rebar in place of the shocks. can't wait to replace the fronts.
must say, it rides a LOT better now. it doesn't feel like I have rebar in place of the shocks. can't wait to replace the fronts.
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#8
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Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
yeah everyone raves about these xjs. they don't tell you about all of the little **** involved with simple, general maintenance haha. oh well. I enjoy working on stuff and these things are super easy to deal with. parts are cheap.
I just need to buy my c6z to occupy the empty space in my garage next to the jeep and i'll be happy.
I just need to buy my c6z to occupy the empty space in my garage next to the jeep and i'll be happy.
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