Replacement Leaf Spring Parts
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JAM3rd (10-01-2023)
06-30-2019, 08:59 AM
#19
Newbie
We have a suspension shop, called The Suspension Shop, in Omaha that almost always has on hand all of the parts for this job and they are VERY reasonable. You may look and call a few places there in Chicago, as I'm sure you have a similar shop that could provide about anything you need. I get parts for our dept at the local comm college and I use this shop almost exclusively for springs, hangers, shackles, bolts, they bend ubolts while you wait. I'm sure you have a similar shop locally.
07-09-2019, 10:14 AM
#21
Newbie
Thread Starter
I wasn't able to begin doing this as I've had some problems this past week changing the ball joints and tie rods. I bought the leaf springs and parts, but don't think I'll be able to change them until next year as there is other work and life stuff going on. From doing the ball joints, I've learned a ton and I'll definitely begin working on breaking the rust/grime weld on the various leaf spring nuts and bolts in the meantime. Hopefully that will make the actual replacement easier--from what I understand, dealing with removing everything is 90% of the work.
I've gotten much, much better at removing old rusted nuts and bolts--wire brush area, apply MAP heat, douse with PBB, bang with hammer/chisel, try/wait/repeat. I would definitely recommend beginning as early as possible on the nuts/bolts. For the ball joints, the 3 hub bolts took and axle nut took me about a day to get out as I had to be patient and take several breaks to allow the PBB to do it's thing, or risk breaking the bolt or ratchet.
I've gotten much, much better at removing old rusted nuts and bolts--wire brush area, apply MAP heat, douse with PBB, bang with hammer/chisel, try/wait/repeat. I would definitely recommend beginning as early as possible on the nuts/bolts. For the ball joints, the 3 hub bolts took and axle nut took me about a day to get out as I had to be patient and take several breaks to allow the PBB to do it's thing, or risk breaking the bolt or ratchet.
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PatHenry (07-10-2019)
07-09-2019, 10:26 AM
#22
CF Veteran
Hey guys,
PBB is good stuff for sure but if your going to use a lot of it go with a 50/50 mixture of acetone and any auto trans fluid (any type will do). I use a metal spray bottle and mix as needed. If mixed in large quantities and left to sit the acetone will evaporate. Leave the lid loose on the container if not in use because pressure builds up. If I see rust anywhere while working something I spray it down.
PBB is good stuff for sure but if your going to use a lot of it go with a 50/50 mixture of acetone and any auto trans fluid (any type will do). I use a metal spray bottle and mix as needed. If mixed in large quantities and left to sit the acetone will evaporate. Leave the lid loose on the container if not in use because pressure builds up. If I see rust anywhere while working something I spray it down.
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PatHenry (07-10-2019)
07-10-2019, 10:28 AM
#23
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Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Groton, MA
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
I wasn't able to begin doing this as I've had some problems this past week changing the ball joints and tie rods. I bought the leaf springs and parts, but don't think I'll be able to change them until next year as there is other work and life stuff going on. From doing the ball joints, I've learned a ton and I'll definitely begin working on breaking the rust/grime weld on the various leaf spring nuts and bolts in the meantime. Hopefully that will make the actual replacement easier--from what I understand, dealing with removing everything is 90% of the work.
I've gotten much, much better at removing old rusted nuts and bolts--wire brush area, apply MAP heat, douse with PBB, bang with hammer/chisel, try/wait/repeat. I would definitely recommend beginning as early as possible on the nuts/bolts. For the ball joints, the 3 hub bolts took and axle nut took me about a day to get out as I had to be patient and take several breaks to allow the PBB to do it's thing, or risk breaking the bolt or ratchet.
I've gotten much, much better at removing old rusted nuts and bolts--wire brush area, apply MAP heat, douse with PBB, bang with hammer/chisel, try/wait/repeat. I would definitely recommend beginning as early as possible on the nuts/bolts. For the ball joints, the 3 hub bolts took and axle nut took me about a day to get out as I had to be patient and take several breaks to allow the PBB to do it's thing, or risk breaking the bolt or ratchet.
At least if you'd broken one of the hub bolts (and were replacing the hub), it wouldn't have been a really big deal since even if they broke, the hub would still come out and it would just be dealing with getting a new bolt. If you DID NOT have a heck of a time separating the knuckle from the old ball joints (this was the longest part when I first did my 95's), that's a good sign.
Still do yourself a favor and jab at the floor above the leaf spring brackets (front AND rear) with a screwdriver NOW to make sure that the floors are not rotten. If they are, when you go to heat the spring bolts you can easily set your carpet on fire. Ask me how I know.
07-10-2019, 11:58 AM
#24
CF Veteran
Still do yourself a favor and jab at the floor above the leaf spring brackets (front AND rear) with a screwdriver NOW to make sure that the floors are not rotten. If they are, when you go to heat the spring bolts you can easily set your carpet on fire. Ask me how I know.
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JAM3rd (10-01-2023)
07-11-2019, 01:32 AM
#26
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Hey guys,
PBB is good stuff for sure but if your going to use a lot of it go with a 50/50 mixture of acetone and any auto trans fluid (any type will do). I use a metal spray bottle and mix as needed. If mixed in large quantities and left to sit the acetone will evaporate. Leave the lid loose on the container if not in use because pressure builds up. If I see rust anywhere while working something I spray it down.
PBB is good stuff for sure but if your going to use a lot of it go with a 50/50 mixture of acetone and any auto trans fluid (any type will do). I use a metal spray bottle and mix as needed. If mixed in large quantities and left to sit the acetone will evaporate. Leave the lid loose on the container if not in use because pressure builds up. If I see rust anywhere while working something I spray it down.
I buy PB Blaster by the gallon. Thinking this is better then using spray cans. Does not seem to effect the cheap plastic spray bottles I use.
Home Depot sells it for $20 all the time.
As some of you guys might know I Fluid Film under the Jeep every October for the winter.
Power wash off in April. But for the warmer months I spot underneath with Fluid Film.
One thing I have been doing is spraying down certain areas, such as leaf spring bolts, with the PB Blaster.
Then "sealing" it in with Fluid Film. Been doing this for a few years now.
All in anticipation of someday replacing the suspension in the Jeep. LOL.
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