Replacing Ball Joints - anything else that should be done?
#16
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Tie rods do wear out, usually the rubber boots harden and crack and allow crap into the joint (technically they are basically ball joints as well.)
My TJ had over 200k before I replaced a tie rod.. with a 23 year old vehicle you never know.
I put Autozone brand tie rods (low price, sometimes low quality) on my Jeep and got 80k without any trouble, so you should be just fine with Napa parts.
My TJ had over 200k before I replaced a tie rod.. with a 23 year old vehicle you never know.
I put Autozone brand tie rods (low price, sometimes low quality) on my Jeep and got 80k without any trouble, so you should be just fine with Napa parts.
#17
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Year: 1995
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I don't know the exact size off-hand, but the 2 that you'd need (the outer tie rods at the steering knuckle) are a bit smaller than the pin for the upper ball joint.
I would (and did) just go to the hardware store and grab a variety of sizes with an average of 1.5" lengths. The size doesn't have to be exact, it just needs to fit through the hole, but not pull through (meaning the straight end fits but the loop end is big enough to not.) with enough pin to bend sufficiently around the castle nut.
All of the new parts (ball joints, tie-rod ends) will come with the correct pin and a new castle nut.
I would (and did) just go to the hardware store and grab a variety of sizes with an average of 1.5" lengths. The size doesn't have to be exact, it just needs to fit through the hole, but not pull through (meaning the straight end fits but the loop end is big enough to not.) with enough pin to bend sufficiently around the castle nut.
All of the new parts (ball joints, tie-rod ends) will come with the correct pin and a new castle nut.
#18
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
If you want to spend a few hundred dollars you could replace all the tie-rod stuff.
You don't need the wheels disassembled for replacing tie-rods.
One thing you could do is crawl under the front of your Jeep with a good light and inspect all the tie-rod joints. Any with ripped boots or that can be moved by hand should be replaced.
I discovered the ripped boot when removing the tie-rod from the knuckle, the rip was not easy to see under the knuckle part but very obvious when it was disconnected.
You don't need the wheels disassembled for replacing tie-rods.
One thing you could do is crawl under the front of your Jeep with a good light and inspect all the tie-rod joints. Any with ripped boots or that can be moved by hand should be replaced.
I discovered the ripped boot when removing the tie-rod from the knuckle, the rip was not easy to see under the knuckle part but very obvious when it was disconnected.
#20
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BTW - My alignment went great.
I noticed on the highway (this is pre-alignment) that the "roughness" that I was experiencing when over 55mph was corrected with the new ball joints. I didn't think they were that bad, but I guess they were. It's funny because my Jeep passed MA state inspection (which is pretty strict) less than 2 months/>600 miles ago and ball joints is definitely something that needs to pass to get a sticker.
I noticed on the highway (this is pre-alignment) that the "roughness" that I was experiencing when over 55mph was corrected with the new ball joints. I didn't think they were that bad, but I guess they were. It's funny because my Jeep passed MA state inspection (which is pretty strict) less than 2 months/>600 miles ago and ball joints is definitely something that needs to pass to get a sticker.
#21
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I did ball joints on my wife's 01 over the past summer. I used Napa parts. They actually weren't bad except one of the four was a little loose. Also did the hubs even though only one was slightly loose. Also I had warped rotors. The combo of all three gave a nasty shimmy so that's why I did it. It had just under 210k on it and the parts were all original.
I only had a hard time pressing one of the uppers in. The rest went smooth. Just use a lot of penetrating oil and maybe have a small torch handy. I also did not unbolt the steering from the knuckles. Just swung them away and propped them up so the weight wasn't on the steering. I also needed to borrow a torque wrench to torque the axle/hub nut. My wrench maxed at 180 foot pounds and the spec for the nut is higher. Also I purchased the 36mm socket for the nut.
I only had a hard time pressing one of the uppers in. The rest went smooth. Just use a lot of penetrating oil and maybe have a small torch handy. I also did not unbolt the steering from the knuckles. Just swung them away and propped them up so the weight wasn't on the steering. I also needed to borrow a torque wrench to torque the axle/hub nut. My wrench maxed at 180 foot pounds and the spec for the nut is higher. Also I purchased the 36mm socket for the nut.
#22
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Sorry but the torque spec for the axle nut is 180. My wrench only goes to 150. I had to correct that as it didn't sound right once I hit post.
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I did the ball joints, hubs, and axle u-joints on a Saturday. Everything else you can access without even taking the wheels off (other than brakes and springs)
#24
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Ball joints are not hard to do, just time consuming.
I will say I felt real old and out of shape after doing mine - I was really sore the next day from all the pushing and pulling on breaker bars.
Also I had trouble getting the upper joint to go in straight, even with the Dodge/Jeep adapters in the Advance loaner press.
I will say I felt real old and out of shape after doing mine - I was really sore the next day from all the pushing and pulling on breaker bars.
Also I had trouble getting the upper joint to go in straight, even with the Dodge/Jeep adapters in the Advance loaner press.
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I always blame my desk job for the soreness... If I moved around a little more during the day every day, yanking on breaker bars on evenings/weekends wouldn't have such painful consequences.
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Year: 1995
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Usually I'm fine, normally it's just a couple heavy pulls on a breaker in most stuff I've had to do, but man, the several heavy pulls to press out the old joints and the couple heavy pulls to seat the new joints all the way totally did me in.
When I did the ball joints a couple times on my previous Jeep I was never that sore - but that was years ago. The difference between doing that stuff in my late 20's, early 30's and the same stuff in my late 30's was huge.
When I did the ball joints a couple times on my previous Jeep I was never that sore - but that was years ago. The difference between doing that stuff in my late 20's, early 30's and the same stuff in my late 30's was huge.
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....aaaand of course it only gets worse. Well, sorta. I started exercising again recently and it has definitely improved things. Usually I get busy early Spring and I pay for my sedentary Winter lifestyle.
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