Tony_SS

Ok, so I made more progress in my spare time.

Last night I got the e12 bolts off. Since I have the head removed, I was able to put a 5/16" (I think) 12 point wrench back there and use a pry bar to turn it. The other one I used the wrench and put a block of wood on it and hit it with a sledge hammer to break it loose. This was after I broke some cheap e12 wrench... so that's what worked for me.

As for the other things, there is the myths floating around that the front header must be pulled to remove the radiator - that's not true either.

I'll post up progress pics and maybe a video to help anyone who needs to do this. It's going pretty good so far. And WD-40 penetrating rust remover is much better than PB blaster I'm finding out.

One thing I'm a little worried about is putting the new short block on an engine stand... I got some grade 8 bolts for the housing, but all that front end weight on those 4 bolts????

ThatPurpleXJ

I just got done throwing an engine in my jeep too. As far as the engine stand use your grade 8s and mount them where the two e12s were and use the two large bolts on the side by the pan.

I used a cheap harbor freight 750lb engine stand and it held my long block fine. Even with most accessories I could wheel it around and spin it to my hearts content

Cherockee

No need to really worry too much about that, but do be careful. When wrenching on the front of the motor always make sure the handel of the wrench is moving upwards.

My long block hung on my engine stand for two years while I collected parts. As you can see in my avatar it'll hold it even with everything mounted up (except the AC).

If it's on wheels you may want to block it while you torque down things like the head, bearing caps, rocker arms, etc.

Tony_SS

Good to know, thanks fellas.

Tony_SS

Pulling the engine.. I took out the mounts all the way to get it off the transmission.


I took of the oil pick up and flywheel while it was on the hoist.
A creeper worked great to strap it down and strip off the rest of the parts.


Parts cleaning


This stuff works amazing..full strength.


Empty bay. I used a bottle jack and 2x4 to support the trans.


New block on the stand


New oil pump and pickup


All assembled and ready to drop in. You can see the studs I put in place on the HB so I could put a prybar in there while I cranked down the flywheel bolts. That was a 2 man job. It kept it on TDC.




And it is finally in place and bolted to the trans with the lower bolts. Later I will do the upper housing bolts. Replacing them with a standard head ones of course.


Now the fun part, putting everything back together. I did forget to drop the lifters in so I'll do that next.

DFlintstone

You can put a new lifter in a can of oil and work it with a pushrod until it quits making bubbles to prime it.

belvedere

I don't recommend this. They'll pump up by themselves once the engine starts.

Bustedback

Just letting the lifters soak over night in oil will work just fine. No need to burn calories pumping them up by hand.

Tony_SS

Head's on, everything primed.. oil shot out the pressure sensor hole (forgot to put the sensor it) and flex plate is mounted to the TC.... manifolds are going on now... no dowels in the new head %)*)*%$ so that is the hold up.

DFlintstone

10-4 Guys. Something I heard somewhere. I've only bought new lifters a couple if times, and oil anything new!

Stop "forgetting" Tony

Tony_SS

Good news and bad news...mostly good.

I fired it up. It was a rough stumbling start for the first few seconds until I was able to rev it up to 2000 rpm then it smoothed out pretty quick. Is this normal for a new rebuilt engine?

After that it ran great ar 2000. I let it run for about 10min and then the trans line cooler at the radiator started leaking pretty good. I shut her down and am waiting to fix that.

Other than that I have a few studs on the oil pan that are dripping some..just from the studs. Kind of weird... I guess I'll tighten those down and hope they seal up.

Also it idled great too. Oil pressure is 55 at 210º at 2000 rpm and drops to about 30psi at idle.. so I'm really happy about that. No other weirdness to report.

This is my first time doing anything like this. In past the biggest thing I've done was put an intake manifold on so at this is me patting myself on the back here. I can't wait to get the leaks sealed up and get it road ready for the winter.

Pics coming on Tues.

cherokeelaredo'90

When I first strted my rebuilt motor it spewed gas everywhere because the fpr oring was done. Slapped a new fpr in and she was golden. Anyways enough about me, nice work man! I'm glad you got it running that's always a good sign.

Kalali

Good work and nice pictures. Did you use the head bolt locations for mounting the chain to hoist the motor? Also was wondering why not mount the head before dropping the engine?
Thanks.

ExTrEmExJ99

why did you tear the motor down before you removed it?

Tony_SS

Yes I used the head bolt for hoist the engine... prolly not the best idea but I was carefully not to crank too hard to avoid damage.

And I did it this way so I could easily get to the PITA bolts on the upper housing. With the head removed i was able to remove and install them super easy.