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Replacing leaf springs tips & tricks?
12-13-2013, 05:18 PM
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Replacing leaf springs tips & tricks?
I'm about to start replacing my broken leaf spring, anyone know any good tips on how to get this done I've pb blasted and liquid wrenches all the nuts bolts etc.. Any tips are appreciated thanks!
12-13-2013, 05:33 PM
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Try to break the bolts loose before you jack the Jeep up.
If one is not coming loose, try tightening it first to break the tension of the corrosion.<---salad tip
If one is not coming loose, try tightening it first to break the tension of the corrosion.<---salad tip
12-13-2013, 06:26 PM
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Have a Torch ready... any not one of those puny propane type.
The most common problem is the bolts are rusted to the metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing- an area that you wont' be able to get any liquids to. An acetylene torch is probably the best/quickest method for busting these bolts out. If you start cutting, you're going to end up with a mess and a lot of work.
Good luck to ya.
The most common problem is the bolts are rusted to the metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing- an area that you wont' be able to get any liquids to. An acetylene torch is probably the best/quickest method for busting these bolts out. If you start cutting, you're going to end up with a mess and a lot of work.
Good luck to ya.
12-13-2013, 08:22 PM
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Year: 1999
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I soaked mine in liquid wrench for a couple days. I hsve an '89, and they came right off.
One problem I had was the long bolt not lining up with the space on the spring perch when I was putting it back together. My dad kicked the axle and it fit. So if that happens.. shift the axle forward or backward. Amateur mistake, but I didn't even think of it.
One problem I had was the long bolt not lining up with the space on the spring perch when I was putting it back together. My dad kicked the axle and it fit. So if that happens.. shift the axle forward or backward. Amateur mistake, but I didn't even think of it.
12-13-2013, 11:20 PM
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Have a Torch ready... any not one of those puny propane type. The most common problem is the bolts are rusted to the metal sleeve inside the rubber bushing- an area that you wont' be able to get any liquids to. An acetylene torch is probably the best/quickest method for busting these bolts out. If you start cutting, you're going to end up with a mess and a lot of work. Good luck to ya.
12-13-2013, 11:36 PM
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12-13-2013, 11:43 PM
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12-14-2013, 01:13 AM
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If you're replacing the entire spring, save yourself the hassle and get new hardware. For the DIYer without a welder, the biggest problems are breaking or stripping the welded nut against the frame, and mutilating the box that the bolt rides through. Lots of penetrating oil, heat, and patience are key.
For the bolts into the frame, I agree with others here. Let the axle droop down and then put it on stands so that there's as little tension as possible on the suspension. Presumably you've been soaking the fasteners with penetrating oil for a few days. Heat up the bolt and nut end and give it a go with the breaker bar. Minimum 24". Once you get it to move out a little bit, give it some more oil and turn it backwards. Heat cycling can break rust and open new paths for penetrating oil, as well as exposing threads and driving them back in will get more oil into the seized part as well. Lots of oil lol.
If your rust isn't that bad a simple propane torch and only one can of PB Blaster might pull it off for you lol. Under my Jeep you couldn't tell that anything was ever painted down there, my bushing eyes were rusted so badly I wound up just cutting things off simply to free the bolts up! Don't be surprised if you're working on a bolt and you see one of the mounts starting to bend: that means the shackle is frozen to it (also happens if you can't turn the bolt past a certain point without flexing the leaf spring).
As for the leaf eye, if you aren't replacing the shackle it should be fairly straightforward: just cut the bolt/nut/leaf off! If you go from the inside a 5" grinding disc is the minimum you want to try with, and expect that at some point it'll hit rubber. Don't breathe that in lol
Stalker! lol 
For the bolts into the frame, I agree with others here. Let the axle droop down and then put it on stands so that there's as little tension as possible on the suspension. Presumably you've been soaking the fasteners with penetrating oil for a few days. Heat up the bolt and nut end and give it a go with the breaker bar. Minimum 24". Once you get it to move out a little bit, give it some more oil and turn it backwards. Heat cycling can break rust and open new paths for penetrating oil, as well as exposing threads and driving them back in will get more oil into the seized part as well. Lots of oil lol.
If your rust isn't that bad a simple propane torch and only one can of PB Blaster might pull it off for you lol. Under my Jeep you couldn't tell that anything was ever painted down there, my bushing eyes were rusted so badly I wound up just cutting things off simply to free the bolts up! Don't be surprised if you're working on a bolt and you see one of the mounts starting to bend: that means the shackle is frozen to it (also happens if you can't turn the bolt past a certain point without flexing the leaf spring).
As for the leaf eye, if you aren't replacing the shackle it should be fairly straightforward: just cut the bolt/nut/leaf off! If you go from the inside a 5" grinding disc is the minimum you want to try with, and expect that at some point it'll hit rubber. Don't breathe that in lol
Last edited by salad; 12-14-2013 at 01:20 AM.
12-14-2013, 02:57 AM
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I just replaced the entire suspension on my 88 S10 (springs, shocks, bushings, balljoints, hardware, etc.
For the rear leafs, the bolts were frozen inside the bushings. I highly recommend the longest breaker bar you can find, the 24" breaker bar from Harbor Freight has saved me many times and you won't kill yourself trying to break them loose with a standard length ratchet.
Once I got the nuts off I sprayed the bolts down with WD40, rotated the bolts back and forth a bit and then used an air hammer with a pointed drift in it to push them out.
For the rear leafs, the bolts were frozen inside the bushings. I highly recommend the longest breaker bar you can find, the 24" breaker bar from Harbor Freight has saved me many times and you won't kill yourself trying to break them loose with a standard length ratchet.
Once I got the nuts off I sprayed the bolts down with WD40, rotated the bolts back and forth a bit and then used an air hammer with a pointed drift in it to push them out.
12-14-2013, 03:34 AM
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12-14-2013, 10:09 AM
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12-14-2013, 10:14 AM
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If you're replacing the entire spring, save yourself the hassle and get new hardware. For the DIYer without a welder, the biggest problems are breaking or stripping the welded nut against the frame, and mutilating the box that the bolt rides through. Lots of penetrating oil, heat, and patience are key. For the bolts into the frame, I agree with others here. Let the axle droop down and then put it on stands so that there's as little tension as possible on the suspension. Presumably you've been soaking the fasteners with penetrating oil for a few days. Heat up the bolt and nut end and give it a go with the breaker bar. Minimum 24". Once you get it to move out a little bit, give it some more oil and turn it backwards. Heat cycling can break rust and open new paths for penetrating oil, as well as exposing threads and driving them back in will get more oil into the seized part as well. Lots of oil lol. If your rust isn't that bad a simple propane torch and only one can of PB Blaster might pull it off for you lol. Under my Jeep you couldn't tell that anything was ever painted down there, my bushing eyes were rusted so badly I wound up just cutting things off simply to free the bolts up! Don't be surprised if you're working on a bolt and you see one of the mounts starting to bend: that means the shackle is frozen to it (also happens if you can't turn the bolt past a certain point without flexing the leaf spring). As for the leaf eye, if you aren't replacing the shackle it should be fairly straightforward: just cut the bolt/nut/leaf off! If you go from the inside a 5" grinding disc is the minimum you want to try with, and expect that at some point it'll hit rubber. Don't breathe that in lol Stalker! lol
12-14-2013, 10:38 AM
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Propane torch set me back $20 or something, I also grabbed a cylinder of MAPP gas but ai forget how much that was. If you have rust its an incredibly important tool.
The leaf bolts are M14x2.0 120mm ISO Class 12.9. You'll need M14 Class 12.9 washers too if you can't find bolts with a flange head (probably not).
The leaf bolts are M14x2.0 120mm ISO Class 12.9. You'll need M14 Class 12.9 washers too if you can't find bolts with a flange head (probably not).
Last edited by salad; 12-15-2013 at 06:34 PM.
12-14-2013, 12:26 PM
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12-14-2013, 12:38 PM
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Maybe there's a hardware specialty store in your area? I used Tacoma Screw locally, if they don't have it, it doesn't exist, awesome place and I only paid 2 bucks a piece for the correct grade hardware. 