Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Old 09-14-2015, 05:35 PM
How-Tos on this Topic
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:

Browse all: Steering & Suspension Guides
Print Wikipost

Replacing leaf springs tips & tricks?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-15-2013, 10:54 AM
  #31  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
ianpanderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by salad
Are you just changing out the springs or are you replacing the shackle too? If just the springs cut the bolt head off and it'll just fall out. If you're trying to replace the shackle I hope you've got a decent breaker bar lol
Just the springs but my bolts are still in good shape so I'm trying to keep them if possible
Old 12-15-2013, 11:57 AM
  #32  
Herp Derp Jerp
 
salad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

Don't... you will spend way too long trying to save them than it's worth. Cut the bolt through the rear leaf eye and be done in all of 30 seconds.
Old 12-15-2013, 12:24 PM
  #33  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
ianpanderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by salad
Don't... you will spend way too long trying to save them than it's worth. Cut the bolt through the rear leaf eye and be done in all of 30 seconds.
Hahah alright I'm just gonna cut it thanks for your help!
Old 12-15-2013, 05:28 PM
  #34  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
ianpanderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by salad
Don't... you will spend way too long trying to save them than it's worth. Cut the bolt through the rear leaf eye and be done in all of 30 seconds.
One last question where can I get the replacement hardware? I'm having no luck at any autoparts stores
Old 12-15-2013, 05:51 PM
  #35  
Herp Derp Jerp
 
salad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

You won't find those bolts there. Either the dealership or a hardware store like Fastenal, McMaster-Carr, or a specialty joint.

M14 class 12.9 is mostly used in automotive applications so don't be surprised if you get some funny looks.
Old 12-15-2013, 06:11 PM
  #36  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
ianpanderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by salad
You won't find those bolts there. Either the dealership or a hardware store like Fastenal, McMaster-Carr, or a specialty joint. M14 class 12.9 is mostly used in automotive applications so don't be surprised if you get some funny looks.
Alright thank you so much! You wouldn't happen to have the size for the front would you?
Old 12-15-2013, 06:34 PM
  #37  
Herp Derp Jerp
 
salad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

No problem. All three are the same.

Originally Posted by salad
The leaf bolts are M14x2.0 120mm ISO Class 12.9. You'll need M14 Class 12.9 washers too if you can't find bolts with a flange head (probably not).
Old 12-16-2013, 08:59 PM
  #38  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
ianpanderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by salad
No problem. All three are the same.
sorry to bring this back but do you have any ideas or suggestions on how to get the front leaf bolt out i have it loose and cut the leaf off so there is no pressure on the bolt but it is still not coming out.. im losing hope lol anything is helpful at this point
Old 12-16-2013, 09:17 PM
  #39  
Herp Derp Jerp
 
salad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

How far are you making it with the bolt? Is it not turning past a certain point or is it spinning loosely?
Old 12-16-2013, 11:01 PM
  #40  
Junior Member
 
Compstall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: N. Tacoma
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5
Default

Air hammer will get it easy
Old 12-16-2013, 11:10 PM
  #41  
Herp Derp Jerp
 
salad's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 0
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Default

Originally Posted by Compstall
Air hammer will get it easy
Or completely **** the mounting box and bust off the welded nut inside the frame...
Old 12-16-2013, 11:20 PM
  #42  
Junior Member
 
Compstall's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: N. Tacoma
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5
Default

Ok, I just ran outside and took a look, it's not quite the same as my S10 where the bolts run clear through the frame, I see what yer talkin about now. Very similar to the upper mounts on the rear shocks, which I was able to drill through the welded nuts and just use new hardware. Stupid design for maintenance. If your bolt is completely fukkered I'm not sure of any other way to get to it other than notching the inside of the frame so you have access, but then the brake lines are in the way and they'd have to be moved to. Big job in the making....that sucks for sure.

Last edited by Compstall; 12-16-2013 at 11:35 PM.
Old 12-17-2013, 12:16 AM
  #43  
Senior Member
 
EvstaG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: St. Albert
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Originally Posted by salad
Or completely **** the mounting box and bust off the welded nut inside the frame...
Very likely the case that the weld nut broke off. Mine broke off on one side- on the other side even with a solid treatment of lube and heat, that nut broke as well.

Rather than moving brake lines drilling holes in the unirails to fit a socket in, I used a dremel with a cutting wheel and cut a hole in the spring mounting "box" just big enough to fit a flat wrench in (Was a 23mm if I recall).
I was able to loosen off the nut and remove the bolt after cutting the leaf eye off with an angle grinder, cutting the rubber bushing off with a sawzall, and cutting/prying the seized metal bushing off of the bolt.
Old 12-17-2013, 04:59 AM
  #44  
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
ianpanderson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by salad
How far are you making it with the bolt? Is it not turning past a certain point or is it spinning loosely?
The flange head it out about 3/4 of an inch and its spins with a wrench but I can't hand turn it
Old 12-17-2013, 07:31 AM
  #45  
CF Veteran
 
Cherockee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Williamsport, Pa
Posts: 1,168
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Default

It may possibly be stuck in the metal sleve inside the rubber bushing. If you have it loose and turns with a wrench, it would seem that the threads are not making it past that sleve. With a larger cut-off wheel you may be able to cut the bolt next the the leaf spring on both sides, get it out of the way, and then get the rest of the bolt out. I would start with that before I would start butchering the spring mount.


Quick Reply: Replacing leaf springs tips & tricks?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:56 AM.