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Replacing leaf springs tips & tricks?
#76
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Not really. The nut is contained in a pocket between the frame rail and a sort of mounting bracket. Any other arrangement would involve compromising the structure of the vehicle by cutting enormous holes for access. Crawl under your XJ and you'll see why this matters.
#77
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Ok my memory is a little fuzzy it was several years ago looking at the rear springs ... I eventually need to make some rust repairs to the sub-frame, on one side where the rear bracket connects, the sub-frame has started to rust out.
Weather around here is wet, windy, cold and freezing. I prefer work on the Jeep with temps above freezing and when not pouring down rain.
Last edited by Muddz; 12-20-2013 at 01:20 PM.
#78
Herp Derp Jerp
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
I hear ya on that. Freezing rain/ice pellets for the next three days or so. I need to replace my door lock cylinders
#79
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0L
The rust issues may have been from the freezing cold temps then warming up ... heavy condensation being confined only to certain areas causing abnormal rust, while other areas were unaffected.
Last edited by Muddz; 12-20-2013 at 03:03 PM.
#80
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Strange sort of rust issues with this XJ, originally from northern East Canada, has rust issues around the engine and body ... but only in confined areas .. other areas have very little rust or are like when new.
The rust issues may have been from the freezing cold temps then warming up ... heavy condensation being confined only to certain areas causing rust, while other areas were unaffected.
The rust issues may have been from the freezing cold temps then warming up ... heavy condensation being confined only to certain areas causing rust, while other areas were unaffected.
#81
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I try to wash off as much of the salt as possible. A coat of salt / corrosion resistance paint would be a better solution. Prep with a neutralizer such as naval jelly or similar product.
I have used paints similar to Por, these cure wet and require a top coat. Then there are epoxy paint such as Deft, military grade paint with date codes for military purposes, can be stored many years without degradation.
Last edited by Muddz; 12-23-2013 at 07:57 PM.
#82
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
I am having similar issues that have been going on for over a month (work gets in the way of progress).
First, the welded nut in the frame busted loose. I cut a hole to get a wrench on the nut and was able to back the nut off the bolt until the nut hit the far side of the frame.
Then the bolt seized stopped turning within the sleeve and is now turning WITH the sleeve.
Impact gun (air) and PB oil haven't helped. I think I'm at the stage of needing to cut into the eye ...rust is such a pain.
First, the welded nut in the frame busted loose. I cut a hole to get a wrench on the nut and was able to back the nut off the bolt until the nut hit the far side of the frame.
Then the bolt seized stopped turning within the sleeve and is now turning WITH the sleeve.
Impact gun (air) and PB oil haven't helped. I think I'm at the stage of needing to cut into the eye ...rust is such a pain.
#83
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
For each side there are two bolts and nuts for the rear leaf bracket and one bolt and nut for the front bracket.
Using six bolts total ..
34202118 6 BOLT, Hex Flange Head, M14x2.0x120, Rear Spring Front and Rear, Mounting
And six nuts ..
NUT, Hex Flange Lock, M14z2 p/n - 11502814
Thank you in advance!
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