Replacing power steering hose, need help...
#1
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Replacing power steering hose, need help...
Hey guys. I'm replacing the power steering pressure line on my '88 XJ. Seems like it should be a simple enough procedure, but I'm having difficulty getting to the end in the gearbox and it appears the only way to get to it is to remove either the lower radiator hose or the air filter housing. Anyone have any suggestions?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Saginaw Mi area
Posts: 580
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I just replaced the lower radiator hose..... I removed the electric cooling fan (two screws & the connector) to get at the top of it. Removing the fan may help you (?)
The surprise to me was that the grille has to be removed ( 8 screws...easy ) to get to the radiator drain
The surprise to me was that the grille has to be removed ( 8 screws...easy ) to get to the radiator drain
#4
Newbie
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Savannah, GA
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks, guys.
Yeah, I'd considered taking the fan out to have a little more room, I think I'll give that a shot. Between that and the air filter box I should have enough space. i'm trying not to have to buy tools, money is a bit tight - which, of course, is why I'm wanting to do this myself in the first place...
Yeah, I'd considered taking the fan out to have a little more room, I think I'll give that a shot. Between that and the air filter box I should have enough space. i'm trying not to have to buy tools, money is a bit tight - which, of course, is why I'm wanting to do this myself in the first place...
#5
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Posts: 7,964
Received 956 Likes
on
771 Posts
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Do NOT try to do this with a standard open end wrench. Use a flare nut wrench, or risk wrecking things.
You may be able to "rent" what you need at Autozone or Advance Auto. The deal is, you buy the tool, use it, and take it back for a full refund. That way they don't have to worry about taking a deposit, getting the tool back, blah blah blah. They just sell it at full price so they are covered, and if you bring it back, they refund the full price.
It's a really nice program, but they don't have ALL tools available, so make a phone call.
You may be able to "rent" what you need at Autozone or Advance Auto. The deal is, you buy the tool, use it, and take it back for a full refund. That way they don't have to worry about taking a deposit, getting the tool back, blah blah blah. They just sell it at full price so they are covered, and if you bring it back, they refund the full price.
It's a really nice program, but they don't have ALL tools available, so make a phone call.
#6
Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Magnolia State
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Do NOT try to do this with a standard open end wrench. Use a flare nut wrench, or risk wrecking things.
You may be able to "rent" what you need at Autozone or Advance Auto. The deal is, you buy the tool, use it, and take it back for a full refund. That way they don't have to worry about taking a deposit, getting the tool back, blah blah blah. They just sell it at full price so they are covered, and if you bring it back, they refund the full price.
It's a really nice program, but they don't have ALL tools available, so make a phone call.
You may be able to "rent" what you need at Autozone or Advance Auto. The deal is, you buy the tool, use it, and take it back for a full refund. That way they don't have to worry about taking a deposit, getting the tool back, blah blah blah. They just sell it at full price so they are covered, and if you bring it back, they refund the full price.
It's a really nice program, but they don't have ALL tools available, so make a phone call.
#7
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Posts: 7,964
Received 956 Likes
on
771 Posts
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Don't ever be sorry for trying to learn!
Here, take . See how the ends are almost closed? The opening is just big enough so you can slip it over the metal line leading to the nut.
It's also thicker than a standard open end wrench. This puts more metal to metal contact on the nut, so you don't round it off.
Flare nuts are made of softer metal than standard nuts, and they are easy to round off. Once that happens, it's pain and vice-grip time, and then you need to replace it, of course. Major ugliness.
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 539
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Save yourself some frustration and pull both the fan and the air box. A total of 5 bolts between the 2 of them if I remember correctly. That will really open things up for you.
#9
Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Magnolia State
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Don't ever be sorry for trying to learn!
Here, take a close look at this. See how the ends are almost closed? The opening is just big enough so you can slip it over the metal line leading to the nut.
It's also thicker than a standard open end wrench. This puts more metal to metal contact on the nut, so you don't round it off.
Flare nuts are made of softer metal than standard nuts, and they are easy to round off. Once that happens, it's pain and vice-grip time, and then you need to replace it, of course. Major ugliness.
Here, take a close look at this. See how the ends are almost closed? The opening is just big enough so you can slip it over the metal line leading to the nut.
It's also thicker than a standard open end wrench. This puts more metal to metal contact on the nut, so you don't round it off.
Flare nuts are made of softer metal than standard nuts, and they are easy to round off. Once that happens, it's pain and vice-grip time, and then you need to replace it, of course. Major ugliness.
#10
The steering line isn't a flare, it's an oring seal on the tube, a standard 18mm wrench has worked fine for the last 4 line swaps (two box swaps, and two line replacements). A flare wrench would work great, but if you don't have one don't panic. The airbox coming out is a great help. Even still it is tight regardless. Lower rad hose coming out would be a plus.
#12
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Posts: 7,964
Received 956 Likes
on
771 Posts
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#14
The biggest issue I've found with PS hoses is the tube seizes to the nut. Then you have no choice but to cut or twist the hose off. If you are replacing the hose no big deal, PITA if plan to reuse it.
A good flare wrench set s handy as hell, check the local tools stores ... we have a local store here (Canadian Tire) that has tool sales all the time, lifetime warranty, no questions asked, no brainer!
A good flare wrench set s handy as hell, check the local tools stores ... we have a local store here (Canadian Tire) that has tool sales all the time, lifetime warranty, no questions asked, no brainer!
#15
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Posts: 7,964
Received 956 Likes
on
771 Posts
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The cheapy "found on the bottom of the harbor freight"® tools would probably get most dudes through stuff like this too.
Most times, if the nut is at all difficult, an El Cheapo flare nut will bend open and round the nut.
Been there, done that.