Retarted question
#3
What's the torque specs? You wouldn't happen to know off the top of your head would you? The reason I'm wanting to do this is my oil has turned a chocolate milk color and I'm wanting to clean it up some.
#4
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,234
Likes: 1
From: Finger Lakes Region NY
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
Chocolate milk color you say.... don't want to scare you but sounds like you've got coolant mixing in your oil. either cracked block or blown head gasket. check your coolant levels over the next few days and see if you are losing coolant. change your oil to a fresh 5 quarts and see if it "milks" up again.
Good luck
Good luck
#5
Chocolate milk color you say.... don't want to scare you but sounds like you've got coolant mixing in your oil. either cracked block or blown head gasket. check your coolant levels over the next few days and see if you are losing coolant. change your oil to a fresh 5 quarts and see if it "milks" up again.
Good luck
Good luck
#6
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 4
From: Riviera, Texas
Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Like mentioned above! Sound like you need more then a valve cover gasket. Time to pull the head and check the gasket and the head. Personally the valve cover gasket would be the least of my worries.
Last edited by RTorrez1; 02-27-2013 at 04:32 PM.
#7
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,234
Likes: 1
From: Finger Lakes Region NY
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.o
friendly advise.....before asking a buncha what next questions. seach milky oil, head gaskets, cracked blocks, ect... do a full days worth of reading and determine if infact that is your problem and are you going to fix it, have the shop fix it, or sell it?
Be confident in your abilities to work on your own rig (cause it is a pretty straightforward fix) but also know your mechanical limitations.
Be confident in your abilities to work on your own rig (cause it is a pretty straightforward fix) but also know your mechanical limitations.
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#8
You have bigger problems than that gasket, but to answer your question: clean the mating surfaces THOROUGHLY with brake cleaner. Use a good silicone and a GOOD gasket. Put a small bead of silicone on the valve cover, then apply the gasket, then another small bead of silicone. Then put the valve cover on and just snug the bolts to where you see silicone start to ooze. Stop. Come back the next day and tighten the bolts.
#9
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 928
Likes: 0
From: Manhattan, Kansas
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
#10
#11
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 4,172
Likes: 4
From: Riviera, Texas
Year: 1998 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You should stop driving it as soon as possible. Completely drain all the oils and water from the crank case before you damage the bearings. The water/antifreeze do not play well with the bearings.
#13
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 90
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Like freegdr said, use a Felpro gasket. They're reuseable, and after you change the cracked head on your 2000 XJ, you can reuse it.
Edit: The VC bolts are 85 in. lbs. torque.
Edit: The VC bolts are 85 in. lbs. torque.
#14
Ok so I'm thinking about replacing my lifters (how many are there?) along with my cylinder head. How long roughly would it take to do this? Btw my xj is my daily driver. Also does anyone wanna give me the money to fix my baby lol jk
#15
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,127
Likes: 12
From: 9000 ft, CO
Year: 1999 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
Leaking coolant into your oil is an almost definite indicator of a broken head gasket or head. If it is the head gasket only, you'll be able to remove the head and see the damage to the gasket. If the cylinder head is cracked (which you may not be able to see (google magnaflluxing)) then you'll need a new cylinder head, and they usually come with the lifters installed and torqued to spec (you also have the option of welding it but I wouldn't go that route...). In either case, you should check the torque of the lifter bolts prior to bolting the valve cover down. If your old cylinder head is intact you might as well bring it to a machine shop to have it surfaced- this will ensure a completely flat surface for the new gasket to be sandwiched between (BONUS- surfacing your head usually results in higher compression).
Labor-wise this can all be done in a day. You don't have to remove your intake or exhaust manifold if you can get at the bolts holding them to the head. The time consumption comes from waiting for the new head to ship or a machine shop to inspect and surface the cylinder head you currently have.
There are products you're supposed to dump in your antifreeze that are used to repair broken head gaskets but they often do more damage by clogging the rest of your engine than the leak itself.
Labor-wise this can all be done in a day. You don't have to remove your intake or exhaust manifold if you can get at the bolts holding them to the head. The time consumption comes from waiting for the new head to ship or a machine shop to inspect and surface the cylinder head you currently have.
There are products you're supposed to dump in your antifreeze that are used to repair broken head gaskets but they often do more damage by clogging the rest of your engine than the leak itself.