RMS How I Hate You
04-09-2014, 08:41 PM
#46
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Don't know about on the RM, but I've heard of contact cement being used.
Saw something years ago about someone using an arisol contact cement...maybe for a manifold gasket. (presumably on something without alignment pins)
And Cool! We knew you could do it. Now feel free to come over and install a third seal on the outer axle of my disco. I thought I had it well enough. Actually I guess I do, unless I use 4WD.
Saw something years ago about someone using an arisol contact cement...maybe for a manifold gasket. (presumably on something without alignment pins)
And Cool! We knew you could do it. Now feel free to come over and install a third seal on the outer axle of my disco. I thought I had it well enough. Actually I guess I do, unless I use 4WD.
04-10-2014, 04:54 PM
#47
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Well, I saw this post a little too late. I made a jig with alignment pins and contours for each end of the oil pan. It's basically an exact replica of the block. I seated the gasket and applied a 1/16th bead of Ultra Blue RTV down the center channel of the gasket then I seated the pan and clamped the whole thing. I'm going to give it the full 24 hours to cure. I really hope this works.
Last edited by F1Addict; 06-24-2014 at 09:36 PM.
04-10-2014, 05:17 PM
#48
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Year: 1990
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Oh no!! You didn't use the blue stuff?
04-10-2014, 05:22 PM
#49
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04-10-2014, 06:17 PM
#50
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Year: 1990
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04-10-2014, 07:21 PM
#51
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RTV is stiff! I pulled the pins and unclamped, that "U" is firmly seated. I'm thinking I might want to bolt it up before the RTV fully cures or maybe I'm just being impatient, again. I want my Jeep back.
Maybe after I eat.
Maybe after I eat.
04-10-2014, 09:06 PM
#53
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Thank you. I think the reason for all the trouble is that I've got very little clearance at the bell housing (maybe an 1/8th of an inch) and I'm exhausted. I've unbolted and rebolted (torquing 3 times in a criss-cross pattern) the pan five times. There are 28 bolts so that's 560 times I've touched each of those stupid 11mm and 13mm bolts with a socket. I've removed the starter 5 times, unbolted my axle 3 times, and I've showed up at work with RTV in my hair and smelling like a motor oil (which is the only cool part of this whole thing).
Might have got it.
04-10-2014, 09:11 PM
#55
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Year: 1990
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There's your problem: Using metric wrenches and sockets on SAE bolts......
04-10-2014, 09:39 PM
#56
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Year: 90,84
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Engine: 4.0,2.5
11mm= 7/16, of course. Guess a six piont 13 might work on 1/2 inch. At least for inch Lbs.
So Jeff here it is. You show up on the last page, #46. Re reading the replies on my thread I see something I missed before. The double nutting. I've "driven" so many seals, the idea of "sandwiching" the seal on the drawing, shaft went right over my head.
>> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/dan...-disco-172988/
So Jeff here it is. You show up on the last page, #46. Re reading the replies on my thread I see something I missed before. The double nutting. I've "driven" so many seals, the idea of "sandwiching" the seal on the drawing, shaft went right over my head.
>> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/dan...-disco-172988/
Last edited by DFlintstone; 04-11-2014 at 02:40 AM.
04-11-2014, 01:42 AM
#57
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04-11-2014, 01:45 AM
#58
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So Jeff here it is. You show up on the last page, #46. Re reasing the replies on my thread I see something I missed before. The double nutting. I've "driven" so many seals, the idea of "sandwiching" the seal on the drawing, shaft went right over my head. >> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/dan...-disco-172988/
>> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/dan...-disco-172988/
