Rough idle, stumbling acceleration
#16
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.7 stroker
So........
I dropped and cleaned my tank, changed out the fuel pump, tested and cleaned the connection, and put in an optima yellow top. It wouldn't have been that difficult except I don't have much room in the garage, so that was a bit of a challenge.
Unfortunately my fuel pressure gauge is still fluttering (but at a higher pressure range).
And the engine sounded MUCH worse and would stall just idling. And now it's throwing a code for the #2 spark plug.
Out of frustration I stopped working on the jeep and had a beer instead.
I will say that the pressure doesn't drop down to 0 any longer... so that's something... I guess...
I'll reset the ECM tonight and test.
If that doesn't work I'll change out my fuel injectors and of course check my wiring again.
Opinions? Suggestions?
I dropped and cleaned my tank, changed out the fuel pump, tested and cleaned the connection, and put in an optima yellow top. It wouldn't have been that difficult except I don't have much room in the garage, so that was a bit of a challenge.
Unfortunately my fuel pressure gauge is still fluttering (but at a higher pressure range).
And the engine sounded MUCH worse and would stall just idling. And now it's throwing a code for the #2 spark plug.
Out of frustration I stopped working on the jeep and had a beer instead.
I will say that the pressure doesn't drop down to 0 any longer... so that's something... I guess...
I'll reset the ECM tonight and test.
If that doesn't work I'll change out my fuel injectors and of course check my wiring again.
Opinions? Suggestions?
#17
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,349
Likes: 278
From: Long Island, New York
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 98 stroked 4.7
Its kind of messy but elec fuel pumps should not flutter...unbolt the rail from the intake and pull the rail and injectors back...remove each injector elec connector...before or after pulling rail whatever is easier. Have someone else turn key to on so pump runs for the usual 2 seconds to prime rail...any injector that leaks is bad internally... should not open with connector off. ONLY DO THIS ON A COLD ENGINE
#18
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.7 stroker
I did that and saw no leaks.
I'll repeat the process tonight.
I have another set of injectors to install which I will also do tonight if needed.
Thanks!
I'll repeat the process tonight.
I have another set of injectors to install which I will also do tonight if needed.
Thanks!
#19
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Davie Florida
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Idle issues and stalling
Just purchased a 1997 XJ and I’ve been have idling issues at red lights. Today it stalled twice while driving. I’ve already replaced t IAC and that didn’t work. I have TPS coming Sunday to see if that helps. Also I’m going to Clean the TB tomorrow. Does anyone have other suggestions of what this might be? I’ve been working on cars for years and have never had this problem.
#20
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2023
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.7 stroker
Update.
No matter what I did, the problem was getting worse and worse. I bench tested all of my sensors and they all tested good. I installed a new camshaft synchronizer (and sensor), and there was no change.
I thought for sure I had a bad vacuum leak, blown head gasket or cracked head. So once again I pulled the head off.
Once the head was off I inspected everything. Head gasket looked great, intake gasket looked like it was sealing and no obvious problems with the head.
I cleaned up the head a bit and took it to a machine shop for inspection. Magnafluxing found no cracks, warpage was 0.003" across the entire head... Then I had them vacuum test the valves and quite a few of the intake and exhaust valves weren't sealing. I can only assume from the PO overheating it. That perfectly explains all my symptoms of glowing headers, poor vacuum at idle, misfiring, backfiring through intakem etc.
I have a head on order and should be arriving in a week or so. I'll update once installed...
No matter what I did, the problem was getting worse and worse. I bench tested all of my sensors and they all tested good. I installed a new camshaft synchronizer (and sensor), and there was no change.
I thought for sure I had a bad vacuum leak, blown head gasket or cracked head. So once again I pulled the head off.
Once the head was off I inspected everything. Head gasket looked great, intake gasket looked like it was sealing and no obvious problems with the head.
I cleaned up the head a bit and took it to a machine shop for inspection. Magnafluxing found no cracks, warpage was 0.003" across the entire head... Then I had them vacuum test the valves and quite a few of the intake and exhaust valves weren't sealing. I can only assume from the PO overheating it. That perfectly explains all my symptoms of glowing headers, poor vacuum at idle, misfiring, backfiring through intakem etc.
I have a head on order and should be arriving in a week or so. I'll update once installed...
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