f@gfordacrag

I have a friend who'll bring his impact wrench over so that's how it'll be achieved. My question though is how it should be done properly. With the vehicle on all four does this pose potential damage to the wheel bearings when loosening that nut? Someone said I could put it in 4wd to lock it up for nut removal. I've seen a screwdriver stuck into the rotor slots but that seems a bad idea when potentially applying hundreds of ft/lbs torque here. It's on a jack stand currently stripped down to the hub. Just wanna do it right with no blowback ya know?

cliffy

I've pulled mine apart twice and never put it in 4WD. If the gun doesn't get it try a 1/2" breaker bar and if you have to maybe use a floor jack handle as an extension.

caged

if you're using an impact, you can do that with the jeep in the air. but if you use a long bar, you are gonna want the wheel on it and on the ground.
i wouldn't do it with the t-case in 4wd, you don't want to put that added pressure on the transfer case in my opinion.

CCKen

I installed my spare (donut) and let the weight of the Jeep rest on the tire, with chocks under the tire.


The center opening on the donut spare is big enough to fit a socket on the nut.


I had to use a 20 " 3/4" drive sliding T Handle handle and a 4' length of pipe on it. Had to stand on the end of the 4' pipe to break the nut loose. Good luck with the impact wrench.

dans98xj

I'm with Ken and the other guys. I have always had the wheel on the ground and used as much torque possible to bust that nut off. I have a 2 foot 1/2" drive breaker bar with 4-5 feet of pipe on it. I usually soak it in PB blaster for a couple days before hand also.

Jeep Driver

Mine buzzes right off...........never had a problem with any of my Jeeps.

But then........I grease my nuts.

Shocking, I know.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

hmm I've never had difficulty taking the axle nuts off. I also use an impact gun. You could always put your rotor and caliper back on and have someone sit in the jeep holding the brakes while you lean on a break bar. That's how I torque them back up (if someone is available) otherwise I use a long pry bar fished through the studs to prevent the hub from turning. Don't worry, it wont muff up the threads unless you're a complete newb about it. flat pry bar, not round.

Cvail

I always break them loose with the wheels on the ground. You don't have to remove the nut all the way. Once you break it loose a half turn or so you can go ahead and jack it up, remove the tire and take the nut all the way loose.

Smonday

I've always have struggled with these darn things. The last time I broke my Craftsman 1/2 breaker bar. So, I went and picked up a 3/4 breaker bar and socket just for the axel nut. Then I have a helper (read wife) stand on the break and I still have to use a cheater pipe. The spare has the same wheel as the rest of the wheels.

jordan96xj

Doing it on the ground with wheels on is best, but with many wheels, including mine, it is not possible to get the large socket through the center cap hole. So an alternative is to put on the donut spare, which has the center section large enough to us a socket. But this is a pain because it basically requires a jack-up, tire swap, jack-down, remove the nut, jack back up...yada yada.

A good screwdriver in the rotor is definitely not going to hurt the rotor. Probably won't hurt the screwdriver either. As long as it sits strongly against something solid, and close to the rotor.

When I do mine, I throw one of my spare breaker bars through the lug nuts to the floor. But I've had mine off a couple of time, so they are not difficult to remove.

I also have a 1000ft/lb impact now, so I would just take it off directly...with the wheel already off. Impact wrenches do not apply torque the way that humans do, so they have the benefit of working on heavy spinning objects. (humans apply a large amount of continuous torque. Impacts apply a very small amount of instantaneous torque many many times per/second).

Anony

I've used air impact & breaker bars. One time after struggling with a large breaker bar (used with semi trucks), applying alot of weight onto the bar, the axle nut won't budge. Tried for several days, using PB blaster. No go, the nut must have been on there since the factory and was well rusted from cold and wet climates.

I went over to a neighbour with an air impact, it took several mins but eventually came off.

There is also an ox/acc torch, after heating a nut to red hot it usually slips off without too much effort. I've used an ox/acc torch on e.g. axle nuts and steering parts. Nuts such as used with pitman arms often won't budge unless first heated to glowing red hot.

When using a breaker bar, I keep the weight of the Jeep on all four tires. Put into park and set the emergency brake.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

I really don't recommend using a screwdriver. They're not made to take lateral pressure like that. I'd use a pry bar for sure.

mmmm and isn't it a luxury using an impact with that kind of power?

All fine and dandy heating that nut up if you're going to replace the wheel bearing but not so much if you plan on reusing it.

Anony

Yeah, you need to be careful while heating nuts. I seem to recall being able to heat axle nuts without damaging the wheel bearing. You only want to heat the nut. One method I've used is to pour cold water onto what ever holding the nut, while applying heat to the the nut. You can also use e.g. dri-ice, anything that will keep metal cool or cold.

I would first try using a breaker bar and/or an air impact. I don't have air impact but do have a 3/4" Dewalt electric impact. Electric impact guns normally aren't able to perform as well on tougher jobs an air impact is able to do, sometimes has problems removing lug nuts, which may initially require a tire iron to loosen, it does speed up removing and installing the lug nuts. Some of the smaller stuff such as for the exhaust, engine brackets, parts, etc. it does ok.

Impact guns are able to break rusted connections whereas a breaker bar tends to just bend, usually has a more difficult time breaking badly (initial) rust connection which becomes like a glue on rusted and corroded connections. Heat does something similar as that of an impact gun.

I do have a Plvmb (Plomb) one inch breaker bar with a few sockets and pipe used as and extension, that's sometimes unable to break connections that have been rusted for many years.

I don't use an impact gun very often so it's usually either a wrench, breaker bar and/or applying some heat.

jordan96xj

Yes. And truth is I don't even get that many chances to use it. Its a bit much for most of the Jeep jobs. Its real easy to break stuff (coming out, and going in). I have a smaller 100ish ft/lb really small impact (dewalt) that I use for stuff more often. It fits in tight spots. And lately, I find myself using hand tools more overall. Because the impact doesn't save a whole lot of time unless you are working on cars all day long. But how long does it really take to get a fastener off with a socket wrench? Plus you get the benefit of "feeling" exactly what the fastener is doing. Which is most helpful when you are working on an older, or rusty, vehicle.

I bought it knowing that I would be doing more suspension work this year on my Jeep. But truth is, I still find myself using my 1/2 socket wrench and breaker bar.

But the big one is still handy for a few things. Removing and replacing wheels quickly (I can get all 4 off in about 5 minutes), axle nuts, and other key fasteners like crank shaft bolts. I actually bought first to help with my leaf springs, and hardly ended up using it, because it wasn't enough.

Jeepin'_Aint_EZ

Well the problem is you don't have a good in-between impact. Yeah, it's good to have a heavy duty brute in your arsenal but like you said, it's basically overkill for a jeep. Get a nice 3/8 impact. They supply plenty of power but you'll find it to be much more useful and versatile. I use the hellll out of mine and it saves tons of time.