Scetchy Power Steering?
#1
Scetchy Power Steering?
I recently got back my '96 XJ my dad has been using. He had a bunch of work done on it over the last few years. I believe he had the steering worked on as the hoses look brand new but the pump itself appears to be original. At slow speeds like parking the steering really stiffens up... seams ok at faster speeds. Fluids look clean but possibly high. Belt appears to be tight. They may have replaced the steering box. Is their a tell tail sign when the pump itself is going? Thanks in advance for any suggestions to trouble shoot this thing!!!
#2
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
is it binding at all when you say "really stiffens up"? there is an adjusting screw on top that sometimes if you screw it too far in (sometimes just a quarter turn too much) it will start binding.
if it has never been touched (the difference between a 20 year old and 1-2 year old pump is pretty noticeable), then it might be a good idea to get a reman one.
if it has never been touched (the difference between a 20 year old and 1-2 year old pump is pretty noticeable), then it might be a good idea to get a reman one.
#3
I'm not sure I'd call it binding? It just sort of feels like the power steering is not working at slow speeds... maybe that is "binding"? Sort of like if you were trying roll it in neutral without the engine on... only not that bad. I'll look for the screw tonight and back it off 1/4 turn and see if that helps. New pump may be in order?
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!
#4
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 91
From: Syracuse, NY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I had the same symptom on my 96. I diagnosed it down to the steering gearbox (ruled out everything else methodically, including front end/ball joints).
The problem had started shortly after I brought the vehicle home. Which is also when I changed all of the fluids. Before putting a new steering gear in, a knowledgeable friend suggested that I switch back to something more like the original OEM fluid (You can use Mopar Power Steering + 4, or ATF+4). I had already tried flushing with a few off-the-shelf brands from the local auto store, all of them met the original fluid spec (according to the label), but none of them helped the problem at all.
So with nothing to lose, I took his advice and did one last set of drain and fills (suck out what is in the reservoir and replace with desired fluid). I had a quart of Mopar Power Steering + 4 on the bench (same as ATF+4). So that is what I used.
It immediately solved the problem.
The off-the-shelf brands just didn't have the lubrication or viscosity that the +4 type fluids do. The other ones would sometimes help when I first put them in, but after a few days they would get scorched and it would be right back to how it was.
So if you find yourself in a similar situation, give it a try. It won't hurt anything, and it is fairly easy and cheap to do.
The problem had started shortly after I brought the vehicle home. Which is also when I changed all of the fluids. Before putting a new steering gear in, a knowledgeable friend suggested that I switch back to something more like the original OEM fluid (You can use Mopar Power Steering + 4, or ATF+4). I had already tried flushing with a few off-the-shelf brands from the local auto store, all of them met the original fluid spec (according to the label), but none of them helped the problem at all.
So with nothing to lose, I took his advice and did one last set of drain and fills (suck out what is in the reservoir and replace with desired fluid). I had a quart of Mopar Power Steering + 4 on the bench (same as ATF+4). So that is what I used.
It immediately solved the problem.
The off-the-shelf brands just didn't have the lubrication or viscosity that the +4 type fluids do. The other ones would sometimes help when I first put them in, but after a few days they would get scorched and it would be right back to how it was.
So if you find yourself in a similar situation, give it a try. It won't hurt anything, and it is fairly easy and cheap to do.
#5
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 26
From: North canaan Connecticut
Year: 01, 99, 98, 98,98
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Nice! I started a thread a while back about "heavy" steering on the wife's 01. Only steering parts that I haven't replaced are ball joints and was wondering if ball joints alone could cause this. Almost feels like tires are flat or no power assist. I'll have to try the flush and fill method and see what happens.
#6
Thanks Jordan! I think you responded to my other thread... seams our '96s have a lot in common. I'll definitely try the fluid replacement. The guys that did all the work on this xj for my dad were a pretty small shop and I know for a fact that when they needed a part they ran across the street to the local parts store. I'd bet a new PS pump they did not use Mopar fluid.
Question? Is draining the fluid in the box next to the pump alone enough or do I need to purge the whole system some how? Or do I do it several times?? Thanks for your help... excellent input!
Question? Is draining the fluid in the box next to the pump alone enough or do I need to purge the whole system some how? Or do I do it several times?? Thanks for your help... excellent input!
#7
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 91
From: Syracuse, NY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Its a little bit like a transmission, in that you can simply pull (suck out) what is in the reservoir and replace it with the new fluid. You will need to do this 2-3 times with some driving in between in order to get the majority of the fluid swapped over. We will just call this repeated "drain and fills".
If you truly want to replace ALL of the fluid, you would perform a flush (where the return line to the pump is disconnected and situated to drain into a bucket or container). Then the vehicle is turned on and the power steering cycled between the turn stops a few times, or until all of the fluid has been pumped out. To learn more about this, you can google it, or youtube it.
I don't mind drain-and-filling mine 3-4 times, because it only takes a few minutes, and has the added benefit of not letting air into the system. But I also didn't care if a little bit of the existing fluid remains in the mix.
The choice is yours, but to test if it will help solve your problem, I would just drain-and-fill a couple of times (with some use in between). If it is going to help, I think you'll know it right away.
If you truly want to replace ALL of the fluid, you would perform a flush (where the return line to the pump is disconnected and situated to drain into a bucket or container). Then the vehicle is turned on and the power steering cycled between the turn stops a few times, or until all of the fluid has been pumped out. To learn more about this, you can google it, or youtube it.
I don't mind drain-and-filling mine 3-4 times, because it only takes a few minutes, and has the added benefit of not letting air into the system. But I also didn't care if a little bit of the existing fluid remains in the mix.
The choice is yours, but to test if it will help solve your problem, I would just drain-and-fill a couple of times (with some use in between). If it is going to help, I think you'll know it right away.
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#8
I'd be more of a drain and fill kind of guy. The less I need to take apart the better and not having to eliminate air after purging seems like a big positive too. Thanks again jordan. Will check with my local parts store to see if they have the ATF+4. If not I'll make the drive to the closest JEEP dealer and get the MPS+4.
#10
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 2,097
Likes: 11
From: Tarpon Springs, FL / Denver, CO
Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
I usually just pull the lines off the steering gear box, and drain the res that way. Put the front end in the air, turn the wheel lock-to-lock a few time to "pump" out the old fluid.
Refill, drive it for a week, and do it again and you should have almost all of the old fluid cycled out. I used that Royal Purple Max-EZ fluid and it really helped quiet down my pump but ATF +4 is fine too
Refill, drive it for a week, and do it again and you should have almost all of the old fluid cycled out. I used that Royal Purple Max-EZ fluid and it really helped quiet down my pump but ATF +4 is fine too
#11
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,139
Likes: 91
From: Syracuse, NY
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
For emptying the reservoir, I use one of those small plastic hand pumps they sell at the parts store for attaching to oil bottles (useful for pumping fluid up into differentials, other hard to reach areas, etc.).
#12
I usually just pull the lines off the steering gear box, and drain the res that way. Put the front end in the air, turn the wheel lock-to-lock a few time to "pump" out the old fluid.
Refill, drive it for a week, and do it again and you should have almost all of the old fluid cycled out. I used that Royal Purple Max-EZ fluid and it really helped quiet down my pump but ATF +4 is fine too
Refill, drive it for a week, and do it again and you should have almost all of the old fluid cycled out. I used that Royal Purple Max-EZ fluid and it really helped quiet down my pump but ATF +4 is fine too
This seams easy enough too. Any issues with air voids in the line with this method? Thanks for the input and the RP Max-EZ suggestion. If I can avoid going to the dealership it's a good thing... it's an hour round trip.
#14
Beach Bum
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 6,123
Likes: 21
From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Use power steering fluid for the power steering system. Save the transmission fluid for transmissions.
ATF4 does not belong anywhere in an XJ.
ATF4 does not belong anywhere in an XJ.
#15
Didn't see this until this am and went with the ATF+4 last night. It definitely helped with my issue. I did one empty (with my wife's turkey baster) and fill and drove... noticeably better. Did another empty and fill but it was late and raining and did not take the XJ back out.
It would be interesting to hear more why not to use ATF+4 in this application?