TylerA23

I’m currently replacing the shackle and leaf springs on my ‘98 xj.

i am using stock Crown shackles and I cannot for the life of me figure out which way they hang. I currently have them hanging as if they curve out towards the rear. As pictured

also when putting the bolt through the rear shackle is there a preference as to whether the nut is on the inside or outside (bolt head outside, or inside).

to me it looked like I would have a hard time installing a tow hitch if I put the bolt head on the outside and the nut on the inside so I am leaning towards how the factory did it, bolt head inside, nut outside . As pictured

any help would be appreciated

edit: jeep is still on jacks. So that may distort the view of any lack of pressure on shackles . It’s all hanging , not tightened

Curved towards rear (I think)

94XJCherokee

Ya you have it correct.

TylerA23

Thanks!

Anyone know if there is a preference on which way the bolts go that secure the leaf spring to the shackle? I plan to put a trailer hitch on in the near future, and just wanted to make sure I left that possible.

94XJCherokee

Keep it just as you have it, like factory - nut to outside.

Battle

You got it right! Looks good. Just remember to torque everything down AFTER it's sitting under its own weight.

TylerA23

Awesome. Thanks guys

PatHenry

I might see if there's a 10.8 grade bolt instead of that 8.8. The metric grades are not like the standard, a grade 8.8 metric is more like a grade 5 whereas the 10.8 is closer to the standard grade 8.

Probably will be fine either way though.

Dave51

That looks like Tubur's bolt kit!

94XJCherokee

Once you get it back on the ground, snap some pics. I'd like to see how it sits. I too am wanting to replace my saggy stock springs on my 96. Would be interested in the part number of the new spring packs also. Thanks

Ralph77

I bought his kit too and noticed that. I tried to research this and a few post mentioned that with the Class 10.9 will snap quicker while the Class 8.8 will have a tendency to bend somewhat first before it snaps.
Their logic seemed to be that maybe you can still get home and figure out what is wrong and fix it.
I still wonder though what it really should be.

TylerA23

Yep they’re Tubur’s Kit. I bought the full master kit several months ago, maybe even a year ago. Finally got around to doing it.

here she is on the ground. All I’ve done is the rear so far. The goal was the up country look.
crown leaf springs, crown shocks, rubber bushings, Monroe shocks, and like mentioned above- member Tubur’s hardware.

My driveay does go down slightly.

TylerA23

Measurements: (center of axle to fender flare)

old sagging leafs- 16.5 inches

new crown leafs - 19.5 inches

94XJCherokee

Looks good. What leaf part number was it?

TylerA23

Crown 4886186AA

TylerA23

I’m wondering if I over tightened my leaf spring bolts.
Using the torque wrench it got tight, really tight, but never clicked, and was set at 115 ft lbs.

after getting pretty tight, the tightness wore off a bit. It’s not free spinning, and has slight resiistance, but it never seemed to get REALLY tight again after a minute or more of more wrenching.

Is it possible I wore out the nut and over tightened it even though the torque wrench never set?

Am i out of Luck, or do I just need to give it more time and keep wrenching?