HarryHydro

Hi Folks:
I have a '90 Cherokee that I've been driving over a year with the right-rear spring bushing-eye broken. The shackle is still there but I couldn't move any of the bolts. Just recently, the left side broke. I lost what's left of the shackle, too. It looks like it was welded to another bushing at the top bolt. This bolt, to my surprise, turns! Typically, though, the shank of the bushing is seized to it.
I lowered the rear and got the spring out of the way. With a reciprocating saw and about ten blades, I cut the bushing and bolt in half. Now if I can cut the head of the bolt off, the outer-bushing half should fall out, then I have a handle (inner bushing half) on the rest of the bolt to screw it out. It's been two days fighting this. I have new springs and bushings, but no shackles, yet. Is the front bushing going to be this much of a dog? I've been hitting it with PB'laster. I think I need a 'fire wrench'.
Harry

G_P

You drove for a year with the spring broken!?!?!

HarryHydro

Yea. The broken half of the eye was up in the 'box' that houses the shackle and bushing, but I think only the weight was holding it in. It makes some noise sometimes. Other than that, it drove fine. I tried getting the bolts out back then, but they didn't turn. I bought springs though. Now it's the driver side and I need to fix it. One big leap off the ground and the rear would slide out, I figure.
The smaller bushings (for the back of the springs) have bigger OD shanks than the forward bushings. It's probably an inch of metal including the bolt that I had to cut.

Harry

98XJDriver

All six bolts the same size: 14mm x 2.0 thread pitch x 120mm long. Grade 8.8. Had the same problem. After spraying on PB Blaster for a week before starting the project, I was able to get three bolts out over two days with a LOT of work. In each case I was able to get the bolts out of the body nuts using a 1/2" 24 inch long breaker bar and a three foot pipe with two men on it for additional leverage. But they stuck solid in the rubber bushing's steel sleeves. The previously mentioned vice grip-with-side-leverage on the bolt shaft that was exposed got three out, but the last front pivot bolt was just not gonna budge. It was as one with the sleeve and twisted with the rubber bushing when force was applied. So I bought a 7" grinder from Harbor Freight for $40 (on sale this week) and some diamond carbide cutting discs. Took less than 5 minutes to get the spring off.

TBear

Broke both rear leaf springs all the way through on my 97. Breaking the bolts loose, in the case of the big ones especially has been a nightmare, but nothing compared to the frustration of having all of them seized in the bushings.

After trying everything posted here and elsewhere, I am going to have to cut off 4, install new bolts and bushings etc etc.

Two days and a lot of misery in so far....

Can't figure how they could have rusted in so bad here in North Idaho, and only 14 years and 251,000 miles.

HarryHydro

HI:
I think it's an electrical thing that corrodes these bolts and bushings. Fiberglass body parts will cause electricity to build up. I used a disc grinder to cut the leaf springs and old shackles to the point that I could turn the bolt out with the bushin on it. For the front bolts, I also had to cut the bolt and bushing in HALF with a reciprocating saw. That was the slowest and toughest. I made sure the bolt furned pretty easy first. I sprayed P'Blaster in through a hole in the box frame, aimed toward the end of the bolt. It must have worked. Now I have new springs, bolts, and completely different types of shackles in the back.

TBear

Finally got all the seized bolts out. Had to cut every one of them. One captive frame nut of course broke loose. I accessed it by cutting through the floor boards, rear passenger seat. Now will need to patch the hole with something after re-installing springs, bushings, etc.

It took four days of effort so far.

The biggest rusting culprit here in North Idaho is magnesium chloride, used not only for ice melt, but has dust and stability control on our prevalent dirt roads.

Pnguyen7

Can you get into the frame rail if you remover the rear bumper bracket? I figure if i can get in there with a big air hammer i could knock the welded nut off and replace them right? I'm replacing the rear leafs and shackles so i just need the 2 frame bolts off. Now the front leaf spring bolts. How could i get into there and knock it off and replace it? Is there a service hole on the frame rail somewhere real close?

MATT 87 CHEROKEE

Mine seized in the sleeve as well but I used some vicegrips and held the sleeve in place as I turned the bolt out