You have the single diaphragm or double booster.

 

You are losing me, this "upgrades" what exactly?

 

The GM slave has a different piston size in it. Get slightly more force out of it compared to the same Dana axle with a dodge slave.

 

Drilled/Slotted rotors aren't always an upgrade. It actually creates less contact surface on the disc. Most people also don't spend the money to buy a quality brand and end up with cheap ebay parts that aren't made from quality materials. factory/quality aftermarket pads and rotors are a great replacement option. Just my 2 cents

 

ZJ disc conversion rear. It's the first thing I would do to any XJ I would buy. If you really want to go all out, you can do the WJ knuckle and brake swap....but it's not easy, from what I've read.

 

the police package has the 10" rear brakes

 

The best simple brake upgrade you could possibly do is to swap in a dual diaphragm booster from a late model XJ or WJ. Super easy swap and can be done very cheap.

After general maintenance, of course.

 

1999 has the double booster...

 

Drilled/slotted rotors aren't designed to increase stopping power, they're designed to cool down faster. They're for racing applications (or could be handy in a mountainous region).

You don't need drilled/slotted rotors, you probably won't notice a difference in stopping power at all, just a hole in your wallet where your money used to be.

Seriously, put down the concept of "upgrades" for now, and just try to get the FACTORY braking system up to snuff. Like I said, my XJ stops so good, I can't imagine making it any better.

Just try it, get it all working right, bleed the entire system, adjust the rear shoes, and give it a week... THEN decide if you want to spend money on upgrades.

 

x2....

 

I thought there was another way that involved going in reverse and putting on the brakes at like 75% power?

 

Works like ****.

Just adjust them with the tools and be sure they're right.

 

Ya and money grows on trees .

 

Hmm I swore it was you or someone of the more knowledgable who said that our rears have a self adjusting screw that when you back up and brake, the gear wheel will turn and click and adjust to the right tension/spacing for the drum brakes. Ill have to look it up, either here or naxja.

 

As one person state unless your going with larger tires, specific needs for off-road, need extra braking for a trailer, etc. The rear drums work fine.

What the rears sometimes need are new hardware kits.

Raybestos H2526 and H2527

CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY (1990 - 1995)
DODGE CARAVAN (1984 - 1995)
DODGE DAKOTA (1987 - 2002)
DODGE DART (1969 - 1976)
DODGE GRAND CARAVAN (1987 - 1995)
DODGE MINI RAM (1984 - 1988)
DODGE ROYAL MINI RAM (1984 - 1987)
JEEP CHEROKEE (1990 - 2001)
JEEP COMANCHE (1990 - 1992)
_____

The 10 inch OE brakes may be designed for stop and go driving, actually have less friction surface area, perhaps with more stopping torque for fast and frequent stops, produce less heat?

9 " rear pads - 9" X 2.5 inches.

10" rear pads - 10" x 1.75 inches.