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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
4 auto parts stores and no one has those plugs. I did find the Felpro Blue gasket. Pressure washed the engine this am, much better. Time to get started on the work!
I'm fairly new to all this but this its so true. My oil filter adaptor o-rings were shot. This leak had oil dripping off the bottom all the way to the back of the transfer case pan. Transfer case pan was completely coated in oil after a 30 minute drive. That one thing along with a new radiator cap took care of 90% of the fluids the thing was dumping everywhere I went.
Front and rear differential covers... gasket and plugs, how do I know which ones I need. The parts stores need to know what rear end I have. How do I find this out?
Front and rear differential covers... gasket and plugs, how do I know which ones I need. The parts stores need to know what rear end I have. How do I find this out?
You're replacing the covers?
All the fronts are D30.
One thing Cruiser's pic doesn't show that actually makes it easier to identify is that on the 8.25, the differential itself is flat on the bottom so that it looks like you could sit the pumpkin on the floor and not have it roll over. The D35 doesn't have that obvious flat part.
I see no need to replace the covers, unless severly bent/beat-up. Clean all gasket material off cover and diff, clean oil free, use gasket maker, done.
One thing Cruiser's pic doesn't show that actually makes it easier to identify is that on the 8.25, the differential itself is flat on the bottom so that it looks like you could sit the pumpkin on the floor and not have it roll over. The D35 doesn't have that obvious flat part.
What do you think?
I drained the fluid, yuk!, pulled the covers off, scraped the gasket looking sealer off and cleaned the surfaces. Used black RTV, resealed the covers, bolted and then filled with Mobile 1 synthetic oil (parts store said this is what it called for- $75.00 for 4 bottles!).
Ok, great to know. Now, how do these compare to the others? especially the 825? I don't need HD mudding gears, just lots of snow and ice, rutted trails and good mpg!
Ok, great to know. Now, how do these compare to the others? especially the 825? I don't need HD mudding gears, just lots of snow and ice, rutted trails and good mpg!
The 8.25 is a stronger axle than the D35 and can handle bigger tires. For light wheeling like what you describe, the D35 should be fine.
Pressure washing is fine. Stay away from the throttle position sensor!!
When I pressure wash, I'll stay completely clear of the manifolds, with the exception of a little spray when the left side of the VC gets hit.
I spray with degreaser right in the Mall Wart parking lot, (inner fender's, firewall, bottom of the hood), then drive 10 minutes to the car wash. I leave it running, and do all the engine bay stuff staying away from the dizy and manifolds.
Never "bean in" close anywhere you could force crud in, (Valve cover Gasket, seals...common sense). Even on the suspension/steering, that 2500 Lb pressure could push crud IN, so gentile as possible is the guide, when "beaning" any ......
Getting underneath requires old/work cloths. Eye protection and a hat is always a good idea.
If you are leaking oil, don't go home. Go a block, or 5 minutes, and look. Once it's everywhere you can't tell where it came from!
So I got a bottle of Gunk spray, non aresol type. With my engine warm, and left running, I sprayed down the inside of the engine compartment, everywhere. After about 3-5 minutes of sitting, I gently spray washed/rinsed the inside down (at a car wash). I figured leaving the engine running while doing this was the best way to insure a ride home.
04-30-2015, 05:57 PM
