Hi so I bought my '92 XJ about 3 weeks ago or so and the speedometer and odometer do not work. The previous owner said that it went out about 3 or 4 months ago. The only other gauge I have is the fuel gauge the rest are dummy lights. Does anyone have an idea of what it could be?

Thanks!

 

You may just need to ground it, or check the connections, but I'd recommend buying one off ebay or whatever with all the gauges. They are cheap and ALL the gauges will just plug in and work. You're already wired for it. Tachometer, temp gauge, etc. The only one that won't work is the oil pressure because the sensor only sends a signal when there is a problem. Change that sensor as well and you'll have the full, working, cluster.


This is NOT your year, but it's the going rate. You get the idea. You can search for yourself.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-...Q5fAccessories

 

Its either the gauge cluster or the speed sensor in the tcase/tranny (didnt look if it was a 4x4) If only the fuel gauge works and no other ones, its probably the gauge cluster or a ground

Mine had the same problem (92 limited 4x4) and somehow the speed sensor gear got off alignment and i just had to realign it. and give the connector a good cleaning. worked ever since

 

I don't specifically recall if the 1992 has an electronic or mechanical speedo, but it's easy enough to find out (and only makes for a couple of real differences in troubleshooting anyhow.)

Go under to your drivetrain - just forward of where the driveshaft goes into the transmission/transfer case, on the driver's side, you should see a small bracket around a circular "plug" (it will either have a single mechanical cable with a large hex nut or a - probably two-wire - electrical plug.) This is where your speedo pinion gear goes.

Note the orientation of the speedo pinion housing, remove it, and visually inspect the gear for stripped teeth. If you need to replace it, note the tooth count (it's moulded into the outer/upper side of the gear) and whether it's a short (~1.25") or long (~2.5") shaft. Source a replacement - checking the boards first, and see if I have one of like shaft length and tooth count in the Parts Exchange on my site (link in sig.) While you're about it, check the speedo drive gear (the bit of the output shaft that the speedo gear mates to) to make sure the teeth on it haven't packed up with crud. If it's not stripped, put it back (stripping speedo pinions is rare, but it happens. The gears are injection-moulded from plastic...) Make sure the pinion gear housing gets sealed - a bit of RTV black smeared around the O-ring helps here, as can plumber's pipe dope (or really any other paste sealant - there's no pressure, it's just a splash seal.)

Once you've put the pinion gear back, check the housing proper. If it's got the electrical plug, check the contacts in the plug and socket to make sure they're clean, and visually inspect the wiring going up. If it's a cable, you should be able to pull the cable out of the housing - you'll end up with a metal cable about six feet long, with a square drive nub compressed into each end. If the cable has been broken (I've seen plenty of those on various vehicles...) you'll note it easily on inspection of the end. As you reinsert the cable, two things:
1) Note if it binds up anywhere as you go in - if you can't get it go go past wherever with a slight "screwing" motion, the housing is probably damaged and wants replacing.
2) Give it a spray every 4-6" with dry graphite (find this in the hardware/DIY store where they keep the locks) to lubricate it. If it was cruddy, you can clean it with carburettor cleaner and a toothbrush - let it dry fully before reinstalling.

If everything checks out underneath, grab a #2 Philips screwdriver...

You said you have a 1992, so you have the earlier instrument panel setup. There are four screws to remove the fascia/bezel (one overtop of the cigar lighter, one overtop of the headlamp switch, two overtop of the instrument cluster,) pull the four and remove. There is a small filler panel under the steering column that will merely pop loose - it will either fall out as you remove the fascia, or you can pop it out later (it's easier to put it all back together if that little piece goes in last.) If you have a tilt column, tilt the wheel all the way DOWN so you have a bit more room - you'll still have to flex the fascia a bit, but it will come out without breaking.

There are four screws that retain the instrument cluster to the instrument panel - they're right next to the screws that hold the lense in place. Typically, the screws for the lense have larger-diameter heads and are bright zinc chromate (or cadmium - something that gives it a light gold colour,) and the retaining screws are usually black oxide. Remove the cluster.

Unplug the electrical connectors, and disconnect the speedo cable (if mechanical.) It could have a Nylon snap collar to retain, it could be a large hex nut - I don't know what you have, but you'll know it when you see it. If it's the Nylon collar, don't squeeze it too hard. Everything else should be simple.

Take your instrument cluster over to the workbench, and grab a pencil eraser (I keep a draughtsman's battery-powered eraser in my toolbox for jobs like this.) Use the eraser to clean all of the circuit board connexions - a butter/table knife will work to lift the folded bit out and support it while you clean it. It will press back in, so no trouble there. You can also use the eraser to clean the harness plugs.

Inspect the wiring connexions as far back into the harness as you are able. If you have wiring diagrams, it may be instructive to perform a resistance check on the harness from the upside to the undercar plug (or just bridge the undercar plug, and check it all from up top - check your wiring diagrams.) Also, visually check the printed circuit (on the plastic, you have metal traces) to make sure a trace isn't broken. Clean and reassemble, servicing PRN.

This should cover most of the inspections you can do easily, and you're probably in for an hour and a half or so to get it all done. You'll also have the satisfaction of having done it yourself, learning something about your vehicle (that you may not have already known,) and not having had to fork over for something (there are three mechanics in the country that I trust: two are retired, and my granddad died a couple years ago. So, I'm it. And I'm cranky...)

HTH, YMMV, TANSTAAFL. Void where prohibited by law. No pruchase necessary. Purchase will not increase your odds of winning

Report back with your findings, and we'll give you any more help you may need that we are able (do I have a 1992 FSM floating around here anywhere...?)

 

Thanks 5-90 and the rest for the advice. I went to take a look under my XJ but I'm not really sure what I am looking for. Does anyone have a pic of what I should be looking for?

In a bit I'll post some pics of what I see under my XJ.

Thanks

 

If you're 4WD, take a pic of the transfer case from the driver's side, focusing on the cone behind the main body. If it's 2WD, givvus a pic of the rear third of the transmission from the driver's side.

We can take that pic and point up what you should be looking for.

 

My jeep was purchased about 3 months ago, and the previous owner replaced the instrument panel with one that had a tacometer/RPM gauge.

I noticed the Speedometer/odometer didnt work, but everything else was fine.

If you undo the 6 or so screws holding on the plastic console around the gauge cluster, then remove the 4 screws holding on the gauge cluster itself (just pulls out), then you can see the back of the gauge cluster. (you may have to remove each little guage section, like the fog light switches, cigarette lighter, etc, but its only one or two phillips screws on each).

There is an electric plug going into the back of your guage cluster that looks 'similar' to what goes from a power supply for a computer into the motherboard, and that is for your RPMs and other gauges. The only other cable going INTO the gauge cluster is for your speedometer cable.

that clamps onto the guage cluster and goes down to the firewall area, and screws onto a black plastic piece with a hex bolt(its easier to get to if you remove the 4 bolts holding your seat on, and just remove the seat. This way you can lay and look up with ease). Another cable comes in from the engine bay, through the firewall, into the other end of the black plastic speed sensor type deal. It has a hex on both ends that just screw on. Mine busted where the cable goes from the guage cluster into this little plastic piece. I fixed it, but tightened it too much and the plastic broke..now my speed gauge 'bounces' a lot when its moves. But it is working more than it did before!

if your 92 is like my 87, its a simple junkyard replacement part, hell just get the whole assembly.

If thats not it, sorrry I wasted 2.5 minutes of your time reading this

 

make sure the cable is plugged into the back of the gauge cluster mine wasnt which will make it not work