The squeal may return, but if not, don't sweat it. Take your other one back for a refund. If it does start making noise again, then you, being an old pro by then, should pull the old distributor and turn the distributor shaft by hand BEFORE going down to auto parts store. It should spin freely. If it is stiff like mine was, THEN you know where the squeal was coming from. The shaft spins inside two bushings that are lubed by your engine's oiling system. Over time the bushings can fail and start binding, and when they do, they make one hell of a squeal.

 

Were not there to make that call. Its gonna come back and most likely at the most inconvenient time.

 

Agreed. It probably WILL return. Why not go ahead and pull the distributor now anyway, and see if the shaft is turning freely. If it is not, then put the new one in, even if the old one is not presently making noise. If the shaft is binding at all, there WILL be trouble, sooner, rather than later.


Merry Christmas, all y'all........

 

Yes sirs. Got the part so I may as well listen to the experts. Will change on Friday, hopefully the weather is decent. Merry Christmas!

 

Just align timing mark on zero . Remove dist cap if rotors not pointing at the 5 o clock position rotate motor one more 360 degrees . This is done by using a rachet and socket on lower most pulley on the center bolt . Then mark rotor position somewhere on engine . Remove bolt and hold down bracket with a box end wrench lift dist straight up. Note rotor will turn as you lift install new dist in reverse order. Bracket on side of dist must line up over bolt hole the same time rotor lines up with your mark.

 

So I'm definitely going to have to remove the radiator fan to rotate the motor, right?

And this is the bolt on the crankshaft, correct, so the distributor and crankshaft work together to establish the proper TDC?

 

No.

Yes.

 

You're getting a lot of back and forth instructions on what to do concerning removal and installation of your distributor.

Read this thread.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/d...es-i6-2840114/

There's photos and FSM instructions on Ditributor R&R.

In my opinion, it is best to remove the electric radiator fan so you can get a direct view of the timing marks and it makes it easier to turn the crankshaft. I've tried looking at the timng marks from below and it was a PITA.

Before removing the distributor - If you remove the distributor cap, rotor, and cam sensor, reinstall the rotor, then rotate the crankshaft to align the timing marks, then drop the 3/16" punch/drill through the alignment holes in the distributor, The rotor should be pointing just past #1 on the distributor (as in the pic in the thread). You are now at #1 TDC and there shouldn't be a need to check it by removing #1 spark plug, etc. If the punch won't drop through both holes, and the rotor is pointing at #6, turn the crankshaft another 360* to realign the timing marks and do it again. Now you know you are at TDC compression #1 piston. Now you can remove the distributor.

Do not move the crankshaft after removal.

To install the new distributor, mark the area around the mount hole like in my pic in the thread (11:00 and 1:00 o'clock), use a screwdriver to align the oil pump drive slot with the 11:00 O'clock mark. Place the punch in the distributor, align the fork on the distributor base with the 1:00 O'clock mark and insert the distributor. It should twist into place, putting the fork directly over the distributor hold-down clamp bolt hole. If it doesn't, try it again. Sometimes you may have to reposition the oil pump drive slot.

 

Removing fans your choice it makes it easier to see the mark but is not absolutely necessary. And yes bolts in center . And camshaft is connected to crank shaft via timing chain. Once you replace the dist you will see how simple it really is .

 

Thanks, I read this write up but it's just confusing to me.

 

I just hate having to move the fan because it's new and there's a bolt in the center, which makes it difficult to remove. I definitely can see the markings with it in the way.

Also, I can't even remove the cam sensor, it's stuck. Should I spray Wd-40 on it?

 

But it seems like the order of things is a hindrance since I can't remove the cam sensor...

 

I don't want to sound like someone who discourages others from an adventure, but from your posts it seems like you are really struggling with basic identification and technique. As good as the advice can be in this forum, it may not be enough to successfully talk you through an operation with the details that this one demands. Please consider carefully what options you are willing to accept if you make an error and disable your DD.

 

Dont touch fan then. Cam sensor just lifts off ????

 

I know it's supposed to but it's stuck-go figure!