Squeaking Distributor/Rotor Cap
12-28-2014 | 12:52 AM
#46
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 31
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
12-28-2014 | 01:04 AM
#48
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 31
From: Broward County Fl.
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Just unplug it and you can get it off when dist out. Remove dist hold down bolt and lift dist out like this video shows. After you line up timing marks with rotor at 5 o clock position.DO NOT WORRY ABOUT WHAT THIS ENGINE LOOKS LIKE.....
12-28-2014 | 10:41 AM
#49
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 90
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I don't want to sound like someone who discourages others from an adventure, but from your posts it seems like you are really struggling with basic identification and technique. As good as the advice can be in this forum, it may not be enough to successfully talk you through an operation with the details that this one demands. Please consider carefully what options you are willing to accept if you make an error and disable your DD.
12-28-2014 | 03:22 PM
#50
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 716
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Year: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport
Ok, I got the cam sensor off. The distributor bracket has a hold down bolt, not a screw, this thing is in an inconvenient location, and of course the bolt is stuck. Just sprayed WD-40, waiting for it to loose up-ugh! My son is helping. We're working on it. What direction should I turn the bolt in to loosen, doesn't seem to be a systematic rotation on the bolts. I definitely don't want it to snap.
Last edited by WomanNeedsJeepExpertise; 12-28-2014 at 03:57 PM.
12-28-2014 | 07:31 PM
#56
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 716
Likes: 0
From: Charlotte, NC
Year: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport
You shouldn't have to remove the fan or anything. It's not the easiest thing to see, but it's easiest to highlight the timing mark from underneath the truck. If you still have a splash shield on there, you would have to remove that, but that's all. Once you get the mark highlighted with your silver MM or a piece of chalk, turn the crank by hand, clockwise as seen from the front (use a 19mm or 3/4" socket and breaker bar of even a ratchet). When the mark is at TDC with the pointer on the block, and the distributor rotor is at about 5 o'clock, you are at TDC on #1. Unbolt the distributor, and as you remove it, you'll see the rotor turn as the gears (distributpr and cam) unmesh. Remember how this looks, and position the rotor on your new distributor in the same position as the one ended up when you pulled it. It will turn back to that 5 o'clock position as you push it down and engage the gears again with the cam. If there's any problem getting it in, you might have to align the oil pump shaft slot with the key at the end of the distributor shaft. But if you don't move the crank while the distributor is out, it should slip right on back in and engage the oil pump. To be honest, you really don't have to do any of the lining up on TDC. But you do have to position the rotor on the new distributor exactly where it was when you removed the old one. I just prefer to line it all up, in case I find some reason to want to turn the crank with the distributor out.
12-28-2014 | 07:43 PM
#59
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 90
From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
12-28-2014 | 07:55 PM
#60
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 360
Likes: 5
Model: Cherokee
No laughs here. Actually I feel bad that your ride is disabled. That's the risk you take when you embark on an adventure like that with your DD. Hopefully the two posters will chip in and talk you through a redo.