I have searched high and low
over land
and by phone
Parts stores
ASE technicians
yea... no one seems to have a a clue...

SO i ask you all here...

What is the wire connector and wire connected to the starter?

Because no one can tell me what it is, i had to draw it
This may be alittle off, heck the connectors may be in the wrong spot
but SURELY someone has seen this and can actually give it a name.
BTW ... NO its not a battery wire!!! Wrong connector type and it does not have a circuit connector as shown below.

Also, i am no artist - sorry for the bad drawing.

 

All starters that I know of, from D8 Cats to sailboat motors, basically have the same connections.
For the sake of argument Im NOT mentioning a separate ground connector which may or may not be present.

Not counting the ground, a starter may have up to 3 posts/lugs/connections. The largest of these posts, normally is a direct or semi-direct feed from the positive battery post.
There may be 1 or 2 other much smaller posts on the starter. One of these post energizes the ON STARTER solenoid the other goes to the points in the distributor.

EXAMPLES
Early (1970's) Fords only have 1 post, they also have an external solenoid.
Most GM (1970's thru 2010) have 2 posts. 1 is the battery feed and the other is the on-board solenoid. Some GM will have 3 posts.
Most Chrysler (1960's and 1970's) will have 3 posts. If the car has points, it is to boost the voltage. If the car does not have points, it was used on some the Chrysler funky emissions wiring, that I have never been able to make heads or tails out of.

Hope this helps
Ron

 

I can agree

However all three main line parts stores have tried to sell me just have the looped end aka "battery wire" which is NOT what i want.....

I have not seen another wire with this end on it. the wire goes from my battery, then "Y"s off with one wire going to what i assume is a distribution block

the other is the wire in the diagram. I will be trying to get pics. I just need to know what wire this is (before my brain fries trying to find it)

also, no negative lead present, just a positive 14mm and a 7mm (memory serves me correctly)

 

big one is from the battery.
small one is from distribution block that is coming from the starter relay.
the third one is from the solenoid mounted ontop of the starter.

the ground comes from the mounting bolts. (for lack of better explanation).

you do not need to have a special plug end so to speak, they can be all separate wires. you may need to use a small nut and bolt on the solenoid wire tho. if i remember correctly.

 

THIS... is a picture of the exact thing I am looking for.
I know that I can wire separately, however - i like this wire much better

I took these earlier today

 

That is a convenience - just like the moulded rubber block on the back of the alternator. The two leads are generally wired separately - the larger one is terminated (for us) with an M8 lug (5/16" or 3/8" will also work,) and the smaller one can be terminated with a #10 ring.

The only way I know of to get that specific connexion is to order the OEMR subharness from the dealer ($pendy!) or pillage around boneyards until you can find one in a junkyard that is in cleanable/usable condition (time-intensive, but less spendy.)

 

thinkin i might just pull this all the way out tomorrow and get me some cleaner and rid off some of the gunk.

i need to grease lightning my engine bay and give her a nice pressure washing.
she is DIRTY!!!

 

as 5-90 said it is a connivence thing.

big terminal is your main power (battery)
small terminal is your "feed" wire

 

I dont have that set up, my mean green is literally 2 nuts mounted on the side that this slides right onto. total work for starter: 2 nuts and 2 mounting bolts no more no less.


and i think i may have found my over heating issue


the exposed tranny hose that sets 1 thumb width from the upper arm


is crushed into the lip of the oil pan/ side of block.
Luck it hasnt blown anything and lucky it hasnt ruptured.

Could this cause me to reach the high temps i've had in the past?

 

the mean green one is the exact same other than the Solenoid wire is built in...

so just ignore the bottom bolt on mine and yours will be similar.

Run a cable Directly from the battery to the starter (the main one) cut the rubber plug off and run the small wire to its bolt and call it done. make sure you disconnect the main power wire in the existing harness when you cut the plug.

Btw most of the time you can get welding wire for cheap (or free)

I run 2/0 welding wire for mine



and yes I have seen that happen before.

 

well thanks to a wonderful redesign from M.G. industries
old
---


new
---


------------------
and the folks at Quadratec (who sent me the new one)

- I am still waiting to get said XJ running, since I had to cut the wire end off that I didnt want to... to my dismay...its about 4 inches too short now and pulls on the batter.... i swear I can't win!!!

 

Not a bad drawing. Thanks. I had forgotten what this connector looked like. Thanks for your detailed procedure on how to check the circuit. I'll check it out toward the end of the week and let you know how it turns out.
Also, I did check the fuse and relay under the hood near the battery, but I understand that there is a fuse in the kick panel box? I didn't realize that. I will check that out soon. How many fuses does the starter need?

 

 

Did you try to go back to the store and see if they still have your core?

If it's a single connection inside the connector then you're probably fine going directly to the terminal. I would try to grab a plastic or rubber washer or something to isolate the connection from inadvertently touching any other metal except for the terminal itself.