Starting to narrow my oil leak down a bit....
#1
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Brentwood, TN
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Starting to narrow my oil leak down a bit....
So last weekend I decided to spray under my jeep focusing around the oil pan and trans. Both seemed to be very oily. I managed to really clean both off pretty good getting all of the oil off of both. A week later I crawl under th jeep and the oil pan is still clean and dry... pretty happy about that but the oil drip is comming off the tip of the transmission. It seems to run down between the pan and trans. I reached up to feel the RMS and it seemed greasy but not wet like bottom of the trans. The pan under the trans had some oil on it as well but it did not seem to be red, it was brown. Does this sound like an RMS or could this come from the valve cover as well. I just dont want to go changing things that dont need it. The Valve cover looks like a real PITA because I cant get to those rear bolts and one rear bolt is larger that the others, is that normal?
#2
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Forest, VA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
i guess leak from the back of the valvecover could come down to your bellhousing. and doing a valve cover gasket was not bad at all. a u-joint on an extension made it a breeze.
#3
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 999
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From: Brentwood, TN
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There is a larger bolt on the driver side rear of the valve cover and I cant get to that darn thing. Is it supposed to be bigger than the others?
Last edited by ken72; 06-13-2010 at 08:06 AM.
#5
Hi all, new to the forum...Just bought and lifted a 96 XJ and have been happy with it ever since. The Jeep doubles as my not so DD, the toad behind my motorhome and the occasional trail run. Only did a RE 3.5 rolling on 31's, but so far that's worked great.
I had this oil leak when I bought my rig. After a month of high pressure washing and rag wiping, turns out it was the factory 90* oil adapter for the oil filter. There's an O-ring between the engine block and the adapter. It was $2.55 at NAPA and that was all I needed. It's easy to diagnose, if there's oil dripping off the little rubber grommet on your starter motor, you may need a new oil adapter gasket.
Good luck.
I had this oil leak when I bought my rig. After a month of high pressure washing and rag wiping, turns out it was the factory 90* oil adapter for the oil filter. There's an O-ring between the engine block and the adapter. It was $2.55 at NAPA and that was all I needed. It's easy to diagnose, if there's oil dripping off the little rubber grommet on your starter motor, you may need a new oil adapter gasket.
Good luck.
#7
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Forest, VA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
that doesn't make too much sense. wow, double? i don't think that's normal. the only thing that i can think about is that at some point, someone overtightened the screw and stripped the threads, so they just put a bigger screw on it. i think it's all gonna depend on the situation. take it off and if you can't get it back on, try a heli-coil.
in the same time, if that oversize screw is working and it seems like it's holding on tight enough, put it back on there. you're working directly on the cylinder head, so you don't wanna do much drilling and tapping and creating weak points, if you don't have to.
keep me posted, let's see how you can get it done.
and also, if you're doing a valvecover gasket, you should go ahead and flush the cooling system too, because taking off the goose-neck makes it easier to get the valvecover on and off. PM me if you run into any trouble, or if you just want directions and we'll get it done.
in the same time, if that oversize screw is working and it seems like it's holding on tight enough, put it back on there. you're working directly on the cylinder head, so you don't wanna do much drilling and tapping and creating weak points, if you don't have to.
keep me posted, let's see how you can get it done.
and also, if you're doing a valvecover gasket, you should go ahead and flush the cooling system too, because taking off the goose-neck makes it easier to get the valvecover on and off. PM me if you run into any trouble, or if you just want directions and we'll get it done.
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#9
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Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Brentwood, TN
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Here is the best photo I could get of it, its a little dark out right now. Its not quite twice the size but it is bigger than than the others. Its silver in color instead of black like the other also. It is bigger than the others. I really need to clean my engine bay and I think my valve cover leak is comming from the bolt.
#10
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 148
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From: Surrey B.C
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
Here is the best photo I could get of it, its a little dark out right now. Its not quite twice the size but it is bigger than than the others. Its silver in color instead of black like the other also. It is bigger than the others. I really need to clean my engine bay and I think my valve cover leak is comming from the bolt.
#11
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 999
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From: Brentwood, TN
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You dont need to take that bolt off. That silver braided cable is your Motor ground. I had mine off to clean it about a half hour ago. If you do want to take it off its a size 18, you will need a knuckle but for the last few turns you will need to turn it with you finger tips.
#12
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 148
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From: Surrey B.C
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
Thanks I think I just realized or noticed in the photo that the rear valve cover bolt appears to be behind that bolt. I guess I will go with the valve cover gasket first. I still have a clean oil pan but the oil drips from the bellhousing. I fear it comes from the rear main and I am just not prepared for this.
#13
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,379
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From: Forest, VA
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Thanks I think I just realized or noticed in the photo that the rear valve cover bolt appears to be behind that bolt. I guess I will go with the valve cover gasket first. I still have a clean oil pan but the oil drips from the bellhousing. I fear it comes from the rear main and I am just not prepared for this.
XJ is probably one of the easiest vehicles to do a rear main seal on. because it's a two piece. there's a good write-up, i'll try to find it for ya.
and next time you change the oil, it would be a good idea to go ahead and do the oil filter adapter o-ring. cheap insurance (and who knows more about insurance than you ? haha ). i need to do mine too.
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