starts will not stay running
#17
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The auto shutdown relay is just the computer relay. If you unplug it, the engine will die. It feeds power to the computer, but is a separate circuit from the fuel pump/ pump relay. Chrysler calls it "auto shut down", Ford calls it the "EEC relay", BMW (Bosch) calls it the "fuel injection relay" It's all the same. There are ways to check relays, but at 15 bucks apiece, I'd just replace it. That, and you may want to check the fuel pump relay as well.
CPS- Crankshaft Position Sensor. I edited the post, because I saw that you said you already replaced it.
Check your fuel pressure first. There's also a little porcelain ballast resistor on the driver's side fender close to the firewall- looks like a distributor resistor/ blower motor resistor. If I understand correctly (aka not 100% sure)- this resistor is supposed to "quieten the fuel pump". If you unplug it, the engine will die as well. You should do some research on this little thing to find out more. Check your fuel pressure (did I already say that?)
CPS- Crankshaft Position Sensor. I edited the post, because I saw that you said you already replaced it.
Check your fuel pressure first. There's also a little porcelain ballast resistor on the driver's side fender close to the firewall- looks like a distributor resistor/ blower motor resistor. If I understand correctly (aka not 100% sure)- this resistor is supposed to "quieten the fuel pump". If you unplug it, the engine will die as well. You should do some research on this little thing to find out more. Check your fuel pressure (did I already say that?)
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#18
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 93 4.0HO
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Turns out it was what looks to me like some sort of resister,that is on the drivers side fender about a foot away from the fire wall went bad.mudallday let me know about it and that you can discnnect the two wires that go to it,connect them together and it should stay running if thats the problem.sure enough it worked, now i just have to figure out what its called so i can buy a new one. Well thanks for the help.
#19
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Ok, I've had this problem for 5 days now. At first it started out that the only way I could accelerate was to put it to the floor.
Found the fuel pump was only putting out 22 psi (I believe it's supposed to be 30 psi with an 8 -10 psi spike with the fuel regulator vaccuum removed and it should spike to 89 psi with the pump "dead-headed" which it did none of the above)
Did the usual, fuel pump,fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc.. but to no avail.
After reading these forums I tried by-passing the "balast resistor" located on the inside of the left fender and viola.
I went to multiple auto part stores and none of them even have a listing for this part. I tried one for an older vehicle (79 chrysler product) but it smoked as soon as I put it in.
I ran 4 inches of 12 ga wire as a jumper and drove it over 200 miles with no problems. But I sure would like to know what this piece is and get a new one in before I burn something else up in the system.
(Also should mention I replaced MAP sensor, TPS and CSP sensor while trying to figure this whole thing out.)
Cheers,
KrnlPanic
1989 Cherokee Loredo 4.0l
3" Rough Country Chasis lift
31/11.5/15 Super Swamper LTB's
Found the fuel pump was only putting out 22 psi (I believe it's supposed to be 30 psi with an 8 -10 psi spike with the fuel regulator vaccuum removed and it should spike to 89 psi with the pump "dead-headed" which it did none of the above)
Did the usual, fuel pump,fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc.. but to no avail.
After reading these forums I tried by-passing the "balast resistor" located on the inside of the left fender and viola.
I went to multiple auto part stores and none of them even have a listing for this part. I tried one for an older vehicle (79 chrysler product) but it smoked as soon as I put it in.
I ran 4 inches of 12 ga wire as a jumper and drove it over 200 miles with no problems. But I sure would like to know what this piece is and get a new one in before I burn something else up in the system.
(Also should mention I replaced MAP sensor, TPS and CSP sensor while trying to figure this whole thing out.)
Cheers,
KrnlPanic
1989 Cherokee Loredo 4.0l
3" Rough Country Chasis lift
31/11.5/15 Super Swamper LTB's
#20
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: inline 6 4.0L
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dude I've had the same problem. You guys are making this too hard on yourselves. Easy solution:
This set-up may look a bit different than yours, but its just a sensor near the TB. It worked for me. I was having my jeep die at stop signs too.
Intake Air Sensor should get a thourough cleaning.
This sensor tells the computer if it should enrichen the mixture due to temperature fluctuations.
IAT is located:
![](http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/5671/5intakelayouthw8.jpg)
Sometimes the MAP sensor vaccuum and the IAT are reversed.
This sensor when removed should look like this:
![](http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/534/6iatfm7.jpg)
There is a small diode inside the plastic cage that SHOULD be BLUE.
Due to its location, it probably looks BLACK. This is from the oil soaked air the CCV is pulling from the vavle cover. This oil coating makes the IAT give a false temperature reading, thusly poor performance and MPG.
Remove from intake, give good cleaning with brake cleaner and re-install. That easy.
ALSO: What does your air filter look like?
Like many XJ's, its probably oil soaked. This comes from the CCV breather tube. You need to turn plastic portion of the tube. Rotate until the bend closest to the vavle cover is in the UP position. The idea is to create a hump in the tube.
This doesnt stop the oil getting to the filter, but alleviates alot of it.
This sensor tells the computer if it should enrichen the mixture due to temperature fluctuations.
IAT is located:
![](http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/5671/5intakelayouthw8.jpg)
Sometimes the MAP sensor vaccuum and the IAT are reversed.
This sensor when removed should look like this:
![](http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/534/6iatfm7.jpg)
There is a small diode inside the plastic cage that SHOULD be BLUE.
Due to its location, it probably looks BLACK. This is from the oil soaked air the CCV is pulling from the vavle cover. This oil coating makes the IAT give a false temperature reading, thusly poor performance and MPG.
Remove from intake, give good cleaning with brake cleaner and re-install. That easy.
ALSO: What does your air filter look like?
Like many XJ's, its probably oil soaked. This comes from the CCV breather tube. You need to turn plastic portion of the tube. Rotate until the bend closest to the vavle cover is in the UP position. The idea is to create a hump in the tube.
This doesnt stop the oil getting to the filter, but alleviates alot of it.
#22
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Okay so which resistor is it? I have two on my jeep and both have their wires coming froom the same loom. One is closer to the firewall than the other, but they are only an inch or two aprt.
#23
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sounds like the same problem as me. i have a 91 two door and i was driving home and in just died. i was in about 5 inches of snow. it wont start by key but if i push start it it will run at a rough idle if i touch the gas it will stall but if i feather it it will stay running fine. has spark gettin good fuel im puzzled i have checked everything and can not get it to run
#24
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Turns out it was what looks to me like some sort of resister,that is on the drivers side fender about a foot away from the fire wall went bad.mudallday let me know about it and that you can discnnect the two wires that go to it,connect them together and it should stay running if thats the problem.sure enough it worked, now i just have to figure out what its called so i can buy a new one. Well thanks for the help.
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