Steering Play 90 high miles
01-18-2013 | 01:59 AM
#16
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Joined: Apr 2012
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From: Wisconsin
Model: Cherokee
The more common adjustment is the sector shaft- that's the one on top of the box. Slotted screw with a locknut. Be careful the steering doesn't get tight on center with this one.
01-18-2013 | 02:08 AM
#17
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Just sayen folx...your sreering box is not something to take lightly. Chuck, Pete, Gary and I all have at least 30 years experience. You make a little mistake, it could be a big mistake. Heck. An alignment shop will look at it free!
01-18-2013 | 07:02 AM
#18
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Huh? 18mm wrench and an allen.
01-18-2013 | 07:06 AM
#19
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The best way to adjust the box is on the bench with a torque wrench, but you can do it installed if you are careful.
Center the steering.
Loosen lock nut.
Hold lock nut in place, turn center screw 1/8 turn clockwise.
Hold center screw in place while tightening lock nut.
Go for a drive.
Repeat if you still have slop.
If at any time your steering stops returning to center or you feel any binding or tightness as the steering passes through center, stop and turn the adjustment counter-clockwise again. Too tight and you'll ruin the gears inside in short order.
While you have your helper, watch the point the steering shaft enters the box while helper is turning the wheel. The shaft should turn left or right, but not move back and forth, in or out of the box.
The Saginaw gears have an adjustment to fix that too, although I'm not sure your year uses the Saginaw steering gear.
You'll see a (very) large lock nut around back encircling the steering shaft connection. Remove it and you'll see an adjuster behind it, which requires a spanner wrench (or pair of needle nose) to turn. That adjustment should be turned clockwise until tight, then backed off 1/2 inch counterclockwise. It's a bearing preload adjustment....no slop but not tight either.
Center the steering.
Loosen lock nut.
Hold lock nut in place, turn center screw 1/8 turn clockwise.
Hold center screw in place while tightening lock nut.
Go for a drive.
Repeat if you still have slop.
If at any time your steering stops returning to center or you feel any binding or tightness as the steering passes through center, stop and turn the adjustment counter-clockwise again. Too tight and you'll ruin the gears inside in short order.
While you have your helper, watch the point the steering shaft enters the box while helper is turning the wheel. The shaft should turn left or right, but not move back and forth, in or out of the box.
The Saginaw gears have an adjustment to fix that too, although I'm not sure your year uses the Saginaw steering gear.
You'll see a (very) large lock nut around back encircling the steering shaft connection. Remove it and you'll see an adjuster behind it, which requires a spanner wrench (or pair of needle nose) to turn. That adjustment should be turned clockwise until tight, then backed off 1/2 inch counterclockwise. It's a bearing preload adjustment....no slop but not tight either.
01-18-2013 | 08:24 PM
#20
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CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
OK. I had a Parametric show up. I'm OK! (he brought a 12 pack and a pint of brandy). (no sh**). So..
My neighbor also jiggled the wheel for me......(after a 48hr shift)
There was a breach in the mouse "perimeter defense". The inner wall prevented a takeover. (see the screen riveted in the air box).
My neighbor also jiggled the wheel for me......(after a 48hr shift)There was a breach in the mouse "perimeter defense". The inner wall prevented a takeover. (see the screen riveted in the air box).
01-18-2013 | 08:37 PM
#21
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
So going on Radi's excellent advise. Since I'M pushen' 300K and I'm pretty sure it hasn't been touched, I went about 1/3, (2/6 ths'on the hex), 4 times. That's 1-1/3 turns.
I stopped, not because I thought I "had it" . I stopped because I made progress without messing something up.
Guys, get this. Now the steering lock works! No bull. I know there is a plate in the column that receives a pin.
I guess it moved.
(that's a 5/8 box wrench and a 3/16 Allen)
I stopped, not because I thought I "had it" . I stopped because I made progress without messing something up.
Guys, get this. Now the steering lock works! No bull. I know there is a plate in the column that receives a pin.
I guess it moved.
(that's a 5/8 box wrench and a 3/16 Allen)
01-18-2013 | 08:48 PM
#22
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
I took a crack at getting a photo of the ring at the input shaft. Looks like draining the coolant and removing the lower hose would be part of smacking that off and tightening the "goodie" underneath? Unfortunately while the parametric was here I didn't check play there.
01-18-2013 | 09:09 PM
#23
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
So I'm reporting SUCESS... I think. I have other people drive who notice the play. I'm pretty sure it's way better. 
(cherokeeforum rocks!) Radi, Highmilage,
OK NOW! according to this diagram>> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/adj...ck-bar-134455/
It's the "drag link" that has an end with a ball joint to the Pittman arm. Mine is shot. Looks like one might even fall right off leaving you with no steering. Well over 10 years of washboard and pot holes and this is all you got? With only 32 years here, Jeep rocks!
Toyota, Ford, Dodge, they can't hold a candle to this. 
So I need to find that drag link end there for the Pittman arm.
The bolts were tight Freedgr...
VV--#ES2222L--VV---?
(cherokeeforum rocks!) Radi, Highmilage, OK NOW! according to this diagram>> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/adj...ck-bar-134455/
It's the "drag link" that has an end with a ball joint to the Pittman arm. Mine is shot. Looks like one might even fall right off leaving you with no steering. Well over 10 years of washboard and pot holes and this is all you got? With only 32 years here, Jeep rocks!
Toyota, Ford, Dodge, they can't hold a candle to this. So I need to find that drag link end there for the Pittman arm.
The bolts were tight Freedgr...
VV--#ES2222L--VV---?
Last edited by DFlintstone; 01-19-2013 at 07:10 PM.
01-18-2013 | 09:24 PM
#24
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Specifically I mention that because the steering lock now engages, when it hasn't..this century...almost...and the thick plottens.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 01-18-2013 at 09:32 PM.
01-19-2013 | 02:30 AM
#27
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 5,302
Likes: 21
From: Wisconsin
Model: Cherokee
Drag link to pitman arm is ACDELCO Part # 45A0332 for your '90 and your '84.
They're the same on both ends of the drag link. (but not the same as the tie rod ends)
20MM THREAD, 4.33 IN LENGTH; LEFT HAND THREADS
01-19-2013 | 01:40 PM
#28
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 812
Likes: 1
From: Eugene, OR
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7 Stroker I6
I just got replaced mine again after not even 2 years. Moog problem solver from autozone for 15 bucks, last one I don't know what brand I think I got it on ebay or rockauto, needless to say the boot tore fast and it wore out, I'll see how moog does.
got the box right here or just ask em at the store
part #: ES2222L
got the box right here or just ask em at the store
part #: ES2222L
01-19-2013 | 02:01 PM
#29
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
01-19-2013 | 06:59 PM
#30
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 19
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
OK. I should have listened better to Radi. My "drives" were just out my gravel driveway and back.
Napa, Car Quest, and Orileies had #ES2222L as a number for the joint at the end of the Pittman arm, to the "connecting rod". (inner tie-rod end was mentioned).
As soon as I hit the black-top I felt I have it too tight. Not exactly "binding" but stiff going straight. Not right. I hope I didn't do much damage in 30 miles. Gonna' back it off right now.
*Note. If O'Reilies tells you they have a part in stock, make him go check. You might make a town trip for nothing.
I suppose I might have an ES2222L Tuesday. Prices range from $15 to about twice that. I'll probably spend $16+ at Napa.
Pretty tricky there Radi...Getting your 11:30 post in front of my 9:52!
Much thanks! But somehow I missed it.....Left hand thread there on that eh. I'll have (someone) look at that ACDELCO Part # 45A0332, just to be thorough. Dang. Watch, it will rain Tuesday.....
Napa, Car Quest, and Orileies had #ES2222L as a number for the joint at the end of the Pittman arm, to the "connecting rod". (inner tie-rod end was mentioned).
As soon as I hit the black-top I felt I have it too tight. Not exactly "binding" but stiff going straight. Not right. I hope I didn't do much damage in 30 miles. Gonna' back it off right now.
*Note. If O'Reilies tells you they have a part in stock, make him go check. You might make a town trip for nothing.
I suppose I might have an ES2222L Tuesday. Prices range from $15 to about twice that. I'll probably spend $16+ at Napa.
Pretty tricky there Radi...Getting your 11:30 post in front of my 9:52!
Much thanks! But somehow I missed it.....Left hand thread there on that eh. I'll have (someone) look at that ACDELCO Part # 45A0332, just to be thorough. Dang. Watch, it will rain Tuesday.....
Last edited by DFlintstone; 01-19-2013 at 07:02 PM.