Strange problem/ need help
#16
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
YES
I TOOK APART AND CLEANED ALL GROUNDS. AND BATTERY
sorry for the caPS... they were locked.
anyway, it's not the ground.
I think it's 2 separate issues... bad window motor.. drawing mega juice... ?
and dirty throttle body? bad gas?
I dont know...
driver door panel is off/power window unplugged.
need to unplug the pass side just in case....
It runs.. but if I floor the accelerator, it stumbles and slight pops/ not really a back fire but a nasty pop...
'
if I ease into the throttle, it will race to the top...
seems like bad gas or ignition...
new plugs/wires/cap/rotor... CPS changed nothing still ****. took the driver side kick panel off, wires going into drivers door are perfect.
not tomorrow, too many things hanging.... but soon, I;m gonna take it for a blast around the block...
I cleared the codes
so I want to see if any pop up
I TOOK APART AND CLEANED ALL GROUNDS. AND BATTERY
sorry for the caPS... they were locked.
anyway, it's not the ground.
I think it's 2 separate issues... bad window motor.. drawing mega juice... ?
and dirty throttle body? bad gas?
I dont know...
driver door panel is off/power window unplugged.
need to unplug the pass side just in case....
It runs.. but if I floor the accelerator, it stumbles and slight pops/ not really a back fire but a nasty pop...
'
if I ease into the throttle, it will race to the top...
seems like bad gas or ignition...
new plugs/wires/cap/rotor... CPS changed nothing still ****. took the driver side kick panel off, wires going into drivers door are perfect.
not tomorrow, too many things hanging.... but soon, I;m gonna take it for a blast around the block...
I cleared the codes
so I want to see if any pop up
#17
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
So,
IS there or is there NOT a fuse for the power windows on a 98 cherokee sport???
all I see is power locks 25amp
doesn't effect windows
IS there or is there NOT a fuse for the power windows on a 98 cherokee sport???
all I see is power locks 25amp
doesn't effect windows
#18
Senior Member
#19
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
#20
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Littleton, CO
Posts: 1,451
Received 260 Likes
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Year: '96
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 HO
If the window switch is shutting off the engine, I'd say there is a shorted wire from the window switch.
I guess I would take the switch panel off and look under there for anomalies. then start following wires through the door, through the rubber boot, into the kick panel. then from there on.
Maybe a component of the power window system has gone bad and it is causing the issue with an electrical short somewhere......either the switch, a wire touching the body causing the short, window lock button, etc...
Put a multimeter on the hot wire of the switch then touch a good ground and see if you have continuity. if so, thats not good.
I guess I would take the switch panel off and look under there for anomalies. then start following wires through the door, through the rubber boot, into the kick panel. then from there on.
Maybe a component of the power window system has gone bad and it is causing the issue with an electrical short somewhere......either the switch, a wire touching the body causing the short, window lock button, etc...
Put a multimeter on the hot wire of the switch then touch a good ground and see if you have continuity. if so, thats not good.
#21
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
I'm still messing with this but I think I'm closer......
Heres what I think....
First, recap.
The jeep is backfiring, running like crap. runs even worse if I touch the power window buttons.
so far,
new plugs/cap/rotor/wires Crank position sensor (royal pain in the azz) cleaned IAC valve , painstakingly took apart and cleaned every ground point under the hood.
still running like crap.
However,
I discovered something today.... The jeep runs worse and just about stalls in REVERSE.
same symptom as touching the power windows...
ALSO, if I start the jeep in nuetral and run it.... the dome light is dim.
shut the jeep off, and the dome light gets bright (normal) again.
SO, I THINK ..... something is robbing power from my ignition system .....
and the reverse lights or power windows is adding to that... to the point where it's too much draw and robbing the spark.
I originally thought it might be the alternator.... even though it's about a year old.
unplugged the power wire on the back.... and NO CHANGE.
So,
where do I go from here?
replace the coil?
it kinda looked OK... I had to take it off to clean the 2 ground connections there....
What could be robbing juice?
door panels are OFF / jeep is in nuetral sitting .... start it up, dome light dims and also the small light by the fuse box dims.....
(while it's running)
shut it off and the lights brighten right up..... Obvious draw while running...
any thoughts?
Heres what I think....
First, recap.
The jeep is backfiring, running like crap. runs even worse if I touch the power window buttons.
so far,
new plugs/cap/rotor/wires Crank position sensor (royal pain in the azz) cleaned IAC valve , painstakingly took apart and cleaned every ground point under the hood.
still running like crap.
However,
I discovered something today.... The jeep runs worse and just about stalls in REVERSE.
same symptom as touching the power windows...
ALSO, if I start the jeep in nuetral and run it.... the dome light is dim.
shut the jeep off, and the dome light gets bright (normal) again.
SO, I THINK ..... something is robbing power from my ignition system .....
and the reverse lights or power windows is adding to that... to the point where it's too much draw and robbing the spark.
I originally thought it might be the alternator.... even though it's about a year old.
unplugged the power wire on the back.... and NO CHANGE.
So,
where do I go from here?
replace the coil?
it kinda looked OK... I had to take it off to clean the 2 ground connections there....
What could be robbing juice?
door panels are OFF / jeep is in nuetral sitting .... start it up, dome light dims and also the small light by the fuse box dims.....
(while it's running)
shut it off and the lights brighten right up..... Obvious draw while running...
any thoughts?
Last edited by John T; 10-29-2022 at 03:16 PM.
#22
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
New TPS today....
New coil.
no change.
runs like crap. Put the jeep in reverse, with the clutch pushed down and it just about stalls out.
what is it about reverse?
I don't think it's the lights..... headlights and overhear light bar have no effect....
New coil.
no change.
runs like crap. Put the jeep in reverse, with the clutch pushed down and it just about stalls out.
what is it about reverse?
I don't think it's the lights..... headlights and overhear light bar have no effect....
#23
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
I disconnected what I assume is the reverse switch on the side of the tranny...
Now it doesn't die when I put it in reverse.... and no reverse lights... but still generally runs like crap...
so obviously this is an electrical problem..... where to look next?
Now it doesn't die when I put it in reverse.... and no reverse lights... but still generally runs like crap...
so obviously this is an electrical problem..... where to look next?
#24
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
for testing purposes.... Is it possible to run a separate power/Hot wire directly to the coil...? to see if this thing will run correctly?
or would that confuse the computer?
or would that confuse the computer?
#25
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
OK,
BIG NEWS for everyone quietly following along...
I am 90% sure I have found the problem.
I will report back.
BIG NEWS for everyone quietly following along...
I am 90% sure I have found the problem.
I will report back.
#28
Seasoned Member
Thread Starter
sorta.
tested fuel pressure...car off/jumped relay- 31 psi / shut it off.... bleeds to almost zero
running... 35psi
so I replaced the pump INSIDE the unit.
ran good... but had to shut it down when gas was leaking near the tank.... thought it was the quick connect line.... fitting.
decided to ditch that and use a 5/16" hose and clamp...... cut an access hole in the floor. (thank god I did)
installed tank today... started... ran good.... went back to look in acess hole and it's leaking.... turns out it's a pin hole in the pressure regulator... where the hose connects...
pulled it again....
I think I'm gonna just buy a new complete replacement unit from NAPA
the do sell just the regulator but its almost as much as a complete unit.
and I don't trust the cheap amazon/ebay crap.
anyway, thats where I'm at.
I found a wiring diagram and the power windows DO in fact intertwine with the fuel pump along with the dome light .... all of which are giving me problems...
I have some more tests in mind, but I might run the fuel pump to a dedicated relay to ignition power.
I will deal with power windows later.
I'm not tearing the entire vehicle wiring apart to search.
I bought this car new.... every ground/ and wire Ive checked so far has been flawless....
I WILL solve this.
murphys law has been kicking my azz lately... But I'm about as stubborn as that last oak leaf on the deck....
And Bruce, I'm not sure what your laughing at.
Don't forget I know where you live.
tested fuel pressure...car off/jumped relay- 31 psi / shut it off.... bleeds to almost zero
running... 35psi
so I replaced the pump INSIDE the unit.
ran good... but had to shut it down when gas was leaking near the tank.... thought it was the quick connect line.... fitting.
decided to ditch that and use a 5/16" hose and clamp...... cut an access hole in the floor. (thank god I did)
installed tank today... started... ran good.... went back to look in acess hole and it's leaking.... turns out it's a pin hole in the pressure regulator... where the hose connects...
pulled it again....
I think I'm gonna just buy a new complete replacement unit from NAPA
the do sell just the regulator but its almost as much as a complete unit.
and I don't trust the cheap amazon/ebay crap.
anyway, thats where I'm at.
I found a wiring diagram and the power windows DO in fact intertwine with the fuel pump along with the dome light .... all of which are giving me problems...
I have some more tests in mind, but I might run the fuel pump to a dedicated relay to ignition power.
I will deal with power windows later.
I'm not tearing the entire vehicle wiring apart to search.
I bought this car new.... every ground/ and wire Ive checked so far has been flawless....
I WILL solve this.
murphys law has been kicking my azz lately... But I'm about as stubborn as that last oak leaf on the deck....
And Bruce, I'm not sure what your laughing at.
Don't forget I know where you live.
Last edited by John T; 11-06-2022 at 03:16 PM.
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skeet88 (11-09-2022)
#29
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Eustis, Florida
Posts: 926
Received 286 Likes
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201 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I threw a "lol" at your comment, not your situation....
regarding "I have some more tests in mind, but I might run the fuel pump to a dedicated relay to ignition power." I not sure how that will play with the ASD circuit which energizes the fuel pump for 3 seconds before startup....I'm not an expert but knowing the ASD is controlled by the PCM I thought I would just throw this out, maybe someone else can clarify it further...anyway ...good luck and hope you get it all worked out.
regarding "I have some more tests in mind, but I might run the fuel pump to a dedicated relay to ignition power." I not sure how that will play with the ASD circuit which energizes the fuel pump for 3 seconds before startup....I'm not an expert but knowing the ASD is controlled by the PCM I thought I would just throw this out, maybe someone else can clarify it further...anyway ...good luck and hope you get it all worked out.
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skeet88 (11-09-2022)
#30
There could be a splice going bad in the harness where the windows ,fuel pump and dome light come together. Had an ‘89 YJ that had duct tape around splices in the wire harness. Good Luck sounds like you are narrowing it down. Be Safe!