Also does anyone know if unhooking the cps will change something? I read elsewhere that driving with it unhooked will of course flash a code, but if it runs smooth its the cps. By cps does that mean camshaft or crankshaft...

 

Never mind, read that wrong it was tps. Is there a easy way to check the chain?

 

No I don't think so. You will have to pull the cover. Read up on this thread. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/4-0...ocking-185070/

 

Thanks, I don't want to be a PIA to y'all but I need some help before going into another adventure like that head.

 

Yeah. Information is the most valuable possession a person can have. So ask questions. People on this page are here to help.

 

I forgot to include a bit more info. The cel for the camshaft sensor never came back after it cooled off that evening. However it started to idle rough the next time I started it, ie the next morning. The cel is gone, but it still idles rough and now lurches while driving.

 

There is either something wrong mechanically with the head, or something was done wrong putting it on.

 

If I pull the valve cover what should I check for?

 

Before yarding your engine apart do a cpmpression check on each cylinder, and do a compression loss check - checking for air escaping through the Throttle Body (Intake Valve stuck open), air escaping from the exhaust pipe (Exhaust Valve stuck open). Air escaping from the oil dipstick tube would indicte bad rings but this may not be your issue.

Edit: A bad head gasket may cause leakage between adjacent cylinders. When doing a compression check, check for a reduction in compression pressure of 50%-70%, which may indicate a bad head gasket.

 

I'll do a compression check when it stops raining here. Is there a easy way to get around removing the fuel filter? Can I plug the line? Or do I need to remove the line at all

 

No, just remove the coil wire.

 

No need to fool with the fuel lines, etc.

To eliminate fuel and ignition during the compression check, remove the ASD relay from the PDC. The ASD relay will be marked on the inside of the PDC cover.

Limit starter duty cycle to just a few minutes during the compression check. Allow it to cool down for about five minutes before cranking again.

Remove the TB air intake tube and wire the throttle plate open.

 

What about a intake manifold problem? Would a crack or hole do this as well? The reason I ask, in the midst of putting it back on it may have cracked at the rear bolt. It seemed a little weaker than the rest of it

 

Try stuffing modeling clay all around that area to see if the idle and running improves before doing a compression check.

As I have alluded to a couple of times, something happened during the head R & R to cause a problem.

 

Small update, this morning I started it with the tps unhooked, it of course idled about 1k but it ran smooth for a bit, longer than it has, but it came back. I sprayed starter fluid around the intake to see if it was cracked and if it would jump, it did and then it died. Over 1k and it died, just shut off.