I've always just used an 18mm six point socket when the chintzy covers came off.

 

lol I broke one of these in half today....ended up just drilling it.

 

Holy crap... I used a 1/2" breaker bar with my set and ended up breaking the stud... My set is about 5 years old now, must be they (Harbor) is selling the really cheap Chinese crap now days...

 

 

 

yep just drill the stud and then give it a good whack with a hammer thats how i got mine off....

 

Errrrrrr Emmett,
No disrespect but,

3/4=12/16
7/8=14/16

I assume you meant 11/16? I don't want anyone to buy the wrong socket.

Also, as pointed out earlier, if the chrome cap falls off, use a 18mm 6 point socket. With the chrome cap still on, use a 19mm or 3/4" 6point socket.

KenR

 

A helpful resolution for rust frozen and grit locked bolts and nuts.
Heat with a propane torch. Hot hot, but doesn't need to be red hot.
Stuff a wax candle into the threaded area, the wax will enter the threads.
Rock your wrench/socket loosy tighty, don't strip your nuts if you can help it.
If the hex strips, hammer on next size down socket, or use the extracter sockets, or clamp on a vice grip.
Repeat the heat n wax n wrench, heat n wax n wrench.
It often works on some very stubourn fasteners.
When you repair and reassemble the new parts, antiseize is your friend.

 

That is actually a great trick that works well! But I"m thinking his issue might be more than just being too tight. I think the threads are stripped and now it's welded on the stud.

 

Had to heat and wax some brake line nuts and caliper bleeders yesterday when replacing rotted line to the rear of the WJ yesterday. All the corroded junk came apart, even when a couple of the line nuts hex surfaces were falling apart. The heat and candle is easy and I always try it first when there is any sign of trouble.
As for that wheel nut, sounds like a drilling is required. If you hit any hard spots that are killing your drill bits, you may have to go at it with a "concrete" drill. The carbide inserts of a masonry drill will bite thru the hard spots, often the carbide will chip from the abuse, but it works if you hit a hard spot.
As for the other 19 hex nuts with the shiny outer sheild. Throw them away, go to Napa and get a solid set of 1/2-20 acorn nuts for replacement. Here they cost $1.50 each. Well worth it to avoid future problems. Torque 90 then again at 100 ft lb. Test drive, retorque at 100. If you off road, do torque check with each off road experience.

 

*
Deflate the tire & remove the valve core.

 

Watched a guy kill himself one time welding on a wheel under pressure.

 

Good advice.
I think welding on the lug nut would not have a significant heat transfer to the rim and tire, but best err (in this case de air) on the side of caution.
In the interest of due diligence, I will revise my methods for futures.

I agree, deflate, then weld.

 

This guy should not have been welding on a wheel in the first place, he was attempting to weld up a crack and it never works. And I agree with your assessment here, I have put the torch to a lot of lugnuts without worry, but it is better to be safe than sorry when you are working on a bomb.