Stronger battery
#1
CF Veteran
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: eaton ohio
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Stronger battery
so i am lookin to get a new batt to help with my winch, if i go above the stock CCA is it gonna hurt anything?
#4
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 95
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with mustang injectors
buy the best one you can afford...optima is good, a winch tends to draw the hardest load (amps) on a battery. if winchin alot you will strain a regular battery to the point where its junk and will never hold the correct amperage again, so no matter what battery you buy make sure you give it time to recharge during and after winchin
#7
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hell, CA
Posts: 2,127
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
If you have a Costco near you.. I would go there. Of all the different brands of batteries only a few companies actually make them. And the Kirkland Sig ones from costo are from one of the better companies. That and usually cheaper to the comparable brands. The one I got is 1000 CA I think.
The yellow tops are nice, but kinda spendy. Stinger batteries are really good as well.
The yellow tops are nice, but kinda spendy. Stinger batteries are really good as well.
Trending Topics
#8
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 98
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
optima's are good but the warranty really sucks. they only have a 2 year warranty and its prorated after that and its an outrageous prorate $$$$ amount to the point that by the time it is 3 years old it will cost you damn near as much in prorate fees as it would to just buy another battery, and the new battery is only good from the ORIGINAL's purchase date.
I went with a $65 "MAXX" one from walmart. its got a 3 year free replacement and prorated after that. it is the replacement size for the Xj but has more amps and cold crank amps and I figure if it even shows the slightest signs of aging in the next 3 years I will be taking it right back to walmart for a free replacement.
I went with a $65 "MAXX" one from walmart. its got a 3 year free replacement and prorated after that. it is the replacement size for the Xj but has more amps and cold crank amps and I figure if it even shows the slightest signs of aging in the next 3 years I will be taking it right back to walmart for a free replacement.
#9
Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 95
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with mustang injectors
stock alternator should be fine...GM one wire alternator is the way i would go, but its not gonna bolt right in....lil fab though and you have a nice setup, ive always wanted to junk the a/c comp. and put the alternator up top, out of deep water...since ive already been through 3 stock ones....
#10
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 3,018
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
I've heard good reports from the field on both Optima and Odyssey. No winch, but I run a Red Top - I've heard good on the use of a Yellow Top with a winch.
A couple of things to note:
1) I highly suggest a hand throttle, preferably with a friction lock. The alternator isn't capable of full output until a crankshaft speed of 1200-1300rpm or so, and you want as much out of your alternator as you can get (cuts the load on your battery.) For the same reason, start turning off accessory systems for a long pull - you're looking at a draw of 300-400A without too much trouble.
2) Consider upgrading your alternator. The more you can get from your alternator, the less you're going to draw from your battery.
3) Definitely upgrade your mains wiring - especially if you upgrade your alternator! The OEM mains are "just enough" for the stock alternator, and are going to be hard-pressed to keep up with increased supply and increased loading. I can help you there - click the link in my sig (and check around on NAXJA if you want field reports on my stuff. Or check out www.ericsxj.com, and go to, I believe, Stage 5 of his modifications. We also swapped books when his came out. I can help you with winch wiring as well...)
4) It's possible to put a second alternator in your system - I'd suggest a Delco CS-130 rigged up for "one-wire" connection (with a "self-exciting" regulator.) I don't know what year your rig is, so I can't give you a good deal of advice on just how you'd make that happen, or what complications might arise, but we can move forward if you need the help. A CS-121 has a smaller frame size, and might be easier to fit, but they're uncommon, and tend to run spendy. The CS-130 is more common (and the CS-144, while larger and able to run higher capacity, and falling between the CS-121 and CS-130 in availability, it probably won't clear the hood.)
A couple of things to note:
1) I highly suggest a hand throttle, preferably with a friction lock. The alternator isn't capable of full output until a crankshaft speed of 1200-1300rpm or so, and you want as much out of your alternator as you can get (cuts the load on your battery.) For the same reason, start turning off accessory systems for a long pull - you're looking at a draw of 300-400A without too much trouble.
2) Consider upgrading your alternator. The more you can get from your alternator, the less you're going to draw from your battery.
3) Definitely upgrade your mains wiring - especially if you upgrade your alternator! The OEM mains are "just enough" for the stock alternator, and are going to be hard-pressed to keep up with increased supply and increased loading. I can help you there - click the link in my sig (and check around on NAXJA if you want field reports on my stuff. Or check out www.ericsxj.com, and go to, I believe, Stage 5 of his modifications. We also swapped books when his came out. I can help you with winch wiring as well...)
4) It's possible to put a second alternator in your system - I'd suggest a Delco CS-130 rigged up for "one-wire" connection (with a "self-exciting" regulator.) I don't know what year your rig is, so I can't give you a good deal of advice on just how you'd make that happen, or what complications might arise, but we can move forward if you need the help. A CS-121 has a smaller frame size, and might be easier to fit, but they're uncommon, and tend to run spendy. The CS-130 is more common (and the CS-144, while larger and able to run higher capacity, and falling between the CS-121 and CS-130 in availability, it probably won't clear the hood.)
#11
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: W-PA
Posts: 3,883
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've heard good reports from the field on both Optima and Odyssey. No winch, but I run a Red Top - I've heard good on the use of a Yellow Top with a winch.
A couple of things to note:
1) I highly suggest a hand throttle, preferably with a friction lock. The alternator isn't capable of full output until a crankshaft speed of 1200-1300rpm or so, and you want as much out of your alternator as you can get (cuts the load on your battery.) For the same reason, start turning off accessory systems for a long pull - you're looking at a draw of 300-400A without too much trouble.
2) Consider upgrading your alternator. The more you can get from your alternator, the less you're going to draw from your battery.
3) Definitely upgrade your mains wiring - especially if you upgrade your alternator! The OEM mains are "just enough" for the stock alternator, and are going to be hard-pressed to keep up with increased supply and increased loading. I can help you there - click the link in my sig (and check around on NAXJA if you want field reports on my stuff. Or check out www.ericsxj.com, and go to, I believe, Stage 5 of his modifications. We also swapped books when his came out. I can help you with winch wiring as well...)
4) It's possible to put a second alternator in your system - I'd suggest a Delco CS-130 rigged up for "one-wire" connection (with a "self-exciting" regulator.) I don't know what year your rig is, so I can't give you a good deal of advice on just how you'd make that happen, or what complications might arise, but we can move forward if you need the help. A CS-121 has a smaller frame size, and might be easier to fit, but they're uncommon, and tend to run spendy. The CS-130 is more common (and the CS-144, while larger and able to run higher capacity, and falling between the CS-121 and CS-130 in availability, it probably won't clear the hood.)
A couple of things to note:
1) I highly suggest a hand throttle, preferably with a friction lock. The alternator isn't capable of full output until a crankshaft speed of 1200-1300rpm or so, and you want as much out of your alternator as you can get (cuts the load on your battery.) For the same reason, start turning off accessory systems for a long pull - you're looking at a draw of 300-400A without too much trouble.
2) Consider upgrading your alternator. The more you can get from your alternator, the less you're going to draw from your battery.
3) Definitely upgrade your mains wiring - especially if you upgrade your alternator! The OEM mains are "just enough" for the stock alternator, and are going to be hard-pressed to keep up with increased supply and increased loading. I can help you there - click the link in my sig (and check around on NAXJA if you want field reports on my stuff. Or check out www.ericsxj.com, and go to, I believe, Stage 5 of his modifications. We also swapped books when his came out. I can help you with winch wiring as well...)
4) It's possible to put a second alternator in your system - I'd suggest a Delco CS-130 rigged up for "one-wire" connection (with a "self-exciting" regulator.) I don't know what year your rig is, so I can't give you a good deal of advice on just how you'd make that happen, or what complications might arise, but we can move forward if you need the help. A CS-121 has a smaller frame size, and might be easier to fit, but they're uncommon, and tend to run spendy. The CS-130 is more common (and the CS-144, while larger and able to run higher capacity, and falling between the CS-121 and CS-130 in availability, it probably won't clear the hood.)
This is more of a setup a comp rig would have. A regular off road xj that uses the winch a couple times a month will do just fine the way it is but with a strong battery. I had a milemarker 9k on my ex wrangler and ran a die hard battery. We would abuse that winch probably 2 or 3 times more than most people would and everything held up just fine. Occasionally on long pulls, the battery would go down but we would wait for a while for it to recharge before continuing. That happened like twice but it pulled...and pulled....and pulled some more for 3 years. the die hard battery just kept on ticking for as long as i had it.
Oh by the way, the alternator was the original, 7 years old.
#12
CF Veteran
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 3,018
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
This is more of a setup a comp rig would have. A regular off road xj that uses the winch a couple times a month will do just fine the way it is but with a strong battery. I had a milemarker 9k on my ex wrangler and ran a die hard battery. We would abuse that winch probably 2 or 3 times more than most people would and everything held up just fine. Occasionally on long pulls, the battery would go down but we would wait for a while for it to recharge before continuing. That happened like twice but it pulled...and pulled....and pulled some more for 3 years. the die hard battery just kept on ticking for as long as i had it.
Oh by the way, the alternator was the original, 7 years old.
Oh by the way, the alternator was the original, 7 years old.
#13
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: W-PA
Posts: 3,883
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
True - I didn't say they were mandatory, not by any stretch! Just that it would be helpful to apply one or more of them (I'd do the hand throttle first, then think about the upgraded alternator next. But, the hand throttle will still help to take a load off of your battery... And it would help cut recharge time!)
#14
Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: kankakee,il
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 30 over 4.0
i did the alt. up grade off of a 98 dodge ram 1500(i think 98) its a perfect fit and has lot more amp out put. prices very got mine at advance auto about 20$ more than a stock. with a stock battery.
Last edited by hood81; 06-27-2010 at 06:52 PM. Reason: wrong thread.
#15
Honorary Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Gilbert AZ/Las Cruces NM
Posts: 8,135
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
12 Posts
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 upgraded
the optimas are really great batteries!
If you really have some money to spend, Kenetik batteries are amazing. I have seen one of their smallest batteries power a winch no problem. To get one that is the factory size will be about $600-$800 however.... But its always an option!
btw , they were designed for car audio but have many other uses.
If you really have some money to spend, Kenetik batteries are amazing. I have seen one of their smallest batteries power a winch no problem. To get one that is the factory size will be about $600-$800 however.... But its always an option!
btw , they were designed for car audio but have many other uses.