struggling 1st time Cherokee XJ owner HELP!
#1
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Model: Cherokee (XJ)
struggling 1st time Cherokee XJ owner HELP!
Help!!! Bought a Jeep Cherokee for son’s 1st car project car for us to work on. Did not run when we bought previous owner did not have the original ECM do to it being bad. 1st thing I ordered installed...No start! Then I had to install new distributor finally started but running very rough! Missing coughing etc. replaced muffler and Cat. Flow master. Still runs rough!!!😡😡 replaces Map, TPS,IAS,Cam,& crank sensor’s still runs Rough and stalling!! Getting a P1393 code cam &crank code.😡😡😡 went and bought another Cps it started.... sounds good very smooth....STALLED!!!!! Won’t start !!!!! I am out of ideas and patience have to get this running for son!!! Gets license in 2 weeks!! I was thinking of getting OEM CPS from dealership to see if that fix’s!!
HELP Please. Frustrated Dad!!
HELP Please. Frustrated Dad!!
#2
You will definitely want to use OEM sensors for the crank and cam. The cheap ones are cheap for a reason. If you can't get OEM (getting harder to get from a dealer), NAPA/Echlin brand would be my second choice. If a dealer won't or can't get the OEM one for you, you can find them on eBay. Sounds like you are close. Good luck.
#3
My cheep non OEM CPS that I bought off ebay two years ago so far working fine. In fact I got two for $20.00. I have a spare now. It's your money.
An aftermarket CPS would fix the issue if the CPS was your issue. It may be temporary but it would still fix the problem in the near term. I suspect the issue is not your CPS.
What year XJ?
An aftermarket CPS would fix the issue if the CPS was your issue. It may be temporary but it would still fix the problem in the near term. I suspect the issue is not your CPS.
What year XJ?
Last edited by jpk; 09-19-2018 at 10:25 PM.
#5
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: I6 4.0L
Year would have to be 96-99 to have both a distributor and OBD2.
I would say that there seem to be a lot of problems with the distributor indexing - but generally these seem to be post-engine-rebuild and there's no starting and running for any length of time.
Definitely make sure it's got a Mopar CPS - if for nothing else to be confident that it's functional.
Another thing to check is to make sure all the wiring and grounds are in good shape. The CPS harness is quite close to the exhaust pipe, there are grounds that need to be clean and tight.
How is fuel pressure? On a 97+ it needs to be 49psi +- 5, on a 96 it's in the 30's (not sure of the exact spec).
I would say that there seem to be a lot of problems with the distributor indexing - but generally these seem to be post-engine-rebuild and there's no starting and running for any length of time.
Definitely make sure it's got a Mopar CPS - if for nothing else to be confident that it's functional.
Another thing to check is to make sure all the wiring and grounds are in good shape. The CPS harness is quite close to the exhaust pipe, there are grounds that need to be clean and tight.
How is fuel pressure? On a 97+ it needs to be 49psi +- 5, on a 96 it's in the 30's (not sure of the exact spec).
#6
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If you plan on helping your son keep this XJ on the road you should become very familiar with how to test for fuel pressure and presence of spark (ignition). PatHenry was correct to recommend testing the fuel pressure. That is your next step. Some will say you can borrow a fuel pressure gauge from a local parts store (in my area I can't). Regardless, I would recommend getting one of your own. You will use it from time to time and it will be worth having. Most 96s will have 49psi +- 5 fuel pressure.
If the vehicle warms up for about 2-5 minutes and THEN stalls I would be apt to suspect your upstream O2 sensor. If it stalls quickly, and sometimes doesn't start, I would also suspect an old/failed/dirt IAC (idle air controller).
Things you should get if you don't already having them:
OBD2 scanner (they work with your phone and can be had for $20 from amazon - look for the BAFX brand). This is assuming your 96 is an OBD2 model (some of the early year 96s were not), if it is OBD2 it will have a port by your left shin just under the dash panel).
Fuel pressure gauge
Capacitance Spark Indicator (a small pen shaped object that will show presence of ignition spark by simply placing it next to the spark plug or coil wires - can be found at Advance, Autozone, etc).
If it runs smooth for a while THEN stalls you can rule out spark plug wire order and distributor indexing problems.
If the vehicle warms up for about 2-5 minutes and THEN stalls I would be apt to suspect your upstream O2 sensor. If it stalls quickly, and sometimes doesn't start, I would also suspect an old/failed/dirt IAC (idle air controller).
Things you should get if you don't already having them:
OBD2 scanner (they work with your phone and can be had for $20 from amazon - look for the BAFX brand). This is assuming your 96 is an OBD2 model (some of the early year 96s were not), if it is OBD2 it will have a port by your left shin just under the dash panel).
Fuel pressure gauge
Capacitance Spark Indicator (a small pen shaped object that will show presence of ignition spark by simply placing it next to the spark plug or coil wires - can be found at Advance, Autozone, etc).
If it runs smooth for a while THEN stalls you can rule out spark plug wire order and distributor indexing problems.
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