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Old 11-04-2010 | 09:17 AM
  #31  
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hit harder.
Old 11-04-2010 | 09:25 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by dukie564
you're beating on the wrong part, especially for anyone trying to re-use their hub.

Use chisel and BFG as shown, work your way around the hub.
I wasn't going to reuse the unit so it did not need to be saved. The point of the picture was to show how much beating it took to get the hub off! I know what a BFH is, but not a BFG
Old 11-04-2010 | 09:30 AM
  #33  
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oh ****...that's what i meant. Brain - Finger communication error
Old 11-04-2010 | 10:24 AM
  #34  
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I had a hell of a time getting mine out on my 94, even trying to use the old socket extension / steering wheel trick.

I got mine out by using an old dull hatchet and a hammer (yes I know, this isn't the proper function of a hatchet). Stuck the head of the hatchet in between the hub assembly and the dust cover, then whacked the back of it with the hammer to drive it in a bit.

Then I hit the side of it with the hammer to drive the hub out a bit. Then, I just worked my way around it with the hatchet until it fell out.
Old 11-04-2010 | 10:26 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by draperndt
You don't want to buy new bolts. I think I paid about $15 for one bolt because I smashed the head. Make sure you don't ruin all three.
They are expensive, but I think official Chrysler list on them is like $7.40. I just had to buy 3 a few weeks ago because the threads were effed up and wouldn't go back in. Luckily, I had a relative get me employee discount... still over $4 each.
Old 11-04-2010 | 10:32 AM
  #36  
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I carry a complete spare set of bolts with me, that all have smashed up heads....those are my "beater bolts"
Old 11-04-2010 | 11:19 AM
  #37  
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I'll have to get a video of this done for you guys. Here's a video on an explorer one,with us using a puller. You can probably apply some of this to the Cherokee fix.
Hope this helps
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=http:...?v=vHzgw8vnYg8
Old 11-04-2010 | 11:36 AM
  #38  
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I had very good success with a 3 jaw puller and it was even a Harbor Freight special. I was impressed that the jaws were still straight when I was done.. I agree with the antisieze on the new one when installing it.
Old 11-04-2010 | 11:37 AM
  #39  
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DO NOT use one of those 3 jaw pullers. They have a habit of destroying the hub bearings and even worse the differential gears.

Last edited by dukie564; 11-04-2010 at 12:13 PM.
Old 11-04-2010 | 11:39 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by jwb4786
Kind of on the same topic, I have a 98 Cherokee that I need to replace the front passenger side bearing. Does anyone know if I can simply replace the bearing or do I need to replace the whole hub assembly? Thanks for your help!
The whole assembly must be placed.
Old 11-04-2010 | 11:39 AM
  #41  
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wtf are you using to push against with the center bolt/driver of the 3 jaw puller? I sure hope to God you're not using the stub shaft...that's no bueno impact on the gear set, and it just plain won't work if you have a bad ujoint.
Old 11-04-2010 | 11:45 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by DeathRanger
Hey guys I need some advice. '89 cherokee, bought the complete hub assembly to replace a bad wheel bearing. Trying to get the old one out and it is not budging.

Found a DIY online somewhere and removed everything that attaches the assembly to the knuckle. Tried to use an extension in the hole and turn the wheel to push it out, this did nothing. Tried hammering with a cold chisel, also absolutely nothing. The brake shield is hammered and the assembly has large dents into it on the edges (where it meets the dust shield/knuckle) from trying to hammer the chisel in between.

Is there a better way to get these off? A friend said they used some puller tool but I don't know what that is for something this big. Going to try some serious heat this week and more pounding, but getting frustrated pounding away and having nothing happen...
No real better way. just different. first use lots of PBB I sacrificed one mounting bolt screwed in 5-6 threads and wen to town with a hammer. same on the other two. took a while but they gave in. X2 on the anti-seize on reassembly.
her
Old 11-04-2010 | 11:57 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by JeepCoMJ
wtf are you using to push against with the center bolt/driver of the 3 jaw puller? I sure hope to God you're not using the stub shaft...that's no bueno impact on the gear set, and it just plain won't work if you have a bad ujoint.
Ive done that method many times on rusty jeeps from the north, by far the easiest way and ive only ever had one bearing pull apart on me. Your not hitting the gears, just putting pressure against them.

I usually put as much pressure on 3 jaw puller as i can and start with a chisel and hammer around the edges, then tighten the puller then more chisel. Works pretty well and ive never had anything bad happen those jeeps, even the bearing i pulled apart and reused about 15K miles ago
Old 11-04-2010 | 12:18 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by JeepCoMJ
wtf are you using to push against with the center bolt/driver of the 3 jaw puller? I sure hope to God you're not using the stub shaft...that's no bueno impact on the gear set, and it just plain won't work if you have a bad ujoint.
I totally agree. if i saw someone using one of those on my 4x4 live axle, i'd have to ***** slap them with a baseball bat. Maybe if it was a c-clip axle or cv axle where the shaft won't slide in and out, but NEVER use one of these on a non c-clip live axle. They are meant for cars and 2wd front hubs, not 4x4s
Old 11-04-2010 | 02:00 PM
  #45  
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I'm pretty sure the axle just pushs against the center pin in the Diff, so its not that big of a deal


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